'07 6.0 Super Duty Revival - Page 6 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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'07 6.0 Super Duty Revival

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  #76  
Old 09-08-2018, 08:00 PM
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WOW! I can’t believe what some people do
 
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  #77  
Old 09-08-2018, 08:56 PM
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Yeah. Part of me wants to rescue this poor fella, but the other part of me wants to get it going and then move on.

No dice on the batteries today as owner is out of town, but I replaced the battery terminals and cleaned up the wire using warm water/baking soda mixture. I will grease these once the new batteries arrive.
 
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  #78  
Old 09-14-2018, 05:05 PM
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Got fresh batteries and the truck now successfully turns over as it should, but doesn't fire up.

Cleared all the codes after replacing a few toasted fuses and all I get now is the Door Buzzer code.

I wanted to see if I was getting fuel up to the bowl in the motor, but a cheap cap (despite the advice I was given here and relayed to the actual owner) was given to me, not even torqued down to the specified 14Nm torque, and I can't get it off with a socket or a wrench!! A little miffed with the whole thing, but I will look at it either tomorrow, Sunday, or Monday.

What else should I look into? Fuel is fresh, but only about 5 gallons worth was put in. Pump is new along with a new harness.
 
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  #79  
Old 09-14-2018, 08:08 PM
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It could take it awhile, several minutes since the HPO system was open before you got to it. Hit in in 20-30 second intervals for 6-8 tries (it'll be chugging by then and need the batteries charged). It's also normal to throw a code/CEL from cranking long enough to purge the system.

If you didn't mess with it, pulling the IPR might end up happening. It can fail if too much garbage gets to it and breaks the filter screen.
 
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  #80  
Old 09-14-2018, 08:30 PM
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That could be. I'm hoping the system just needs to purge and prime and that's all I'm dealing with. I know HPOP failures are rare on these, but I've not ruled it out. I'm hoping injector tips haven't suffered any damage (water in fuel after all this time?) The IPR was missing, so I couldn't see if there were any shavings or metal chunks on it (another sign of potential HPOP gone toast).

I'm going to eat the cost and pick up the proper filter cap from Ford (do they sell the reversible socket bits for the oil/filter caps too?) and crack the mini filter again just to check it out. It was bone dry, so any fuel in it indicates the pump is working as it should.

Thank you for the insight so far, Bryan, I'm hoping I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
 
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  #81  
Old 09-15-2018, 01:47 PM
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Went out to the truck today and hooked up my OBDII connector to run the added PIDs for the FICM Sync, IPR, IPC, and HPOP.

HPOP is working, as it's going up to around 1400psi+ and stays well above 500psi until I stop turning the motor over.

IPC Voltage is a .3V with the Key On, seems reasonable if the value should be around .25V. Hovers around 1.5-1.6V when cranking.

FICM FMP sitting nicely at 48V, and never drops below 45V while cranking (this is a brand new unit from Sinister Diesel)/

IPR Duty Cycle reads 14.7% with Key On, and never passed 50% when cranking. Seems good there.

FICM Sync stays at 0! I've read that a faulty CPS or twisted CPS wiring can cause this, but I'm getting a signal at the tach when cranking. Could twisted wires still be the culprit?

I still have a TBC notice and a CEL, so I need to get my hands on something that can read Ford Diesel specific codes. Any suggestions? I'm familiar with running VMWare and the like as my MacBook is used to work on my 2008 BMW Z4 running BMWs diagnostic software INPA and a few others.
 
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  #82  
Old 09-15-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Azryael View Post
Went out to the truck today and hooked up my OBDII connector to run the added PIDs for the FICM Sync, IPR, IPC, and HPOP.

HPOP is working, as it's going up to around 1400psi+ and stays well above 500psi until I stop turning the motor over.

IPC Voltage is a .3V with the Key On, seems reasonable if the value should be around .25V. Hovers around 1.5-1.6V when cranking.

FICM FMP sitting nicely at 48V, and never drops below 45V while cranking (this is a brand new unit from Sinister Diesel)/

IPR Duty Cycle reads 14.7% with Key On, and never passed 50% when cranking. Seems good there.

FICM Sync stays at 0! I've read that a faulty CPS or twisted CPS wiring can cause this, but I'm getting a signal at the tach when cranking. Could twisted wires still be the culprit?
The portion highlighted in bold red is the cause of your no-start. If you are getting correct engine RPM readings, your CKP sensor is not faulty. You likely have a faulty CMP sensor, and/or wiring concern to the CMP sensor, or the crank trigger wheel has shifted on the crank (LEAST likely scenario). In plain English. the FICM and PCM aren't talking to each other, so it doesn't know WHEN to fire the injectors even though it has the correct pressures present.
 
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  #83  
Old 09-15-2018, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
The portion highlighted in bold red is the cause of your no-start. If you are getting correct engine RPM readings, your CKP sensor is not faulty. You likely have a faulty CMP sensor, and/or wiring concern to the CMP sensor, or the crank trigger wheel has shifted on the crank (LEAST likely scenario). In plain English. the FICM and PCM aren't talking to each other, so it doesn't know WHEN to fire the injectors even though it has the correct pressures present.
Correct. It's my understanding that the FICM relies on both the crank and cam position sensors to know what the correct timing is to fire the injectors.

i'm not sure what the "correct" RPM readings are in this case, just that the needles moves to somewhere below the first tick mark (had to run inside from pouring rain, so can't do the math at what each tick represents). I will experiment with the wiring once it stops raining and finally dries.
 
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  #84  
Old 09-15-2018, 03:37 PM
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I'm going to get FORscan running on my machine so I can go out tomorrow and run a test on the injectors. I get a feeling that the codes I can't see yet are P2614 and P2617 for both the cam and the crank, and it's likely that one or more of the injectors may have an issue. Really hoping they don't, but I need to be sure.
 
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  #85  
Old 09-15-2018, 03:58 PM
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Have you tried attempting to light it off with some Brake Parts cleaner (not ether) into the intake manifold to see if it'll catch? If it's been sitting for a while, you are likely bound to have some injectors with sticky spool valves.
 
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  #86  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:05 PM
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The advice I've always been given was to avoid using anything be it ether, brake, or carb cleaner, when dealing with glow plugs. As of right now, I've not tried it. I'm back at the house putting FORScan on my laptop to either go back out tonight or do it tomorrow.

I think I'm going to invest in the AutoEnginuity tool with the Ford expansion, as I see myself getting asked to do more work, and my lady has herself a 2015 Ford Escape.
 
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  #87  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Azryael View Post

I see myself getting asked to do more work, and my lady has herself a 2015 Ford Escape.
With which engine? Hopefully not the dreaded 1.6L engine.
 
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  #88  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
With which engine? Hopefully not the dreaded 1.6L engine.
I believe it's the 1.5L. I've not really looked at it, to be honest, haha. I wasn't involved in the purchasing either, so I wasn't there to advise for or against. Looks like a solid little vehicle, though.

I've read all about the 1.6L firestarter when those recalls came out a few years back, but I totally forgot about it. Didn't they recall more last year?
 
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  #89  
Old 09-15-2018, 08:56 PM
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Got FORScan running and was able to run the test on the injectors. They all click, but #2 is a consistent weak click, and #3 is a strong/weak click that cycles that way intermittently. They all click through all three tests, however, and I ran the test a handful of times to confirm my results.

FORScan actually pulled some codes that the Torque Pro app could not.

Code P2132 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch F Circuit Low Input --- This is probably lower batt voltage due to me cranking so often earlier. I've got it on a charger again because code B1318 popped up again too.

Code P2614 - Camshaft Position Output Circuit / Open --- So it seems I've found my culprit and you were right! I'm glad it's this and not any of the injectors, though I'll be performing the test once again to see if there is a change in those two injectors after (if) I get it successfully started.
 
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  #90  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Azryael View Post
I believe it's the 1.5L. I've not really looked at it, to be honest, haha. I wasn't involved in the purchasing either, so I wasn't there to advise for or against. Looks like a solid little vehicle, though.
Oh God, I'm just in the midst of long blocking a 1.5L on a 2017 Escape right now. This one was blowing white smoke out the tailpipe. Cooling system was bone dry. Another dealer already replaced the intake manifold and charge air cooler for the same complaint. When I drained the crankcase, it was full of oil/coolant mixture.

Originally Posted by Azrayel View Post
I've read all about the 1.6L firestarter when those recalls came out a few years back, but I totally forgot about it. Didn't they recall more last year?
That would be the 13S12 recall you are referring to for the '13 model year Escapes with the 1.6L engine. The new recall, 17S09 now includes all '14 model year Escapes, Fusions, Transit Connects and Fiesta STs equipped with the 1.6L Ecoboost engines for a similar modification to the one done under the 13S12 campaign.
 
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