Help driving a 1964 f250 4 speed with granny gear
#16
Suggest check the clutch pedal adjustment, there should be no need to double clutch?
Posting link of clutch assembly and possible info? Issue comes up on occasion; suggest run and advanced search on topic and narrow field to the 61-66 forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...disengage.html
Posting link of clutch assembly and possible info? Issue comes up on occasion; suggest run and advanced search on topic and narrow field to the 61-66 forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...disengage.html
#17
Warranty Plate TRANS code F = 1961/64 Borg-Warner T-98 4 Speed. Look closely, because the F may be mixed in with the previous BODY code or the following AXLE code.
If there's no TRANS code, the DSO code will contain 6 numbers denoting a Domestic Special Order. This means that whatever trans was installed was not an RPO (Regular Production Order).
So, it will not be a T-98 that is synchronized in 2nd/3rd/4th gear.
Of course, by now, the syncro brass blocker rings are probably worn, so the trans could grind in any gear. Double clutching will solve the problem, that is if you know how to do it.
If there's no TRANS code, the DSO code will contain 6 numbers denoting a Domestic Special Order. This means that whatever trans was installed was not an RPO (Regular Production Order).
So, it will not be a T-98 that is synchronized in 2nd/3rd/4th gear.
Of course, by now, the syncro brass blocker rings are probably worn, so the trans could grind in any gear. Double clutching will solve the problem, that is if you know how to do it.
I found the small metal tag. It looks like it reads cp-ce-ea . Directly below that is 224716 and then a small logo. From the cab I can see 224715 on the top of the trans and the round metal plate towards the rear wheels has 221408. Will these help identify it?
#18
The case number seems to indicate a Clark 250V-13, 250V-18 or 251VO-18
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups..._apmt-0069.pdf
Go to page #3 and it's the first 3 rows in the CASE column.
Chad
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups..._apmt-0069.pdf
Go to page #3 and it's the first 3 rows in the CASE column.
Chad
#19
The 251VO-18 is the only overdrive of the 3 listed so if you get it into high gear and can figure out your engine RPM, then given the trucks rear axle ratio and tire size it would be possible to do a calculation to determine if you have overdrive. One way to do it, anyway, without pulling the transmission out of the truck.
Chad
Chad
#20
Suggest check the clutch pedal adjustment, there should be no need to double clutch?
Posting link of clutch assembly and possible info? Issue comes up on occasion; suggest run and advanced search on topic and narrow field to the 61-66 forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...disengage.html
Posting link of clutch assembly and possible info? Issue comes up on occasion; suggest run and advanced search on topic and narrow field to the 61-66 forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...disengage.html
#21
As previously stated, it does look like a Clark.
IIRC, the 250/251 Clarks are not synchronized in any gear.
If this is the case, you are going to have to learn how to drive truck.
As a daily Clark driver, I will give you this for advise:
Use the clutch to start from a stop and NEVER use it while moving.
Once you get the hang of it, you will get along fine.
If you try to clutch it every shift, you will hate it.
IIRC, the 250/251 Clarks are not synchronized in any gear.
If this is the case, you are going to have to learn how to drive truck.
As a daily Clark driver, I will give you this for advise:
Use the clutch to start from a stop and NEVER use it while moving.
Once you get the hang of it, you will get along fine.
If you try to clutch it every shift, you will hate it.
#22
#23
As previously stated, it does look like a Clark.
IIRC, the 250/251 Clarks are not synchronized in any gear.
If this is the case, you are going to have to learn how to drive truck.
As a daily Clark driver, I will give you this for advise:
Use the clutch to start from a stop and NEVER use it while moving.
Once you get the hang of it, you will get along fine.
If you try to clutch it every shift, you will hate it.
IIRC, the 250/251 Clarks are not synchronized in any gear.
If this is the case, you are going to have to learn how to drive truck.
As a daily Clark driver, I will give you this for advise:
Use the clutch to start from a stop and NEVER use it while moving.
Once you get the hang of it, you will get along fine.
If you try to clutch it every shift, you will hate it.
I'll start reading up on how to shift without the clutch. But any basic direction/advice you can give?
#24
driving without clutch
I had a B81 Mack dump truck with a 20 speed quadraplex "crash box" transmission that had two sticks to shuffle all those gears around. If I had to kick that killer clutch twice for every shift I would have been unable to walk. You are a slave to the tachometer, if the engine speed is not right the thing is going to grind or not go into gear. Getting stuck out of gear while going down hill is exciting. The technique is when the necessity to change gears is perceived start to release the throttle. When the torque comes off the opposing . gears they will slide into neutral Then throttle the engine up or down as described above and the stick will slide into the next gear up or down. This is much easier than an automobile or small truck as you only n
eed one foot to drive it unless you come to a complete stop.
eed one foot to drive it unless you come to a complete stop.
#25
#26
Ole dog just leaned a new trick:
#27
What you guys are talking about shifting with out the clutch a non-synchronized trany is called floating the gears, other wise you have to double clutch.
You should be able to Youtube floating gears to see how it's done.
Yes I do it for work on a 10 speed but also have used a 13 sp & 9 sp.
Dave ----
You should be able to Youtube floating gears to see how it's done.
Yes I do it for work on a 10 speed but also have used a 13 sp & 9 sp.
Dave ----
#29
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