I lost my transmission (E4OD) today
#46
05-27-2018, 01:57 PM
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I always wished someone would do a 100% complete,step by step,illustrated E4OD/4R100 disassembly and overhaul procedure and post it here.An E4OD for dummies guide if you will.Trans shops probably are happy there isn't one lol but man,if we could all reman our own auto's it would be cool.I did a C6 back when I was in high school.Don't recall most of it anymore though.
I have a spare E4OD that needs an inspection/rebuild after I finish this one. Maybe if I can get a real camera and some cooler weather, I can make a video guide.
#47
05-29-2018, 03:04 PM
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1992 E4OD, continuing saga of a blown tc
I started out with the unknown. My trans quit, I wasn’t sure if it was all junk or what. When I drained the fluid and got the pan off, it was full of metal bits. So I started removing my trans. I got everything out of the way, ready to remove it. Then I noticed my tranny jack plate was way too small to carry this trans so I built a jig on the jack to carry the trans.
So now I’m ready, except I can’t break the mounting bolts loose. I can’t even reach them on the left side. The exhaust was replaced and it was run very tight next to the trans blocking access. No problem, with 3 feet of extension I got it loose.
I now have the trans off the engine. But now with the jack down and the jig I built to carry the trans the whole mess now sits 4 inches higher than without the jig which means I have to jack the truck up to the rafters to get the trans out from under the truck! So I try jacking up the front of the truck but my jack can’t do it. It’s too light duty! Next idea besides a new jack, I’ll jack up the rear of the truck. This actually worked fine. The back bumper is up to my chest but it worked.
I’ve got the trans out from under the truck now, I remove the torque converter and noticed when I tilted it it sounded like a box of nuts and bolts rattling around. I looked into the tc and the splines were there, they looked fine except they were on end with a lot of other bits scattered around! Now I know what failed, the tc. I disassembled the trans, there was metal shavings and metal dust throughout the trans but no other parts looked bad. All of the steels were clean with no discoloring and very little wear.
I have only put about 5000 miles on this truck since I got it and I was told it had a tranny rebuild less than 20,000 miles earlier. All the parts inside this trans look good, the tc just let go. The moral to this story, don’t go cheap on a rebuild. Don’t use a stock tc when it is a known weak spot. Upgrade to anything better.
I am replacing all the friction disks. They look clean and new but they have metal flakes imbedded in them. I am also having trouble getting the planetarys clean. I think it will be easier to replace them than working on getting them clean.
My next struggle will be to determine what upgrades have been made so I get the correct replacement parts.
Rod
So now I’m ready, except I can’t break the mounting bolts loose. I can’t even reach them on the left side. The exhaust was replaced and it was run very tight next to the trans blocking access. No problem, with 3 feet of extension I got it loose.
I now have the trans off the engine. But now with the jack down and the jig I built to carry the trans the whole mess now sits 4 inches higher than without the jig which means I have to jack the truck up to the rafters to get the trans out from under the truck! So I try jacking up the front of the truck but my jack can’t do it. It’s too light duty! Next idea besides a new jack, I’ll jack up the rear of the truck. This actually worked fine. The back bumper is up to my chest but it worked.
I’ve got the trans out from under the truck now, I remove the torque converter and noticed when I tilted it it sounded like a box of nuts and bolts rattling around. I looked into the tc and the splines were there, they looked fine except they were on end with a lot of other bits scattered around! Now I know what failed, the tc. I disassembled the trans, there was metal shavings and metal dust throughout the trans but no other parts looked bad. All of the steels were clean with no discoloring and very little wear.
I have only put about 5000 miles on this truck since I got it and I was told it had a tranny rebuild less than 20,000 miles earlier. All the parts inside this trans look good, the tc just let go. The moral to this story, don’t go cheap on a rebuild. Don’t use a stock tc when it is a known weak spot. Upgrade to anything better.
I am replacing all the friction disks. They look clean and new but they have metal flakes imbedded in them. I am also having trouble getting the planetarys clean. I think it will be easier to replace them than working on getting them clean.
My next struggle will be to determine what upgrades have been made so I get the correct replacement parts.
Rod
#48
05-29-2018, 03:25 PM
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
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I started out with the unknown. My trans quit, I wasn’t sure if it was all junk or what. When I drained the fluid and got the pan off, it was full of metal bits. So I started removing my trans. I got everything out of the way, ready to remove it. Then I noticed my tranny jack plate was way too small to carry this trans so I built a jig on the jack to carry the trans.
So now I’m ready, except I can’t break the mounting bolts loose. I can’t even reach them on the left side. The exhaust was replaced and it was run very tight next to the trans blocking access. No problem, with 3 feet of extension I got it loose.
I now have the trans off the engine. But now with the jack down and the jig I built to carry the trans the whole mess now sits 4 inches higher than without the jig which means I have to jack the truck up to the rafters to get the trans out from under the truck! So I try jacking up the front of the truck but my jack can’t do it. It’s too light duty! Next idea besides a new jack, I’ll jack up the rear of the truck. This actually worked fine. The back bumper is up to my chest but it worked.
I’ve got the trans out from under the truck now, I remove the torque converter and noticed when I tilted it it sounded like a box of nuts and bolts rattling around. I looked into the tc and the splines were there, they looked fine except they were on end with a lot of other bits scattered around! Now I know what failed, the tc. I disassembled the trans, there was metal shavings and metal dust throughout the trans but no other parts looked bad. All of the steels were clean with no discoloring and very little wear.
I have only put about 5000 miles on this truck since I got it and I was told it had a tranny rebuild less than 20,000 miles earlier. All the parts inside this trans look good, the tc just let go. The moral to this story, don’t go cheap on a rebuild. Don’t use a stock tc when it is a known weak spot. Upgrade to anything better.
I am replacing all the friction disks. They look clean and new but they have metal flakes imbedded in them. I am also having trouble getting the planetarys clean. I think it will be easier to replace them than working on getting them clean.
My next struggle will be to determine what upgrades have been made so I get the correct replacement parts.
Rod
So now I’m ready, except I can’t break the mounting bolts loose. I can’t even reach them on the left side. The exhaust was replaced and it was run very tight next to the trans blocking access. No problem, with 3 feet of extension I got it loose.
I now have the trans off the engine. But now with the jack down and the jig I built to carry the trans the whole mess now sits 4 inches higher than without the jig which means I have to jack the truck up to the rafters to get the trans out from under the truck! So I try jacking up the front of the truck but my jack can’t do it. It’s too light duty! Next idea besides a new jack, I’ll jack up the rear of the truck. This actually worked fine. The back bumper is up to my chest but it worked.
I’ve got the trans out from under the truck now, I remove the torque converter and noticed when I tilted it it sounded like a box of nuts and bolts rattling around. I looked into the tc and the splines were there, they looked fine except they were on end with a lot of other bits scattered around! Now I know what failed, the tc. I disassembled the trans, there was metal shavings and metal dust throughout the trans but no other parts looked bad. All of the steels were clean with no discoloring and very little wear.
I have only put about 5000 miles on this truck since I got it and I was told it had a tranny rebuild less than 20,000 miles earlier. All the parts inside this trans look good, the tc just let go. The moral to this story, don’t go cheap on a rebuild. Don’t use a stock tc when it is a known weak spot. Upgrade to anything better.
I am replacing all the friction disks. They look clean and new but they have metal flakes imbedded in them. I am also having trouble getting the planetarys clean. I think it will be easier to replace them than working on getting them clean.
My next struggle will be to determine what upgrades have been made so I get the correct replacement parts.
Rod
Same situation as mine. My frictions had some tooth damage and some mild burns but none of them were bare or close to it.
As for cleaning the planetaries, use brake parts cleaner. disassemble everything and give it a good hose down with brake cleaner. I usually go through a case of cleaner per transmission. Only ever did a Mercedes transmission before. Don't forget to disassemble and clean the valve body, too.
#49
06-05-2018, 11:16 AM
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#50
06-05-2018, 09:12 PM
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Well, GOOD NEWS! I finished it up this evening and took her out for a spin. Everything works as it should. TC lockup is much more noticeable as are the shifts. I attribute that to the TransGo Tugger kit. The shifts are not neck snapping and you can tell the accumulators are doing their job. With the sift kit installed, the shifts are now more like a 2-stage shift: bump,bump. I think that might be due to the new stacked spring train in the accumulators.
Reverse and drive are not harsh when they engage and they engage almost immediately. Less than half a second to go from neutral to moving without the brake applied.
Light acceleration shifts smoothly, almost like stock but once you get past 1800RPM, the next shift is firmer.
I'm very pleased with myself and the outcome of this project. It took a lot of patience, attention to detail and organization but I proved to myself that I have those skills.
Next to finish is the auxillary cooler, trans temp gauge and build a better dipstick tube. The Banks tube sucks eggs. I'm thinking maybe a Econoline tube and modify to fit. I need something longer and able to get around the turbo pipes.
Reverse and drive are not harsh when they engage and they engage almost immediately. Less than half a second to go from neutral to moving without the brake applied.
Light acceleration shifts smoothly, almost like stock but once you get past 1800RPM, the next shift is firmer.
I'm very pleased with myself and the outcome of this project. It took a lot of patience, attention to detail and organization but I proved to myself that I have those skills.
Next to finish is the auxillary cooler, trans temp gauge and build a better dipstick tube. The Banks tube sucks eggs. I'm thinking maybe a Econoline tube and modify to fit. I need something longer and able to get around the turbo pipes.
#52
06-08-2018, 11:13 AM
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I got it inspected yesterday and my new AC parts are on the way, so I should be able to drive it more soon. I'll report any issues here if I run into any.
#53
06-09-2018, 05:05 AM
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#54
06-09-2018, 07:38 AM
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