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Need help with a 9" rear end swap on a 65 F100

 
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Old 05-05-2018, 09:19 PM
Two Tone Ford
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Need help with a 9" rear end swap on a 65 F100

I have a 65 F100 short bed with the 54" 9" rear end and I want to install a 57" 9" rear end out of a 78 F100 long bed. Can anyone explain to me the simplest way of doing this or point me towards a thread of someone doing this. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:26 AM
john jamieson
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What's wrong with the existing rear end? If you have a regular (not step side) bed you may run in to tire clearance issues. Otherwise it's a matter of removing and welding the spring and shock perches to where they need to be.
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:00 AM
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The current rear end has excessive play and is only an open differential. I found a Trac Lock in a local junkyard and would rather spend the money to rebuild it. Thanks
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:11 AM
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I found an older thread discussing a rear end swap in a 66 in which jowilker commented

"You can use a post 73 rearend under your 66, by moving the spring shackles. I think it looks better under it."

I wanted to pm him but apparently I don't have that privilege on this site. If anyone knows how to do this or can reach jowilker for me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:13 AM
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How many spline axle shafts does the 1978 rear axle have? If the same number as your 1965 (28 splines), all you have to do is swap the center section.
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:14 PM
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It has the 31 spline axles but that is a good idea. Thanks
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:17 PM
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You can buy a built 9 inch 28 spline center with all new gears, bearings and Yukon trac-loc for less than $900 delivered. A 28 spline can handle 400 plus horse power as long as you don't have big sticky tires on the back. Or you can order a set of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...000a/overview/ and start cutting and welding. Just make sure you keep the pinion angle the same as it is on your truck now. But if you are getting a really good deal on the 31 spline and it is in good condition and isn't going to soak up $400 or $500 dollars worth of parts to get it going. I would swap it in. I have done a couple of housing swaps and it is a lot of heavy work so be sure you have some help and some good jack stands if you decide to go that route.
 
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:55 PM
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Thanks Crop Duster for the information. After replacing the clutches I'll have about $250 in the rear end and like everyone else I'm on a budget. Did you have any fitment issues with the extra 3"? Also did you have to move the shock mounts?
 
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:33 AM
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9 inch

Originally Posted by Two Tone Ford View Post
Thanks Crop Duster for the information. After replacing the clutches I'll have about $250 in the rear end and like everyone else I'm on a budget. Did you have any fitment issues with the extra 3"? Also did you have to move the shock mounts?
There is plenty of room in the wheel well. The rim width you use will dictate what backspacing you need. Yes you have to move the shock mounts.
I'm going to assume that since you say you will have $250 in it after replacing the frictions that you have checked the breakaway torque and know for sure it actually needs those frictions replaced. And you have pulled it apart and know the gears, bearings, axles, brake drums, backing plates etc. are all good and usable parts. And it has the correct pinion yoke on it for your driveshaft. Because if all those stars don't line up you going to blow pasted that $250 in a hurry.
 
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Old 05-07-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Two Tone Ford View Post
Thanks Crop Duster for the information. After replacing the clutches I'll have about $250 in the rear end and like everyone else I'm on a budget. Did you have any fitment issues with the extra 3"? Also did you have to move the shock mounts?
You have to maintain the angle between the pinion and the spring perches. After thinking about this when I did my swap, I came up with the following solution; Place axle on jack stands, with jack under the pinion, place level on spring perch pointing fore and aft, level the axle using the jack, make sure the jack doesn't leak down. Cut off, measure and re-weld 1 spring perch in new location such that it is level. Repeat on the other side. You will have to move the shock mounts as well. I had no tire fitment issues with the combo I was using before. You may have issues with the u-joint compatibility, but u-joint adapters are easy to find. Brake line fitting might also be a headache, but the same there, you can get adapters.
 
 
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