Noisey Valves - Need advice from FE Experts!
#31
09-25-2018, 05:49 AM
The coloring looks like that valve has gotten pretty hot. Do you have a valve spring compressor? If were mine, I would pull the spring on that valve and see if the valve moves up and down freely and check for guide ware wiggling the stem around. That's a whole lot of ware on that valve stem end. While you have the valve assembly off, take the pressure off that rocker (pull the spring back) and wiggle the rocker checking for ware and than slide the rocker away from where it sets on the rocker shaft and look for ware in the shaft.
The rocker assemblies are only 3 months old, so hopefully they are not worn out already.
#32
09-25-2018, 06:03 AM
Looks like you've got a bad valve guide, the discoloration and heat is from exhaust gasses coming up between the valve and the guide
I increased the size of your photo and can see the valve stem under the retainer appears to be black possibly from exhaust carbon
Also that spring has a very thick shim under it, do any of the other springs have shims under them.
Do to the needed clearance to prevent coil bind on higher lift cams one hardly ever see's thick shims like that used with aftermarket springs.
One thing you never told me was if the machine shop installed the matching spring set for that cam or if they reused your stock springs.
I increased the size of your photo and can see the valve stem under the retainer appears to be black possibly from exhaust carbon
Also that spring has a very thick shim under it, do any of the other springs have shims under them.
Do to the needed clearance to prevent coil bind on higher lift cams one hardly ever see's thick shims like that used with aftermarket springs.
One thing you never told me was if the machine shop installed the matching spring set for that cam or if they reused your stock springs.
Interestingly enough that is the only spring on that head with a shim under it...wonder why they would do that?
Before pulling the head I might try and remove the shim, and inspect the guide for ware. Maybe the extra spring pressure is causing the valve to bind?
#34
09-25-2018, 09:52 PM
#35
09-25-2018, 10:03 PM
Unfortunately it's swimwear. 
#36
09-26-2018, 02:53 AM
They used new springs per specs from Lunati. Supposedly...anyway.
Interestingly enough that is the only spring on that head with a shim under it...wonder why they would do that?
Before pulling the head I might try and remove the shim, and inspect the guide for ware. Maybe the extra spring pressure is causing the valve to bind?
Do you have a SHOP MANUAL describing how to properly set lash on a HYD FE? You can also measure possible coil bind during the same procedure.
#37
09-26-2018, 04:40 AM
I do have a shop manual, but I don't think you set the lash with my style of rockers/lifters as they are non adjustable. Just toque the bolts holding the shaft to 45 lbs and go.
#38
09-26-2018, 05:24 AM
#39
09-26-2018, 07:35 AM
#40
09-26-2018, 01:04 PM
#41
09-26-2018, 03:53 PM
... unbelievable ...They assembled an engine (with a performance cam even) without setting the valve-train? And gave you three sets of differing push-rod lengths to fine-tune the engine?
I'm flabbergasted. I don't know what to say...
#42
09-26-2018, 07:07 PM
Sorry I should have told you the whole story...
The builder measured and installed the correct length rods.
He gave me two additional sets one .03 longer and one .06 longer than the set in the engine.
He said if the lifters were excessively noisy after break in try increasing the push rod length up a size to see if the noise goes away.
That is also what Lunati recommends doing as well.
The builder measured and installed the correct length rods.
He gave me two additional sets one .03 longer and one .06 longer than the set in the engine.
He said if the lifters were excessively noisy after break in try increasing the push rod length up a size to see if the noise goes away.
That is also what Lunati recommends doing as well.
#43
09-27-2018, 03:18 AM
Sorry I should have told you the whole story...
The builder measured and installed the correct length rods.
He gave me two additional sets one .03 longer and one .06 longer than the set in the engine.
He said if the lifters were excessively noisy after break in try increasing the push rod length up a size to see if the noise goes away.
That is also what Lunati recommends doing as well.
Listen, you cannot just simply throw differing push-rod lengths at it and expect correct results. FORD service push-rods came in STD., .030 U/S, .060 O/S and .060 U/S lengths to adjust a non-adjustable FE valve-train for service. This approach will determine tappet plunger depth/proper pre-load.
Now with an aftermarket performance cam to come to terms, you may have to use an adjustable push-rod(s) to determine correct lash (and order the lengths needed from a cam manufacturer). The tappet has to be collapsed to measure the lash and what length push-rod you will need to correct the lash.
And to throw a little more confusion to the discussion, you also need to study CORRECT VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. If you bought a HI-PO CAM, you should be able to enjoy it.
#44
09-27-2018, 04:37 AM
the gap (rocker to valve stem) this is all in the book. Applys to all FE FT and MEL engines.
#45
09-27-2018, 05:33 AM
But in my case I think the real issue is the valve guide, and not the push rod length.