@Jregezeino I know that feeling all too well and that is why I was literally laughing when we went on our recent trip to Philadelphia and I was climbing grades in VA with ease. I told my wife over the 2 way radio that the SXE turbo was such a good choice and I had zero regrets.


No need for the EGT gauge with the SXE, leave it uninstalled and see about selling it on the FTE marketplace or locally if you decide not to install it after the T4/SXE. If I had another gauge in mind for the EGT spot on my pillar pod, I would install one, but I don't need anything else on my truck monitored.

Unaltered... The T4/SXE parts are bolt on... Nothing internal to the engine changes, nothing needs to be modified on the engine (Irate T4 requires freeze plug removed in valley). The IC and exhaust plumbing is just that, pipes and tubes...

I am sure you have seen my install video, but if not here it is. You can clearly see the parts received from CSD, although there are several kits out there available with different options to suit your situation. The install process went very well in my opinion and since buttoning everything up, I have been very happy with it.




I have never put the bio-diesel blend into my truck. Since I have a pickup and travel cross country, we installed a 45 gallon auxiliary tank in the bed giving us 75 gallons of on-board fuel and a range of nearly 1000 miles while towing our 5th wheel. That allows me to stop when and where I want for fuel instead of where I have to. I know you don't have the same luxury in the Ex, but I wanted to state why I have passed on the bio-diesel in the past.

I used to run Stanadyne Lubricity formula through my tank at each fill up, but stopped a year or so ago and have noticed no difference in how the truck performs.

 

Just to pile on with the other T4 SXE fan boys (I am one for sure), it is the best turbo option period. I've run stock, modded stock with billet wheel, 38R, 364.5 SXE and now 366SXE. We completed a trip across the country in March fully with our fith wheel loaded with a lot of stuff (relocation) and I used 1023 Street Shredder tune doing it with PIS 175/80 injectors. I've removed the low power tow tunes and now use 1 tune for street and towing. No way the 38R could come anywhere close to doing so. 450hp makes these trucks run around like gas trucks.

 

What kind of boost and EGT numbers do you see with that turbo and injectors?

 

How do you like that 366sxe turbo? Was it improvement over the 364.5sxe? I know some guys running them that really like them. Just had to ask because they didn't run the 364.5sxe turbo's first.

 

It depends on a number of variables but I take it you're looking for maxes which vary by driving condition. Max boost is seen unloaded heavy footing it which is about 45psi (mechanical boost gauge) and max EGT is seen lugging towing the fifth wheel going up hills with strong headwinds which will be 1250 ish but not more which I've seen with the 38R and it won't stop getting hot. As soon as RPM comes up, EGT goes down and running street shredder, power comes on strong and very soon I'm at 65-70mph and then boost is down to about 10psi or so and EGT's can be 800 if the drive is easy. Too many variables for a 1:1 comparison. Suffice to say, the 38R doesn't compare to this turbo in my experience and in fact, saw an early demise leaking oil into the exhaust probably because of surge with ~10k miles. Yeah, I don't tow easy, oh well.

The mid range and top end is definitely stronger. With the .91 AR housing it spools just slightly slower than the 364.5 with a .91. I had the 1.00 AR for a while on it because that's what was recommended but it was too slow in spooling for my taste and due to the direct comparison of a .91 it was pretty obvious. If I never had the 364.5 with .91 I'd probably have thought it was great. I do believe now the .91 is the go to for any 7.3 unless you have bigger injectors than mine.

 

The mid range and top end is definitely stronger. With the .91 AR housing it spools just slightly slower than the 364.5 with a .91. I had the 1.00 AR for a while on it because that's what was recommended but it was too slow in spooling for my taste and due to the direct comparison of a .91 it was pretty obvious. If I never had the 364.5 with .91 I'd probably have thought it was great. I do believe now the .91 is the go to for any 7.3 unless you have bigger injectors than mine.[/QUOTE]


I looking to get a 366 soon. With the 238/100's I'm running would you recommend the 1.0 or stick with the .091. My current setup doesn't come on till +-2000 with a 1.0ar for comparison.

 

The 366/.91 starts coming online around 1600rpm, 1.0 is probably around 1700-1800rpm. Even faster with larger injectors as posted below.

 

If you plan on wringing it out, stick with the 1.0. It’ll still light quicker than the KC with a 1.0 and it’ll keep your drive pressure in check at WOT. The alternative would be to run a .91 and add a gate, but that’s not cheap. I’ve posted videos of my friend’s truck making 15psi at 1500 rpm with 238/100s and a 366/74/1.0.

 

Thanks, That confirms what I was thinking. By the way I'll have a KC38R-366 for sale soon with the up pipes.

 

The Brad makes a very good point with regard to driving style. IF you drive in the 3k and up rpm a lot, go 1.0. My driving style is under 3k. seldom see 3k in fact. So .91 works better for me in combination with not so large injectors. Factor injector size and driving style but I'd say pay no mind to what transmission you have. I've found little merit in that.

 

Be careful about running bio. It has great lubricity but our trucks are only rated for B5.

I don't think it's as much the combustion part as it is the fuel system components being able to handle that stuff.

One tank shouldn't make much of a difference but bio will gum up the fuel filter.

 

Gotcha thanks, yeah it was a vital stop pulling home from Yosemite National Park, won’t be happening very often. Glad I got my post filter gauge hooked up to monitor for any pressure loss! Thanks!

 

@brokestroke has done a ridiculous amount of testing, fabrication, more testing and more fabrication in an effort to find the right setup for him. He has settled on a home brew T4 kit with a home brew Borg Warner S366. He is very happy with the outcome of the T4 kit and turbo he has pretty much built from scratch after testing the KC S300 turbine wheel in several different configurations of OEM and OEM van turbos.

I mention his thread here because I think the two correlate quite well and show just what a good T4 kit and turbo can do.

Please see his thread at the link below.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...6-testing.html

 

Egt not hooked up yet...

Sous, just out of curiosity, what type of boost numbers can be expected with your setup, pulling 10k and cruise throttle at 1700rpm? As you can see my oem turbo and ww2 are only making 5psi steady in this configuration.

 

Yikes, an EX in Cali. You can kiss any thoughts of a T4 goodbye. Well, unless you reinstall the stock setup every time it's smog test time...Legally you're stuck with turbos that say Garrett on the housing. So modded stock or GTP38R is it

With my setup I'd see about 9# in 6th gear with that weight, but i have a ZF6, and buncha little goodies that help the modded stock turbo. You might have a small boost leak and able to see 7# towing on the flats in OD, but wouldn't expect more without slapping money at it.