My First Engine Swap. Lots of simple questions
#1
04-23-2018, 11:29 PM
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My First Engine Swap. Lots of simple questions
So I blew my engine in my 78 F150 when the coolant plug came undone driving one day. Oops. My engine was original to the truck and I loved the 300. I picked up a 94ish??? 300 EFI engine out of Denver for $150 fully dressed in PS, Alternator, and Smog Pump.
My engine setup:::
Important points that I know
My engine setup:::
- 300 Original to truck
- Clifford Intake with Summit 600 Carb
- Headers
- T18 Granny Tranny
- 4x4
- Power Steering Eats Belts
- Truck was rewired 6 months ago with EZ Wire harness by a hotrod friend. Worked great till I blew the engine.
Important points that I know
- EFI Engine doesn't have fuel Plate for mechanical pump. Carter P4070 is the plan.
- I wanted to convert to serpentine. I get it with this conversion.
- The dust cover on the EFi engine is smashed up from laying around. I am using my T18 Tranny. Do i need the cover?
- Can I reuse the PS hoses from my old engine for the new one? Will the orientation be correct? Its that same pump and both sit at roughly the same spot.
- The flywheel is rusty but not RUSTED from sitting in dudes yard. Do I swap my flywheel or keep his? And should I resurface? I have a machine shop a block from my house.
- The engine mounts are on the EFI engine. Are they the same?
- I threw a rod out my case in my engine. My cam had less than 300 miles on it as well as New valve springs, and lifters and locks. I am hoping to reuse my 268H comp cam and get it reground... Cost? of this and are any of these parts resalvagable?
- Will the oil pan on the EFI work on my truck?
- I plan to put fresh gaskets on the oil pan, valve tray, and lifter cover. Should I do anymore.
- Do I have to do anything for the chuck on the fan to engage on the new efi Engine?
- I see 6 bolts on my engine and Bellhousing to disconnect. Are there anymore to remove? Watching videos and familiarizing myself I found a video where they had to spin the flywheel to pull 4 bolts so you can seperate the engine. Does this apply to me? How?
- My old engine has Signs of being a FORGED Crank. Has original STEEL Gears and a couple other things. When I rip apart the engine how do I identify the crank so I can save it if possible if indeed its forged. I would love to build an engine. But for now I just want my truck back.
#2
04-24-2018, 10:19 AM
EFI Engine doesn't have fuel Plate for mechanical pump. Carter P4070 is the plan.
The dust cover on the EFi engine is smashed up from laying around. I am using my T18 Tranny. Do i need the cover?
If so, then yes, you need it. It's more than a dust cover and is a spacer. If you don't have it, the input shaft on the transmission will go too far into the engine and damage the crank.
Can I reuse the PS hoses from my old engine for the new one? Will the orientation be correct? Its that same pump and both sit at roughly the same spot.
The flywheel is rusty but not RUSTED from sitting in dudes yard. Do I swap my flywheel or keep his? And should I resurface? I have a machine shop a block from my house.
The engine mounts are on the EFI engine. Are they the same?
I threw a rod out my case in my engine. My cam had less than 300 miles on it as well as New valve springs, and lifters and locks. I am hoping to reuse my 268H comp cam and get it reground... Cost? of this and are any of these parts resalvagable?
I would have the cam inspected by a reputable shop. Last thing you want is a bad cam shaft and having it shred a lobe and send metal shavings through the engine. If so, you'll be pulling the engine back out and replacing all of the bearings.
Will the oil pan on the EFI work on my truck?
I plan to put fresh gaskets on the oil pan, valve tray, and lifter cover. Should I do anymore.
Do I have to do anything for the chuck on the fan to engage on the new efi Engine?
I see 6 bolts on my engine and Bellhousing to disconnect. Are there anymore to remove? Watching videos and familiarizing myself I found a video where they had to spin the flywheel to pull 4 bolts so you can seperate the engine. Does this apply to me? How?
My old engine has Signs of being a FORGED Crank. Has original STEEL Gears and a couple other things. When I rip apart the engine how do I identify the crank so I can save it if possible if indeed its forged. I would love to build an engine. But for now I just want my truck back.I hope I gave enough information to be useful. Please enlighten me with your all knowing minds.
Good luck with your engine, hope that helps some!
#3
04-26-2018, 12:13 PM
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You can go with this plan OR you can drill out / thread tap the hole and install the mechanical fuel pump. The boss is still there. The hole's just closed.
By dust cover, are you meaning this?
If so, then yes, you need it. It's more than a dust cover and is a spacer. If you don't have it, the input shaft on the transmission will go too far into the engine and damage the crank.
Yes, there's no difference.
Your flywheel is just like the disk brakes. It needs a clean, smooth surface to work properly with the clutch. You can have it resurfaced if there aren't any cracks, or buy a new one. But definitely have it cleaned up while it's out.
There's been some debate on this, but I don't know for sure since I've never examined an EFI block up close. I've heard the mounting holes are different and you have to use the EFI mounts.
Are you meaning bent a push rod? If so, are you sure it damaged the camshaft?
I would have the cam inspected by a reputable shop. Last thing you want is a bad cam shaft and having it shred a lobe and send metal shavings through the engine. If so, you'll be pulling the engine back out and replacing all of the bearings.
This depends on whether your current engine has a rear sump or a mid sump oil pan. Is the deep part in the center or the rear on your current engine? If it's the rear, yes. If it's the center, no.
Also replace the rear main seal and the timing cover gasket. Get the timing cover gasket with the harmonic balancer repair sleeve if you're going to reuse the balancer.
Shouldn't. It's purely mechanical.
With the 300, just unbolt the 4 (or 6?) bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine and pull them apart. There's nothing more involved as long as the engine mounts are free.
There's some part numbers floating around that signify a forged crank, but I don't know them offhand. As for steel gears, all of them had steel gears until the 80s sometime.
Good luck with your engine, hope that helps some!
By dust cover, are you meaning this?
If so, then yes, you need it. It's more than a dust cover and is a spacer. If you don't have it, the input shaft on the transmission will go too far into the engine and damage the crank.
Yes, there's no difference.
Your flywheel is just like the disk brakes. It needs a clean, smooth surface to work properly with the clutch. You can have it resurfaced if there aren't any cracks, or buy a new one. But definitely have it cleaned up while it's out.
There's been some debate on this, but I don't know for sure since I've never examined an EFI block up close. I've heard the mounting holes are different and you have to use the EFI mounts.
Are you meaning bent a push rod? If so, are you sure it damaged the camshaft?
I would have the cam inspected by a reputable shop. Last thing you want is a bad cam shaft and having it shred a lobe and send metal shavings through the engine. If so, you'll be pulling the engine back out and replacing all of the bearings.
This depends on whether your current engine has a rear sump or a mid sump oil pan. Is the deep part in the center or the rear on your current engine? If it's the rear, yes. If it's the center, no.
Also replace the rear main seal and the timing cover gasket. Get the timing cover gasket with the harmonic balancer repair sleeve if you're going to reuse the balancer.
Shouldn't. It's purely mechanical.
With the 300, just unbolt the 4 (or 6?) bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine and pull them apart. There's nothing more involved as long as the engine mounts are free.
There's some part numbers floating around that signify a forged crank, but I don't know them offhand. As for steel gears, all of them had steel gears until the 80s sometime.
Good luck with your engine, hope that helps some!
I have a T18 Manual Lever Transmission. There is a rod going into the right side of the engine that the clutch uses for leverage. How Do I seperate this?
So far so good. I just have to remove the hood. Radiator and Figure out that clutch and shes coming out. Already stripped everything else. I just don't want to try anything without some form of guidance.
#4
04-26-2018, 12:28 PM
If you're talking about clutch pivot ball, that's on the left side of the engine. (Just so you don't order wrong parts or get them backwards, terminology is important. All directions on an engine are if you're sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.)
But to remove that, it's a lot simpler than it looks. You just have to wobble that linkage around a little bit and it'll pop off that ball and it's free. I think it's just held on with a spring clip.
If you can't get it separated, you should just be able to get a big wrench on there and unscrew the pivot ball from the engine block and leave it in the clutch linkage.
But to remove that, it's a lot simpler than it looks. You just have to wobble that linkage around a little bit and it'll pop off that ball and it's free. I think it's just held on with a spring clip.
If you can't get it separated, you should just be able to get a big wrench on there and unscrew the pivot ball from the engine block and leave it in the clutch linkage.
#5
04-26-2018, 12:34 PM
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If you're talking about clutch pivot ball, that's on the left side of the engine. (Just so you don't order wrong parts or get them backwards, terminology is important. All directions on an engine are if you're sitting in the driver's seat facing forward.)
But to remove that, it's a lot simpler than it looks. You just have to wobble that linkage around a little bit and it'll pop off that ball and it's free. I think it's just held on with a spring clip.
If you can't get it separated, you should just be able to get a big wrench on there and unscrew the pivot ball from the engine block and leave it in the clutch linkage.
But to remove that, it's a lot simpler than it looks. You just have to wobble that linkage around a little bit and it'll pop off that ball and it's free. I think it's just held on with a spring clip.
If you can't get it separated, you should just be able to get a big wrench on there and unscrew the pivot ball from the engine block and leave it in the clutch linkage.
Yes left side. You win kind sir.
Wobble. Can i do this while trying to pull?
#6
04-26-2018, 12:41 PM
You know, the more I think about it, I think you have to separate it WHEN you pull the engine. The easy-to-separate clip I'm thinking of is the pivot ball for the clutch fork on the transmission. Sorry, it's been about five years since I converted to a hydraulic clutch and everything is from memory.
I pulled my engine once or twice back when I had mechanical linkage, and I remember once getting the engine back in, everything seated, and ready to hook all my accessories back together, and having my stomach sink because I realized I didn't hook up the clutch linkage. I had to disconnect the motor mounts so I could rock the engine far enough to get the clutch linkage back on that pivot ball.
I pulled my engine once or twice back when I had mechanical linkage, and I remember once getting the engine back in, everything seated, and ready to hook all my accessories back together, and having my stomach sink because I realized I didn't hook up the clutch linkage. I had to disconnect the motor mounts so I could rock the engine far enough to get the clutch linkage back on that pivot ball.
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04-26-2018, 12:46 PM
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#10
04-26-2018, 01:21 PM
Wow, that looks a lot easier than mine. If mine had just been bolted on like that, I would have just undone those two bolts and popped it on the linkage instead of loosening the whole darn engine. 
Yeah, you should be able to just undo those two bolts and then pop the linkage off the engine. It's just a ball and socket. (When you put it back together, it'd be a good time to regrease that too).
Yeah, you should be able to just undo those two bolts and then pop the linkage off the engine. It's just a ball and socket. (When you put it back together, it'd be a good time to regrease that too).
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