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Scrubbing/squeaking sound under truck while driving

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  #16  
Old 05-13-2018, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikec35
I’m dreading taking the driveshaft out to replace them.
Rear drive shaft is easy to remove. I took mine in for a rebuild.

This is where I was going to post a photo of my Superduty driveshaft in the passenger side of the Prius, but photos aren't working today.



Originally Posted by Mikec35
I would have done it sooner if my 2 ton floor jack wasn’t struggling. I think it’s more like a 1 ton jack disguised as a 2 ton.
Uh... a 2-ton floor jack is too small. My truck weighs 8000 with a little light cargo and a topper. I have a 3-ton floor jack.

Originally Posted by Mikec35
I put the truck on 4 jack stands and put it in 4wd and put a stethoscope on the front of the transfer case where the drive shaft attaches and can hear the squeaking while running in 4 wd. I put it in 2wd while still on the stands and only hear it occasionally. Put the truck on the ground and the noise is there whether it’s in 2wd or 4wd. So I’m thinking it’s possibly the front driveshafts u-joints or possibly something in the transfer case... Any suggestions?
The front drive shaft should be completely free. Mine doesn't turn unless a hub is locked, stuck, or the transfer case is in 4WD. It sounds like something is turning your front drive shaft, or your transfer case needs service. Transfer cases are very inexpensive compared to a lot of the other hardware on the truck.
 
  #17  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:23 AM
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I was going to put my gopro camera under the truck to see if the front drive shaft turns while in 2wd and I found this video that shows it does turn a little while in 2wd. This, I think, confirms my suspicion that a front driveshaft u-joint is bad. At least thats where I'll start.

 
  #18  
Old 05-14-2018, 12:17 AM
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The front shaft can turn while driving in 2WD even with the hubs disengaged. If the noise is coming from the front shaft I would assume it would change when the hubs & T-case are engaged vs. disengaged.
 
  #19  
Old 05-15-2018, 10:12 AM
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I believe I found the problem

Looks like the front shaft double cardan joint. Now to locate all the parts to fix.

 
  #20  
Old 05-16-2018, 12:01 AM
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I found one at the bottom of the ocean that looked like that.





Actually it was in much better condition, just tryin ta make you feel good about yours.
 
  #21  
Old 05-16-2018, 03:18 AM
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Figured it was a bearing somewhere! Glad ya found the cause. Now, as far as part numbers go...

U-joints, Greasable: 3x Spicer 5-178X
CV Ball: 1x Moog/Precision 617

-or-

U-Joints, Non-Greasable: 3x Spicer 5-1350X
CV Ball: 1x Moog/Precision 617

Personally I always go greasable, but seeing as the double cardan is tight, I understand about opting for the non-greasables. To my knowledge Spicer unfortunately doesn't make a CV ball, otherwise I'd have given you their part number for that as well.

Good luck on he project! Hope it won't be too hard on ya.
 
  #22  
Old 05-16-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by '88 E-350
I found one at the bottom of the ocean that looked like that.

Actually it was in much better condition, just tryin ta make you feel good about yours.
Thanks. I feel better now. I sprayed mine down with PB Blaster. Should be good to go.
 
  #23  
Old 05-16-2018, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by IDI-Charlie
Figured it was a bearing somewhere! Glad ya found the cause. Now, as far as part numbers go...

U-joints, Greasable: 3x Spicer 5-178X
CV Ball: 1x Moog/Precision 617

-or-

U-Joints, Non-Greasable: 3x Spicer 5-1350X
CV Ball: 1x Moog/Precision 617

Personally I always go greasable, but seeing as the double cardan is tight, I understand about opting for the non-greasables. To my knowledge Spicer unfortunately doesn't make a CV ball, otherwise I'd have given you their part number for that as well.

Good luck on he project! Hope it won't be too hard on ya.
Thanks for the part #’s! I ordered everything today. Just for the heck of it I called the local powertrain shop and he told me these shafts are junk because people never grease them. Told me he had 6 in the shop now and it probably needed a new double cardan joint / yoke and the cost for repair would be $330. That right there is the reason I don’t pay anyone to do anything unless I absolutely have no choice!
 
  #24  
Old 05-16-2018, 05:11 PM
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Post some pictures of the rebuild if you can.
 
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