Locking Hub recommendations
#1
Locking Hub recommendations
I need new locking hubs for the front axle of my 75 F100... I think I narrowed it down to a choice between Mile Marker & Warn; primarily because these are good hubs and there are service kits available. I have an old beat up set from Superwinch that seem to engage when I hit a pot hole... I like Superwinch and would go with that again but without parts such as o-rings available, it doesn’t make sense to go that direction. There are other ‘off brands’ available but I don’t want to go with cheap import knock-offs.
What are you all using? Any pros/cons to consider with these?
#3
#4
I've had Warn and MM. They both appear cheaply manufactured, but both worked. I will say I've never had to replace a set of Warn Premiums. I prefer the Warn Premium because of the 330 degree rotation which is supposed to provide better engagement (does it?). The only thing I don't like about the Warn premium is there's not a lot of grip area for my fingers. I made a very useful tool using moldable plastic, which kinda looks like something that came from the aft end of a wild hog. I call it the "hub turd".
#5
Funny, but I hate the Warn Premiums (#20990) for the same reason! Well, it's not so much the longer throw, as much as it is the same lack of grip you mentioned, and the relatively sharp edges. I much prefer the less expensive Standard model #9790 with the plastic **** and short throw.
The inner locking mechanism is the same for either. Only the **** section changes.
In theory the longer turning and finer threads would let you move the **** more easily in adverse conditions. But I've always had an easier time with the plastic *****.
And I don't consider them weaker and break prone mainly because if you maintain them, they are not hard to turn. Now I can't account for climates that are colder and moister, but that's probably where a Premium can shine.
Paul
The inner locking mechanism is the same for either. Only the **** section changes.
In theory the longer turning and finer threads would let you move the **** more easily in adverse conditions. But I've always had an easier time with the plastic *****.
And I don't consider them weaker and break prone mainly because if you maintain them, they are not hard to turn. Now I can't account for climates that are colder and moister, but that's probably where a Premium can shine.
Paul
#6
Frankly, other than the complexity (not that big of a deal really) I would always choose the factory Spicer lockouts over an aftermarket model.
And I sell the aftermarket ones and have for more than 30 years. But I always have recommended using the factory hubs first, if that's an option.
When it's not an option, the aftermarket ones are the name of the game. Now, if you don't have the originals, and don't mind spending two to three times the price of a standard aftermarket to get a factory-like setup, Yukon is offering their Hardcore kit. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc.../Bronco_Dana30
As mentioned, they're not cheap. But as far as I know they're the only game in town if you want new, and want the old stronger steel type.
Paul
And I sell the aftermarket ones and have for more than 30 years. But I always have recommended using the factory hubs first, if that's an option.
When it's not an option, the aftermarket ones are the name of the game. Now, if you don't have the originals, and don't mind spending two to three times the price of a standard aftermarket to get a factory-like setup, Yukon is offering their Hardcore kit. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc.../Bronco_Dana30
As mentioned, they're not cheap. But as far as I know they're the only game in town if you want new, and want the old stronger steel type.
Paul
#7
Yeah those Yukon’s are the real deal... but the standard aftermarket replacement is going to have to do until I can justify that... And by justify I mean bust (not just wear out a 10y/o pair) a cheaper set. I am currently running a standard Dana 44; it’s not even the hi-pinion type. I don’t think what I am doing requires that just yet.
So it’s currently a toss-up between either brand. Mile Marker is edging out due to price and their all stainless aesthetics.
So it’s currently a toss-up between either brand. Mile Marker is edging out due to price and their all stainless aesthetics.
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#9
Hah! Yep, they are. And they're good products as well. They've got some of the better features of all of the others. Not sure if that makes them "better" or even "as good" as one or the other, but they worked out well for us.
At one time or another I've sold all the usual suspects. All good, but all breakable (even the factory ones) if you try hard enough.
But as you say, you got a good life out of your other ones. No reason to think you won't do as good or better this time. Good bang-for-the-buck going that route then.
Paul
At one time or another I've sold all the usual suspects. All good, but all breakable (even the factory ones) if you try hard enough.
But as you say, you got a good life out of your other ones. No reason to think you won't do as good or better this time. Good bang-for-the-buck going that route then.
Paul
#11
#14
Would these work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1968-19...1WZ1Aw&vxp=mtr
#15
Crazy96863,
I have a set of the lock-out hubs shown on the ebay link that my son bought for me over a year ago. I didn't need, don't plan to use them and would welcome an opportunity to sell them allot cheaper than shown on ebay. If interest, please send me a PM. Shipping from where I'm at 93033 to the Northern end of the state should be reasonable. Thanks
Don (aka EQCMCAT)
I have a set of the lock-out hubs shown on the ebay link that my son bought for me over a year ago. I didn't need, don't plan to use them and would welcome an opportunity to sell them allot cheaper than shown on ebay. If interest, please send me a PM. Shipping from where I'm at 93033 to the Northern end of the state should be reasonable. Thanks
Don (aka EQCMCAT)