Greasing the joints & others when under '89 E150
#16
Most everything you ever wanted to know about greasing the front end (with video pics)!
How to Grease a Tie Rod with or without a Zerk Fitting - Suspension.com
As to dust boots, caps, or shields. The type of boot depends on what brand parts you have.
I took my van to the local Castrol shop to have the oil changed. I told them that I wanted them to grease the fittings (they don't unless you request it). The guy acted like it was such a big extra job and commented: They are old and will just leak out and need to be replaced. NO, that is not always true, it depends on which one you have with the parts.
Mine were replaced and only came with a dust shield, not a real boot. The dust shield just slips over the end and so the grease will always flow out the bottom of it.
A genuine Ford part will probably come with a rubber dust boot that is banded to the bottom to hold the grease inside the boot. (these are the type that will swell out).
This brand tie rod end has no way to clamp the boot to it so it just uses a slip on shield
This tie rod end has an actual groove built into it so you can clamp the dust boot on to the tie rod end. This type will balloon out when you grease it.
How to Grease a Tie Rod with or without a Zerk Fitting - Suspension.com
As to dust boots, caps, or shields. The type of boot depends on what brand parts you have.
I took my van to the local Castrol shop to have the oil changed. I told them that I wanted them to grease the fittings (they don't unless you request it). The guy acted like it was such a big extra job and commented: They are old and will just leak out and need to be replaced. NO, that is not always true, it depends on which one you have with the parts.
Mine were replaced and only came with a dust shield, not a real boot. The dust shield just slips over the end and so the grease will always flow out the bottom of it.
A genuine Ford part will probably come with a rubber dust boot that is banded to the bottom to hold the grease inside the boot. (these are the type that will swell out).
This brand tie rod end has no way to clamp the boot to it so it just uses a slip on shield
This tie rod end has an actual groove built into it so you can clamp the dust boot on to the tie rod end. This type will balloon out when you grease it.
#17
BTW. I do not know if this is true for the 1989 vans with a 5.0, but, on my 1988 with a 5.0 engine, there is a TSB about the oil dipstick being the wrong length.
The first time I changed the oil in my van, I added the standard 5 qts and the dipstick showed that I was still below the add mark. Because some engines hold 6 qts, I added another making the total 6 qts. The dipstick still showed it was a qt low. My manual says the 1988 5.0 only holds 5 qts. There are oil pans for the 5.0 that hold more then 5 qts but mine is the original stock oil pan.
If you have a stock oil pan then when you change the oil, you might want to check that.
I have to argue with the guys at the Castrol oil change shop each time and insist they add only 5qts because their computer says 6qts.
From my Ford service manual
If you plan on keeping your van then here is a manual that will help you out allot. It is the actual Ford service manual on CD
FORD 1989 Bronco, Econoline, F150-F350 & Super Duty Pick Up Truck Shop Manual CD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-1989-B...QAAOSwlv9aU6TQ
HEre is one more must have.. Electrical and vacuum trouble shooting manual.
1989 Ford Econoline Wiring Diagram EVTM Manual 89
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Ford-E...QAAOSwT5tWG~cn
The first time I changed the oil in my van, I added the standard 5 qts and the dipstick showed that I was still below the add mark. Because some engines hold 6 qts, I added another making the total 6 qts. The dipstick still showed it was a qt low. My manual says the 1988 5.0 only holds 5 qts. There are oil pans for the 5.0 that hold more then 5 qts but mine is the original stock oil pan.
If you have a stock oil pan then when you change the oil, you might want to check that.
I have to argue with the guys at the Castrol oil change shop each time and insist they add only 5qts because their computer says 6qts.
From my Ford service manual
If you plan on keeping your van then here is a manual that will help you out allot. It is the actual Ford service manual on CD
FORD 1989 Bronco, Econoline, F150-F350 & Super Duty Pick Up Truck Shop Manual CD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-1989-B...QAAOSwlv9aU6TQ
HEre is one more must have.. Electrical and vacuum trouble shooting manual.
1989 Ford Econoline Wiring Diagram EVTM Manual 89
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Ford-E...QAAOSwT5tWG~cn
#18
ok, so I bit the bullet and ordered the disc for the ford service manual. I waited because I had already ordered two different repair manuals, but I guess this one would be the best one.
I haven't seen any problems with the driving of the vehicle, what do you all think about replacing with a universal dust boot for the blown boots?
Aftermarket Universal Dust Boots Polyurethane Replacement Dust Cover
Also thanks Annaleigh, Great detailed info as always!
I haven't seen any problems with the driving of the vehicle, what do you all think about replacing with a universal dust boot for the blown boots?
Aftermarket Universal Dust Boots Polyurethane Replacement Dust Cover
Also thanks Annaleigh, Great detailed info as always!
#21
#23
I think I'll just grease those busted boots like hell and often till they fail. Ill look for the u joint zerks and keep them you all posted.
I basically know nothing about automobiles; Everything I've learned so far has came from people giving great info on this forum here at FTE. I've learned so much and just for reference I didn't even know what a zerk was until I googled some you tube videos and I tried to grease the break bleeder lines. Now, I'm a molecular biologist by trade and if you want to extract DNA and and transform it into a different organism to make change colors or whatever, I can help.
I know nothing nor do I know anyone who works on cars and when people give me great info that helps me so much!
I appreciate all the comments people have taken the time to give me and hope that this forum can help people with similar questions, no matter how basic they may appear to the highly experienced forum user. I just want everyone to understand that i'm open to hearing all valuable experience or thoughtful ideas.
I basically know nothing about automobiles; Everything I've learned so far has came from people giving great info on this forum here at FTE. I've learned so much and just for reference I didn't even know what a zerk was until I googled some you tube videos and I tried to grease the break bleeder lines. Now, I'm a molecular biologist by trade and if you want to extract DNA and and transform it into a different organism to make change colors or whatever, I can help.
I know nothing nor do I know anyone who works on cars and when people give me great info that helps me so much!
I appreciate all the comments people have taken the time to give me and hope that this forum can help people with similar questions, no matter how basic they may appear to the highly experienced forum user. I just want everyone to understand that i'm open to hearing all valuable experience or thoughtful ideas.
#24
you could also use some duct tape around them
#26
#28
I just kept taping over it
van ran for 20+ years and the joints were still good
I just saw the flex seal tape.
is it any good? amazon reviews are so-so
#29
I don't know I have seen good and bad reviews on both.. Seems to me if it was really what they say it is then it would be widely used in the construction trade.. Just spray the whole roof and gutters and you would never have to worry about leaks again!
Duct tape has a proven track record!
Duct tape has a proven track record!
#30