Hey all,

I have a '92 ranger 2.3, 5 speed. Not sure how many original miles, since the odometer only goes to 99999, I'm not sure how many times it's turned over...
I've read many discussions regarding the oil gauges not working the way they should. This one is no different. When I first got it a couple of months ago, the oil pressure gauge wasn't working, so I replaced the pressure switch, and it started working. However it would take anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute before the needle would move, depending on the outside temp. Recently I noticed the needle would spasm periodically, especially during higher RPM. So I decided to install a mechanical gauge to see what kind of pressure I was dealing with. After installing the gauge, the new gauge didn't register any pressure at all. Even after letting it run for several minutes and taking it for a drive. So then I decided I would buy a oil test gauge, With the test gauge, now I can see what kind of pressure I'm working with. Initially when I start it, the pressure slowly raises to 10-12 psi and does not go any higher, regardless of engine RPM. So now that I see that, I wonder if the pick up tube in the oil pan is clogged. At this point I really don't see any other choice but to drop the oil pan. So that leads me to my question.
In order to remove the pan, I've read that the transmission has to be removed, and the engine raised. I've removed these transmissions numerous times, so that's not an issue, but I've never raised the engine. From what I can tell, aside from loosening the two motor mounts, It looks like I may need to remove the fan and fan shroud, air intake, and possibly disconnect the exhaust. I'm not sure, assuming I only need to raise the engine a few inches, if I would need to disconnect any electrical, vacuum or coolant lines?? Can anyone provide any other info. on what else I should look for, or expect?

Thanks

 

If you just want to inspect the oil pump pickup screen, maybe try removing the oil pan drain plug to drain the oil pan, then insert a fiber optic camera probe through the drain hole to have a look at the pickup screen.

 

Cotos to PawPaw as I do the same with my snapon scope!! But to drop the pan you dont need to go to crazy, I usually pull the shroud, upper intake and that's it, never had a problem going any further with trans removed pan will slide out, worst case drop the pick-up in the pan than remove, you do have a problem with the oil system or maybe your mains and rods are so worn oil is just pissing past so be sure while the pan is down and check one or two to see. good luck

 

Thanks for the feedback! I don't have a fiber optic, so I may resort to dropping the pan.It's good to know I don't have to remove the trans to drop the pan. So if I remove the fan and air intake, about how much extra room do you think I need to get the pan to slide through? It doesn't look like the engine will lift a whole lot before hitting the fire wall? As for the engine, it runs nice and smooth, no knocks or any other unusual noises. Doesn't blow smoke either. So I'm "hoping" it's just a clogged screen or possible work oil pump.

 

If you don't have the scope probe, lets think about this some more. Do you have a friend with one that you can borrow, or know someone & have them come by & use, if not, try your local auto parts store "Loan-A-Tool" program, or maybe consider investing in one from Harbor Freight here. https://www.harborfreight.com/Digita...era-61839.html, with one of their discount codes it could be 20% or more less of your gold.

 

I'll check my local harbor freight for a scope. With the scope, is there enough room to get between the pan and the pick up tube to see the condition of the screen?

 

I don't know, as I've never had to do this, maybe David can answer that access question. Check the diameter of the probe & the dia of your oil drain hole, to make sure the probe is small enough to go in. It says it'll fit in a spark plug hole.

 

Pull the oil filter and cut it open. If it's full of sludge that's your sure sign to pull the pan.

 

Thoughts:

a) if you believe a bunch of sludge is obstructing the intake screen on the oil pump pickup, then you can try draining the oil, filling the crankcase with a solvent such as kerosene for a period of time, drain the solvent, refill with oil and see what happens.

b) my personal experiences with the very few vehicles I've dealt with that had a screen obstruction from sludge was that they had excess blowboy that could be seen by pulling the PCV valve with the engine running, and/or has crud build up on the bottom side of the oil fill cap and/or valve covers (when you could remove the cap and fell the concealed valve cover surface.

c) you probably know this, but worn rod and/or main bearings = low oil pressure.

 

There was a time when the Ranger Lima has gasket disintegration problems. The gasket turned to crumbles, and was slurped up by the oil pump intake, blocking the screen to a large extent.
Some used a coathanger or other wire through the drain plug opening to scrape the crumbles from the oil pickup. You do not need to make it absolutely clean as there is a lot of excess pickup area, so it is an effective solution.
You can purchase bore or inspection cameras that will connect using USB, Bluetooth, or Wifi to either a laptop, smart phone or tablet. I have one I have used to look at cylinder walls. Was less than $15 delivered.
I don't think the pan will come off all the way w/o removing the transmission as the bell housing will interfere. Likely needs lifting also unless the oil pump is disconnected and dropped in the pan. I've done it in 390's/352's back when, and was able to do the R&$ with a little picky bolt & gasket installation with the pan CLOSE to the bottom of the block. I re-read all the posts, and they seem to contradict, and that's why I think the engine & trans must be moved/removed for access, but dropping the pump may alleviate the clearance problem. Don't wanna find out...
If you had real bad oil pressure or volume, the follower supports would likely start to clatter, unless they are varnished up and stuck. If you want to know, and don't mind rust-proofing your hood and engine bay, you can remove the cam cover, replace the intake, and start the engine. The cam is 'last' to get fed oil, and if it hurricanes oil as it normally does, you have a problem at your pressure take off point, or the gauge or pickup sensor.
The pressure is measured(vintage depending) on the side of the cylinder head, just above the filter & temp sensor(vintage dependent), so if the hurrican occurs, check the port.
tom

 

I didnt do it but I had the oil pump in my 4.0 replaced when they were doing some repairs (I thought I had bad rear main) but valve and valley were leaking. Anyhow trans was out and the shop lifted the engine about 8 inches I think pulled pan and then R&R'd the pump. There has been a discussion on rocker arm oiling over on ranger station and yes the oil pressure seems to be driven off the camshaft bearings. Maybe run as suggested a flush and then change the oil to see if that helps 1st. The oil filter is also a good idea. Doing a flush can possibly lead to other problems is there is a lot of sludge as it may cause it to displace even after the oil change. If you do this route make sure to just get cheap oil since you wont run it very long before you change again. Also run some 40wt maybe or add something lke STP to see if there is a pressure build up.

Just some thoughts

 

So this morning, I removed the oil pan, I quick visual inspection of the screen and gasket revealed the problem. (see photos). I'm going to replace the gasket and pick up tube. I thought about doing the pump while I'm in here, but seems evident that the screen is the issue. I'm not even going to bother to try and clean it, I'm just going to replace it.

Next question, does anyone know the torque spec. and torque sequence for re-installing the pan?

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...2018%20002.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...2018%20004.jpg

Thanks

EDIT: Well since the photos didn't upload as planned. I'll just say that the screen on the oil pick up tube was jam packed with rubber gasket material, and I mean JAM PACKED!. I'm surprised I was even getting 10psi oil pressure. That must be a strong oil pump to be able to pull oil through the debris in the screen. Also, the gasket has definitely deteriorated, there were flakes of gasket material inside the oil pan after I removed it.

 

Reads like tomw called the oil pan gasket shedding & clogging the pump screen as a suspect belonging high on the list & right on!!!

 

Well after changing out the oil pick up tube/screen, Oil pressure now reads 55-60psi during cold start up, and settles in around 35psi after warming up. Good to go.....

 

OK, good feedback & to hear replacing the clogged up oil pump pick up screen has put the fix on the low oil pressure anomaly. EDIT: Wooops I forgot it was the pan gasket debris that clogged that puppy up!!!!