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82' Electrical Battery/Alternator Help!

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  #16  
Old 04-18-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
Installing a new 4 gauge charge cable and changing a pulley is still a bolt on deal. Oh, might be getting crazy as you'll have to crimp or solder a wire on the new harness off the alternator as well. Get an alternator already clocked correctly for your application and you won't have to loosen and tighten those 3 case bolts either. 3g is a bolt on swap. heck for that matter a 10si or 12si is a bolt on swap.

To OP, personally I wouldn't bother with the small case 95 amp 3g, the cost difference is negligible and it takes the same time to install either one.

A 42 amp 1g will work and be adequate for the electrical load these trucks have. The advantage of going with a 3g is a simple internally regulated alternator, less wiring, and mainly increased output at idle for full voltage. No more dimming lights or slow defroster at idle, less runtime required to charge battery after starting.
There is nothing wrong with doing this and upgrading your alternator. It can be easily done with a little research. But your stock puny one would work ok also. It's whatever you want to do, cadunkle always takes the high road wanting the very best he can put on there, while I am more of the "get it going" kind of guy with minimal fuss.
 
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:20 PM
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So,

Tested the alternator thoroughly, like you guys guessed, it was shot. Pretty sure its the original 30+ year old alternator(surprised it lasted this long). Anyway, picked up a 70amp exact copy remanufactured model from the local autopart, stuck with the external regulator, cleaned up all connections, new harness, etc. After about an hour of work, and a recharged battery, she fired up perfectly on the first turn.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:22 PM
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And one last thing!

The pulley change was a bear! Guessing that bolt on the orig alt pulley had been seared on there for the last 3 decades! Went through two hand-held impacts before having to bring out the air compressor!
 
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2018, 04:52 PM
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ha ha!! Yes they are ON there. A little anti-sieze on threads for the next mechanic ain't a bad plan.
 
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2018, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
ha ha!! Yes they are ON there. A little anti-sieze on threads for the next mechanic ain't a bad plan.
The older I get the more adamantly I use antiseize on fasteners. I've come to realize 9 times out of 10 the next mechanic is me.

I don't bother on alternator pulleys though, never had one give me a lick of trouble. Be careful using antiseize on any threads for rotating things that are not positively locked in place, you don't want it coming loose from spinning or stopping motions.
 
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2018, 04:43 PM
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Reviving the thread! Lol



So, truck worked great for about a week, and then started having the same issue. Finally realized the problem was the aftermarket radio, which was wired in a funky way. Left it unplugged for about a week, testing battery every day, and you guessed it, that was it.

So, after correctly wiring, the new alternator, new voltage regulator, truck is working fine. But.... went to auto part today to use their tester and still getting an “excessive ripple” reading. Albeit, the voltages are much more stable than with the shot alternator, what does this mean?
 
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Old 05-16-2018, 04:44 PM
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And how is it possible that my voltage is higher when “loaded” versus no load? I’m no perfirxironis
 

Last edited by orlando.ortiz3; 05-16-2018 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Mistake
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2018, 05:31 PM
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http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

Read the link, it's easy to do and no special tools required nor disconnecting anything.

To perform a voltage drop test a load is placed across the circuit (parallel) or connection that's being tested. Measure the drop across the live connection while it is under load. Voltage follows the path of least resistance so the voltage lost due to circuit resistance will be displayed as a positive number on the meter. Ideally "Zero" voltage drop but there will always be some.
 
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by orlando.ortiz3 View Post
But.... went to auto part today to use their tester and still getting an “excessive ripple” reading. Albeit, the voltages are much more stable than with the shot alternator, what does this mean?
I’m surprised 215mv is considered “excessive”. I’ve always used 500mv (0.5VAC) as the limit for a good alternator.

By design, any alternator will put out minor AC ripple.
 
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by orlando.ortiz3 View Post
And how is it possible that my voltage is higher when “loaded” versus no load?
I wouldn’t worry too much about that. As the battery takes a charge, the regulator slowly lowers the voltage. It senses this by determining how much charging current is needed to maintain a certain voltage level.

When you increase other loads, the regulator (somewhat mistakenly) interprets this as a higher voltage needed to maintain the same level of battery charge. Perfect? Not really, but still adequate. That’s why we always stress to start with a fully charged battery for any electrical troubleshooting.
 
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Voltage Drop Testing

Read the link, it's easy to do and no special tools required nor disconnecting anything.
Tedster, you lost me on this one. I thought the initial symptoms were caused by a bad alternator, and compounded by a wonky radio installation. Both issues have been corrected and now the only question is the AC ripple and charging voltage, which both seem okay to me.
 
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:45 AM
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You are correct, the problem has been resolved, just wanted to know what you guys thought about that ripple. Not very familiar with these older electrical systems, so just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a hidden/underlying problem there. Thanks for the input and help!
 
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  #28  
Old 05-17-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by orlando.ortiz3 View Post
You are correct, the problem has been resolved, just wanted to know what you guys thought about that ripple. Not very familiar with these older electrical systems, so just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a hidden/underlying problem there. Thanks for the input and help!
As kr98664 said anything under 500MV or 0.5V is considered fine for a ripple test in externally regulated alternators. many newer style alternators have capacitive/resistive filters to modulate the ripple in the regulator and generally don't have ripples much over 100MV / 0.1V the tool you are testing with may be using a lower ripple threshold intended for newer style alternators.

Also there are 6 diodes in the Alt 2 For each phase (3 phases in the alt) one blocking the neg side of the sine wave and one blocking the positive side of the sine wave.
 
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