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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

  #1  
Old 04-15-2018, 11:05 PM
gdmafia
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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

2000 Ford F350
Replaced injectors and hpop this weekend, truck runs great when running.
Long cranking 5-10 sec or more to no start, but a short blast starter fluid that I don't like to use, but it will make it alive.
It's like more when it's hot, I was happy when it started this morning with a short crank, but after a short stop for coffee it was back with a long crank.
Replaced all injectors that was rebuild and checked buy a shop in cali.
Replaced the hpop with a terminator T500 and a new IPR.
Also installed riffraff fuel rail crossover with gold spring.
I don't have any major scan tools, but I do have Car Gauge Pro on my phone . Screen shot at idle.
I pulled the ICP on the head to look for air, but full. It will run with it unplugged, but yet no start when I'm at that point.
Pulled out the IPR in the hpop as I read it's the most common failure for no start when hot and replaced with old one. Still long cranks to no start.
 
  #2  
Old 04-16-2018, 06:12 AM
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That duty cycle looks high for being at idle. I think you have a HPO leak or possibly a faulty HPOP.

if you have a HPO leak, it would show up worse with warmer oil, as it thins out.
 
  #3  
Old 04-16-2018, 07:35 AM
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Screen shot? Long IPR?

As long as I'm asking questions, have you given the engine plenty of time to work all the air out of the oil?
 
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:54 AM
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OK, this is the second instance in two days where the picture is not coming through for me. gdmafia, what method are you using to post the picture?
 
  #5  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:29 AM
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HPO leak? As internal pump leak or gasket leak? I;ll check the valley.

I have 3 IPR all the same size. I did drive almost 100 miles before change it out.

I can't see my picture either. Upload to Manage Attachments

 
  #6  
Old 04-16-2018, 02:37 PM
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There is no codes
Oil is good
Have fuel
Driving it today, feel like more crackling at idle/low rpm and I'll say lost some power, as in need more pedal to get up to speed on the freeway.
 
  #7  
Old 04-17-2018, 06:25 AM
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Ah... you have an internal oil leak (usually bad injector O-rings), the ICP is lying to you, the HPOP is going out, or the IPR is going out. First order of business is the Cody test.
 
  #8  
Old 04-17-2018, 08:05 AM
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When you say you pulled the icp for air but full...howd the plug look...wet/dry?
you replaced the injectors. Its NOT that uncommon to roll an oring/pinch one and then its game on.
 
  #9  
Old 04-17-2018, 08:35 AM
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If it's a bad injector o ring why only when at operating temp? Hpop new t500, new IPR.

I drove the truck in the morning before I did the work without any problems, but the icp plug was a little wet.

When no start the injector pressure read little over 400psi, but when start I'll get 1200-1800psi cranking, driving and hit it I'll get 3400-3800psi
 
  #10  
Old 04-18-2018, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gdmafia View Post
If it's a bad injector o ring why only when at operating temp?
When I change the oil on any of my vehicles, I get them to full operating temp before I pull the plug. This makes the oil flow much faster... just as it would slide more easily past a damaged O-ring.
 
  #11  
Old 04-18-2018, 07:28 AM
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Tugly is dead on, a rolled o-ring sounds about right, low hpop pressure I get 1500psi at idle and I know I have to do my injector o-rings again.
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2018, 07:40 AM
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I just had another thought: One common problem with doing injectors is excessive knocking and long starts within a few hundred miles. The knocking comes from an injector hold-down bolt that works loose. I have since learned to hot-torque my injectors, and I have read where others have benefited from this practice.

So... have you noticed a lot of new knocks?
 
  #13  
Old 04-18-2018, 08:28 AM
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I like to say it fixed it self as I don't think there is such thing, but all day yesterday it started within 2-3 seconds at pretty much any temp, cold, hot and in between.
At times it's not as smooth at idle as I think it should be.

So I need 1500psi at idle?

I'll check the hold downs. If more knocking, it's on and off.
 
  #14  
Old 04-18-2018, 08:32 AM
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At 1500rpm?? If your located in some type of winter freeze in late April...check oil level, done hutch mod...blah blah
 
  #15  
Old 04-19-2018, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gdmafia View Post
...So I need 1500psi at idle?
Idle PSI when cold is 700 or so, then it goes to 500 when warm. Once you're tuned, then those numbers are at the discretion of your tuner. Lower is quieter.
 

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