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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

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  #31  
Old 05-14-2018, 09:51 AM
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how's the cam sensor??
 
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  #32  
Old 05-14-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Rowe Sr. View Post
how's the cam sensor??
Not sure Josh. I don't no of any good way to test it. Probably easier to just replace it. Never hurts to have a spare anyway. I always had a spare in Jeep.
 
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  #33  
Old 05-14-2018, 06:46 PM
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Had same issue when I woke up this morning, changed cam, cranked right up
 
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  #34  
Old 05-20-2018, 06:03 AM
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Just another update. I do have the new cam sensor sitting here on my desk but not sure I am going to put it in right away. The more I drive the truck after replacing all the other stuff I listed the better it is getting. The last thing was the IPR sensor I changed. I really need to get the truck out on the road rather than just running it around the farm here but have been busy with other stuff. The truck is now starting within what seems to be a second or two. I probably with go ahead an change the cam sensor as the one that is in it is original and 18 years old.
 
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  #35  
Old 06-12-2018, 09:57 PM
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Update
Had some time to tinker with it, starts and run fair, but have a knock when at operating temp. I don't think it's a mechanical knock as it's louder when warm and I can feel the pulsing in the lines for the fuel cross over.
I replaced the ICP in the head, I rebuild the new IPR in the oil pump, I checked injector hold down bolts torqued to spec, I checked all plugs and connector, I checked height of injector and found #6 sit a little higher than the rest, pulled it, didn't look like any blow by of any kind, replaced orings and checked for copper washer in cup, nothing, reinstall and still sit high. I do have small amount of oil sitting in front part of valley, but not wet to the back. I change the spring in the fuel cross over to the lightest only felt like little less power and for sure little higher exhaust temp 50-100.
Is it possible it's the new Terminator hpop or do I start pop all the injectors, got new orings for all just in case, also has old hpop.
 
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  #36  
Old 06-12-2018, 11:06 PM
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As far as the long cold crank is concerned, have you checked to see if the HPOP reservoir is full before you try to start? If the check ball leaks and the oil level is down in the reservoir it could be part of your long crank issue.
 
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  #37  
Old 06-13-2018, 12:01 AM
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The check ball, that should been replaced/tested as they build the hpop at terminator. I send them my old pump and it is the same I got back looking new and nice.
 
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  #38  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:03 AM
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I won't make any assumptions but they way I read it hydro man 17 might be referring to the check ball in the block.

IIRC it's on the drivers side and is an anti-drain back to prevent the HPOP reservoir from draining back into the sump when the engine is turned off and there's no oil pressure.
 
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  #39  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:38 AM
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Brian42 is correct. Apologizes for not being more specific.
 
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  #40  
Old 06-13-2018, 06:35 PM
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Ok, so is that likely it got damage when I replaced injector and hpop?
 
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  #41  
Old 06-14-2018, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by gdmafia View Post
Ok, so is that likely it got damage when I replaced injector and hpop?
No, not likely at all.

It's in the engine block. It's not likely that it's failed (or leaking by) but it has happened.
 
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