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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

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Long cranking + 5-10 sec or no start

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  #16  
Old 04-19-2018, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gdmafia View Post
If it's a bad injector o ring why only when at operating temp? Hpop new t500, new IPR.

I drove the truck in the morning before I did the work without any problems, but the icp plug was a little wet.

When no start the injector pressure read little over 400psi, but when start I'll get 1200-1800psi cranking, driving and hit it I'll get 3400-3800psi
Oil seeping thru the ICP sensor means it's dying. Blast of carb cleaner may clear it up, for a while. A log of ICP psi and duty cycle should look sketchy when you have the problem, like that low 400psi. Ford or IH only on this part.

Also inspect the wires to the ICP carefully since that will mess with the reported voltage as well.

Might as well inspect the underside of the harness to the 42 pin connector while you're there. It can rub on the valve cover and cause random intermittent shorts.
 
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2018, 08:00 AM
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sounds like you can still be working some of the air out of the system after the injector swap. Give it another 50+ miles or so.you don't want 3400-3800 ICP, that's too high. she needs to top out around 3100 IMO.
 
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:01 AM
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Stock injectors?

Running a chip/tunes?
 
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  #19  
Old 04-19-2018, 08:31 AM
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I'll get 800psi in the morning, when warm 600psi at idle, I'll check wires and injector hold downs on Saturday.

Stock injectors, I do have an Edge tuner, but on stock ever since replacing stuff.
 
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  #20  
Old 04-21-2018, 10:04 AM
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I am gonna watch this thread. My 2000 with 67,000 miles started the long crank a few months ago. Does it regardless of hot or cold. I knew I had cold start issue this winter and finally got around to changing the glow plugs. After reading about the Injector o-rings causing long crank conditions I figured while I was there I would go ahead and put new o-rings on them. I just completed that and I still have the long crank condition hot or cold. I am still reading and investigating and watching others with the same issue. Thanks
 
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  #21  
Old 04-24-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by gdmafia View Post
When no start the injector pressure read little over 400psi, but when start I'll get 1200-1800psi cranking, driving and hit it I'll get 3400-3800psi
Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
sounds like you can still be working some of the air out of the system after the injector swap. Give it another 50+ miles or so.you don't want 3400-3800 ICP, that's too high. she needs to top out around 3100 IMO.
I just replaced my injectors a few months ago and had the same concern. Long crank then my numbers were way high at idle and would settle down after a couple of minutes and level out. With the long crank the IPR continues to try and raise HPO pressure to fire the injectors. If you crank long enough the IPR will be full open so when they do fire the ICP jumps to 3K+ psi. Once the HPO spikes the IPR closes down to lower the ICP since it's crazy high for idle. It will take a bit for your truck to oscilllate ("hunt") to the right pressure for conditions. The larger the spike the longer it will take to level out.

It took 150 miles or so before it was a normal-ish start every time. Now when it's cold it starts right up no problem but if my truck is warm it's a little longer (1-2 seconds) but settle down really quick since the IPR isn't wide open when the injectors fire.
 
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  #22  
Old 04-24-2018, 09:57 AM
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Now I have +500 miles on it and when starting I count to no more than 3 before start, less in the morning.
Checked wires and hold downs over the weekend, didn't find anything.
Only thing now, sometimes idle is more knocking/rattling than I like and also rpm goes up and down as when ac turns on, 50-60 rpm
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by purplewg View Post
I am gonna watch this thread. My 2000 with 67,000 miles started the long crank a few months ago. Does it regardless of hot or cold. I knew I had cold start issue this winter and finally got around to changing the glow plugs. After reading about the Injector o-rings causing long crank conditions I figured while I was there I would go ahead and put new o-rings on them. I just completed that and I still have the long crank condition hot or cold. I am still reading and investigating and watching others with the same issue. Thanks

In my experience, the Glow Plug relay or the starter.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by purplewg View Post
I just completed that and I still have the long crank condition hot or cold. I am still reading and investigating and watching others with the same issue. Thanks
Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
In my experience, the Glow Plug relay or the starter.
Does it crank slower or is it just a longer crank to get it started? I had a "long crank" condition (I'm almost 50 but that still makes me smile) several years ago. It cranked longer and slower the longer it sat between starts. Turned out to be my starter was dying (and took the batteries with it). If it's still cranking at normal speed and just taking longer to actually fire then it would most likely be something else. Just my .02
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 02:09 PM
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Yes, not slower but longer cranking times but the starter sounded good to me. replaced the glow plugs, the glow plug relay and the UVC harness. Still longer cranking times. The Strange part was it sounded like it was cranking at a speed that was just fine, but in reality it wasnít. When I took the starter out of the (Excursion) and threw it in the F250 with my problems were solved. I was thinking all kinds of other thoughts at the time like oil draining, high pressure oil pump problems, ICP sensor, IPR, fuel.........
 
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2018, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
In my experience, the Glow Plug relay or the starter.
Thanks white Buffalo. Yeah, I have the glow plugs working now. Tested with a meter. Starter spins like a champ. Will keep watching.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42 View Post
Does it crank slower or is it just a longer crank to get it started? I had a "long crank" condition (I'm almost 50 but that still makes me smile) several years ago. It cranked longer and slower the longer it sat between starts. Turned out to be my starter was dying (and took the batteries with it). If it's still cranking at normal speed and just taking longer to actually fire then it would most likely be something else. Just my .02
Thanks Brian. Still cranks the engine over fast. Just spins much longer than it used to.
 
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by white Buffalo View Post
Yes, not slower but longer cranking times but the starter sounded good to me. replaced the glow plugs, the glow plug relay and the UVC harness. Still longer cranking times. The Strange part was it sounded like it was cranking at a speed that was just fine, but in reality it wasnít. When I took the starter out of the (Excursion) and threw it in the F250 with my problems were solved. I was thinking all kinds of other thoughts at the time like oil draining, high pressure oil pump problems, ICP sensor, IPR, fuel.........
I will definitely keep that in mind. My new ICP sensor hasn't shown up yet. I know it is bad as it is full of oil. Will keep you posted.
 
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  #29  
Old 05-02-2018, 07:10 AM
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Ok, just an update. Took a while for the ICP sensor to get here. It came by Pony Express I think. So, I put it in and the conditions seemed to have changed some. First start in the morning it spins long still. I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off, turn the key again and within 2 spins it is running. Next I let it warm up good, drove to the barn, let it set for 15 minutes there and when I went to start it, it took about 10 spins to start. Drove it back to the house, turned it off, hit the key and varoom started right up. When I ordered the ICP I ordered a IPR rebuild kit but I haven't put that in yet. No oil anywhere on top of the engine. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
 
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  #30  
Old 05-13-2018, 06:38 AM
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Ok another update on my issue of long crank. I was gonna rebuild the IPR but made the mistake of over tightening the inside center piece and bent the little one inch pin inside. My insert went in kind of tight and I didn't feel it bottom. lol Anyway, I ordered a Ford IPR valve and put it in yesterday. Having watched every YouTube video on this I thought it might not be too bad. I guess all 7.3s don't have their hard lines running the same way as I couldn't use any of the "quick and dirty" means. I ended up modifying an 1 1/8th inch box end wrench and got it replaced. Yep, you guessed it. I still have the long crank condition. Here is what I have done so far.
Replaced all o-rings on injectors (didn't find any that looked bad)
Replaced all glow plugs (figured while in that deep why not)
Replaced ICP
Replaced IPR

Not sure what to attack next.
 
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