Help needed in Willis, TX !! 99 7.3L F350 crank, no start
#1
Help needed in Willis, TX !! 99 7.3L F350 crank, no start
My husband and I have been working on our 99 7.3L F350 for over a month now and haven't been able to get it up and running mainly because we lack the testing equipment needed for us to proceed to the next step in the troubleshooting process. We found someone local with all the gauges but last night was the 3rd time he failed to show up and we just can't afford any more empty promises. This is our one and only means of transportation as well as our service truck as we work on Harley Davidson's in and around the Houston area. Is there anyone out there willing and able to help us? We would appreciate all the help we can get. We can be reached at (713) 261-8237. Please only call if you have the proper equipment & are willing to travel to Willis. Don't mean to be rude just that we are tired of hearing a bunch of useless ideas and empty promises. It has been a very discouraging experience and we are on the verge of giving up if things don't make a turn for the best. The truck cranks, no start. Checked the batteries-good, it's getting fuel, new CPS, checked injectors- good and new starter solenoid. At this point of the game we need the high pressure gauges to continue.
#2
Here is a link to no start troubleshooting Ford's diesel engines. Scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page to the 7.3 and follow it. An OBDII adapter and ForScan software for your tablet, iPad or laptop is not expensive. With iProducts you'll need a WIFI adapter and use a bluetooth adapter with the others. I can also connect my laptop using the WIFI adapter.
#3
Here is a link to no start troubleshooting Ford's diesel engines. Scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page to the 7.3 and follow it. An OBDII adapter and ForScan software for your tablet, iPad or laptop is not expensive. With iProducts you'll need a WIFI adapter and use a bluetooth adapter with the others. I can also connect my laptop using the WIFI adapter.
#4
#5
Welcome to FTE!
I am nowhere near you, but just wanted to let you know you have found a great place for help. I see it here every day.
That said, it may take a few days of back and forth to get you set up with the right scanner and software, perhaps an Android phone or tablet or laptop with an OBD2 dongle and TorquePro or Forscan.
And even better would be a member who is close to you and can come pull some data.
Seriously, stick here a few days and work the problem a step at a time.
Going to read your post again, and see if I can actually be helpful rather than simply providing encouragement.
I am nowhere near you, but just wanted to let you know you have found a great place for help. I see it here every day.
That said, it may take a few days of back and forth to get you set up with the right scanner and software, perhaps an Android phone or tablet or laptop with an OBD2 dongle and TorquePro or Forscan.
And even better would be a member who is close to you and can come pull some data.
Seriously, stick here a few days and work the problem a step at a time.
Going to read your post again, and see if I can actually be helpful rather than simply providing encouragement.
#6
OK, your engine is cold and will not start. You are in Texas, so it is not really very cold there, but the engine is certainly not warm.
So this puts me into my 7.3 cold start mode.
Which means glow plug system. I could start my truck in the summer even with failed parts, but it was a bear in the morning. I also have a chip in mine, and it would not start with the stock tune, needed to go up the dial to get a cold start.
Does your truck have a chip? Just for background info...
Back to glow plugs. Unless you have a California vehicle, there is a glow plug relay on top of the engine. If you have a voltmeter, it is easy to test.
But first... Key in ignition, turn to on (not crank) position. Does the WTS (Wait To Start) light on the dash come for about six seconds.
Some more info on this... The light goes out after about six seconds, but the glow plugs will stay on for up to two minutes depending on temperature. Even though the dash light turned off.
Dash light is good? Get under the hood and find the relay on top of the engine. It has two big clubs and two small lugs. One of the big lugs should read battery voltage, even with the key off. The other lug should read (almost) battery voltage for at least six seconds and up to two minutes after the key is switched to on.
About that battery voltage... When the glow plugs are on, the battery voltage will drop by about a full volt. If the batteries are weak, this can also cause a failure to start. Mentioning it, but don't worry about it yet. All of the tests lead to the destination.
So lets start with that.
- Does the WTS light do what it is supposed to do?
- What is your battery voltage with key off?
- What is your battery voltage for the first 6 seconds with key on?
- Is this the same voltage on the always-hot lug of the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)?
- What is the voltage on the other (switched) big GPR lug when the key is on?
- How long does the voltage stay on on the switched GPR lug?
The idea here is to work on proving the glow plug system works, just to rule it out.
And another simple thing that will stop the 7.3 from starting. Check the engine oil level. Low oil will stop the engine from running.
So this puts me into my 7.3 cold start mode.
Which means glow plug system. I could start my truck in the summer even with failed parts, but it was a bear in the morning. I also have a chip in mine, and it would not start with the stock tune, needed to go up the dial to get a cold start.
Does your truck have a chip? Just for background info...
Back to glow plugs. Unless you have a California vehicle, there is a glow plug relay on top of the engine. If you have a voltmeter, it is easy to test.
But first... Key in ignition, turn to on (not crank) position. Does the WTS (Wait To Start) light on the dash come for about six seconds.
Some more info on this... The light goes out after about six seconds, but the glow plugs will stay on for up to two minutes depending on temperature. Even though the dash light turned off.
Dash light is good? Get under the hood and find the relay on top of the engine. It has two big clubs and two small lugs. One of the big lugs should read battery voltage, even with the key off. The other lug should read (almost) battery voltage for at least six seconds and up to two minutes after the key is switched to on.
About that battery voltage... When the glow plugs are on, the battery voltage will drop by about a full volt. If the batteries are weak, this can also cause a failure to start. Mentioning it, but don't worry about it yet. All of the tests lead to the destination.
So lets start with that.
- Does the WTS light do what it is supposed to do?
- What is your battery voltage with key off?
- What is your battery voltage for the first 6 seconds with key on?
- Is this the same voltage on the always-hot lug of the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)?
- What is the voltage on the other (switched) big GPR lug when the key is on?
- How long does the voltage stay on on the switched GPR lug?
The idea here is to work on proving the glow plug system works, just to rule it out.
And another simple thing that will stop the 7.3 from starting. Check the engine oil level. Low oil will stop the engine from running.
#7
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#10
Also verify that the IPR plug is in place and the tin nut has not backed off.
Have you followed this chart?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
Was it an out of the blue no start condition or did it get progressively worse over the course of a week?
Have you followed this chart?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
Was it an out of the blue no start condition or did it get progressively worse over the course of a week?
#15
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