Disconnecting fuel line
#1
Disconnecting fuel line
Finally got some time to do my hutch harpoon mod, but I cannot figure out how to remove the line from pump to tank. Doesn't seem to be a hairpin clip as there's nothing on the other side, just flat plastic. There's no room to get fuel line disconnect tool in there. Tried pushing on the blue tab. Is there some trick to this? I think I'm not doing something right.
#3
That looks like the hair pin clip that you spread from the bottom and it pulls up from that tab. Mine is not like that, as you notice from the picture. There is nothing on the back side of the blue tab.
#4
#6
Posted a picture, did it not come thru? I will try to get a couple more and post them. Mine did not have the triangular looking lift tab as your picture shows.
Didn't look like a type of clip that was meant to be lifted up, but looked like it was meant to be pushed in. Will try to see if it can be pried up.
Didn't look like a type of clip that was meant to be lifted up, but looked like it was meant to be pushed in. Will try to see if it can be pried up.
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#10
If I might inquire..... So the photo that Hooter posted that shows this Blue "tab". Can I assume we are seeing the side of it that is (closed) and if we saw 180 degrees the other side of it we would see some open space between the blue plastic that we could (as Tug said), pry open with a small screwdriver? Can I further assume if we are replacing this part of the fuel hose with a short piece of rubber hose to go to a newly installed Racor fuel filter output fitting, It really does not matter if we break & destroy this portion of (clip) or even if we just cut off the fuel line to just get it out of the way while we are destroying this clip for removal?
Can I also assume this is all very different than the way the fuel line installs on the fuel tank cap that REQUIRES the "special" fuel line disconnect tool? And that when doing the Hutch (I can't remember), you (usually) still want some portion of the OEM connection back to the tank cap OR are we installing new fuel hose at the cap too because we want to eliminate the air suck leaks the OEM quick connects are known for? (Maybe this is just on the supply line and not a concern for the return line?
DDT
How about this photo....It seems to show the "blue part" AND the white part of a clip, Still covered with the black outer wrapping? Or is that not how they really attach?
Last edited by dieseldogtom; 04-15-2018 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Edit Text
#11
OK, yes, I would say that you see the feet of the white clip in that picture. You can help push the clip out by pushing on those legs. And you can leave the OEM quick disconnect on the return line at the top of the tank and only replace the feed line, that is the one that is susceptible to leaking.
#12
#14
Sorry I wasn't able to get back to you yesterday. Work issues.
This is a picture of the pump,
back side
Doesn't matter, I ended up breaking it trying to get it off. It looked like it needed the disconnect tool, but I couldn't get it in there.
Anyway, here was the finished product
Here is the Racor
Turned key on about 5 or 6 times to prime the lines, started right up. Drove to gas station and put in 31 gal diesel. Drove around for 15 miles, no problems. Came home and checked for any leaks, didn't find any so I think I'm good.
If anyone knows how to disconnect that line, chime in in case someone else has the same problem I did.
This is a picture of the pump,
back side
Doesn't matter, I ended up breaking it trying to get it off. It looked like it needed the disconnect tool, but I couldn't get it in there.
Anyway, here was the finished product
Here is the Racor
Turned key on about 5 or 6 times to prime the lines, started right up. Drove to gas station and put in 31 gal diesel. Drove around for 15 miles, no problems. Came home and checked for any leaks, didn't find any so I think I'm good.
If anyone knows how to disconnect that line, chime in in case someone else has the same problem I did.
#15
[QUOTE=dieseldogtom;17928684]
If I might inquire..... So the photo that Hooter posted that shows this Blue "tab". Can I assume we are seeing the side of it that is (closed) and if we saw 180 degrees the other side of it we would see some open space between the blue plastic that we could (as Tug said), pry open with a small screwdriver? Can I further assume if we are replacing this part of the fuel hose with a short piece of rubber hose to go to a newly installed Racor fuel filter output fitting, It really does not matter if we break & destroy this portion of (clip) or even if we just cut off the fuel line to just get it out of the way while we are destroying this clip for removal?
Can I also assume this is all very different than the way the fuel line installs on the fuel tank cap that REQUIRES the "special" fuel line disconnect tool? And that when doing the Hutch (I can't remember), you (usually) still want some portion of the OEM connection back to the tank cap OR are we installing new fuel hose at the cap too because we want to eliminate the air suck leaks the OEM quick connects are known for? (Maybe this is just on the supply line and not a concern for the return line?
DDT
I re used the 5/16 return quick connect. I ran a new 3/8 hose From the tank to the racor. Was a bear to get it over the hump on the sender line. I finally heated up the tube with a heat gun to soften it up, then used some lucas fuel treatment to help slide it over the hump and an inch past the hump, then double clamped.
If I might inquire..... So the photo that Hooter posted that shows this Blue "tab". Can I assume we are seeing the side of it that is (closed) and if we saw 180 degrees the other side of it we would see some open space between the blue plastic that we could (as Tug said), pry open with a small screwdriver? Can I further assume if we are replacing this part of the fuel hose with a short piece of rubber hose to go to a newly installed Racor fuel filter output fitting, It really does not matter if we break & destroy this portion of (clip) or even if we just cut off the fuel line to just get it out of the way while we are destroying this clip for removal?
Can I also assume this is all very different than the way the fuel line installs on the fuel tank cap that REQUIRES the "special" fuel line disconnect tool? And that when doing the Hutch (I can't remember), you (usually) still want some portion of the OEM connection back to the tank cap OR are we installing new fuel hose at the cap too because we want to eliminate the air suck leaks the OEM quick connects are known for? (Maybe this is just on the supply line and not a concern for the return line?
DDT
I re used the 5/16 return quick connect. I ran a new 3/8 hose From the tank to the racor. Was a bear to get it over the hump on the sender line. I finally heated up the tube with a heat gun to soften it up, then used some lucas fuel treatment to help slide it over the hump and an inch past the hump, then double clamped.