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I need good news on this coolant

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I need good news on this coolant

  #46  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Meat27 View Post
UPDATE:

........ The #3 cylinder has a crack just above the injector cup on the manifold side.

...........

Another addition to the data base of head cracks being 3 or 5.
 
  #47  
Old 07-30-2018, 09:15 PM
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The metal thickness of the head that separates the coolant passageway from the injector bore is thinner on the middle two cylinders than the end ones (on both heads).

This makes #3 and #5 vulnerable, as well as #4 and #6.

Jack are you seeing more on the passenger side than the drivers side?
 
  #48  
Old 07-30-2018, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by FiznUKa View Post
Remove the center stub for the filter in the housing. Then note which side the bubbles come from that will tell you what side has the issue.
Bubbles are coming from the passenger side.
Just to see what happens with the contribution code I switched #2 & #4 injectors. Should I take the Valve Cover off when testing the Passenger side (glow plud removed)?
 
  #49  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:08 PM
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Mark, yeah I get why the center two, especially if the head was overheated. I haven’t taken a database but from rememberance it seems to be the pass side.

We’ve touched on this before. Broken record.

My career history is to observe trends and then start to SWAG into possibilities. Big SWAG. If it tends to be 3-5 and I think more 3, why? So I go back to AKBlackfoot’s puke problem with altered programming, solved without the programming or adding the extra cooling flow from the back of the heads. Is this the same causation? Kind of based on 2006 discussions with AutoJim and your mentioning nucleate boiling.

Can we expect that coolant flow through the blocks and thereby heads are equal on both the driver and passenger side ...... usually not and if not is there a deficentcy on one side that under some conditions is problematic. Heads aren’t handed. Is this the reason that INT and therefore Ford is so insistent on not thinning the heads less the 3.740”? It’s not limited to 2003 design level with the smaller water pump.

i wish I paid more attention to if either head was more prone to have a head gasket leak.

The rabbit hole goes deep, I gotta go make an aluminum hat out of tin foil.



 
  #50  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Meat27 View Post
Bubbles are coming from the passenger side.
Just to see what happens with the contribution code I switched #2 & #4 injectors. Should I take the Valve Cover off when testing the Passenger side (glow plud removed)?

No need to remove the valve cover but i suppose it has to come off eventually. Just remove the glow plugs one at a time but make sure to continue the test on the whole bank because you could have more than one bad injector.
 
  #51  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys. View Post
Mark, yeah I get why the center two, especially if the head was overheated. I haven’t taken a database but from rememberance it seems to be the pass side.

We’ve touched on this before. Broken record.

My career history is to observe trends and then start to SWAG into possibilities. Big SWAG. If it tends to be 3-5 and I think more 3, why? So I go back to AKBlackfoot’s puke problem with altered programming, solved without the programming or adding the extra cooling flow from the back of the heads. Is this the same causation? Kind of based on 2006 discussions with AutoJim and your mentioning nucleate boiling.

Can we expect that coolant flow through the blocks and thereby heads are equal on both the driver and passenger side ...... usually not and if not is there a deficentcy on one side that under some conditions is problematic. Heads aren’t handed. Is this the reason that INT and therefore Ford is so insistent on not thinning the heads less the 3.740”? It’s not limited to 2003 design level with the smaller water pump.

i wish I paid more attention to if either head was more prone to have a head gasket leak.

The rabbit hole goes deep, I gotta go make an aluminum hat out of tin foil.



nice post .
 
  #52  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:52 PM
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I was just about to delete it ......
 
  #53  
Old 07-31-2018, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by FiznUKa View Post



No need to remove the valve cover but i suppose it has to come off eventually. Just remove the glow plugs one at a time but make sure to continue the test on the whole bank because you could have more than one bad injector.
What should I be looking to come out of the glow plug hole if it's the bad cylinder?
 
  #54  
Old 07-31-2018, 06:13 AM
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Removing the glow plug relieves the compression on that cylinder so combustion air should not bypass the injector and therefore no bubbles. Pulling one at a time allows you to find where the problem cylinder is.
 
  #55  
Old 08-01-2018, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys. View Post
Removing the glow plug relieves the compression on that cylinder so combustion air should not bypass the injector and therefore no bubbles. Pulling one at a time allows you to find where the problem cylinder is.
So #3 is the culprit, which just happens to be the injector I changed the housing on and replaced the injector cup with Accurate Diesel's repair. #1 and #5 gave a few bubbles but I cranked it for a long time to get them. #7 was good. I'll check the Tq of those three and then pull #3 and inspect it.
 
  #56  
Old 08-12-2018, 12:56 PM
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I changed the o-rings and crush washers on #1, #3 and #5. #1 and #5 sealed but #3 didn't. I took apart #3 to check the seal separating the upper and lower sections of the injector. According to the directions the only thing I missed was to add grease to the injector tip. I only had Moly and assembly lube, I went with assembly lube. Put it back together TQ to 26 lbs-ft and no more bubbles. I had the charge the batteries overnight so I'm gonna give it one more test before I fully re-assemble the right head.

Should I have used the Moly instead?
If this doesn't stay sealed is there anything else I can do beside replacing the head? I would have to reach out to Accurate Diesel but I don't think the full cup can be replaced.
 
  #57  
Old 08-17-2018, 02:35 PM
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Couldn't get the engine to run right, took it to a shop nearby. #4 had a bent rod which took care of most to all the problems and After the engine warms up #3 injector stops working. Mechanic has taken care of the rod and is working the injector. Also having him do a tranny service while it's in the shop.
 
  #58  
Old 11-08-2018, 03:43 PM
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Sorry for leaving this one hanging. So the #3 injector was bad, the mechanic replaced it and serviced the transmission while it was in the shop. It's running like a dream ever since. Now to start researching Dif ratios for upgrading the tire size. Had 265s, put on 275s with the factory 3.73. LS rear. Looking to increase tire size to either a 295 or 33 x 10.5 for the next tire change. Just need to figure out the right diff ratio. Thanks for the help fellas!
 
  #59  
Old 11-09-2018, 01:13 AM
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Why are you going to taller tires? Extra clearance on the trails?
 
  #60  
Old 11-09-2018, 09:33 AM
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markw365, Yes for the most part. I eventually plan to use my truck for overland/ camping purposes, so a bed mounted rack system with a tent mounted on top. All the fun places in Colorado don't have hotels and are extremely difficult to get to with a trailer. This is what I'm looking to do with the bed rack and tent; https://nuthouseindustries.com/shop/racks/nutzo-tech-2/.

Additionally, the 265s looked like cookie cutters and I want to balance the stance a little better. I'm not willing to sacrifice performance/economy by just increasing tire size and not addressing the diff ratio. I still want to be able to tow if need be. I'm also looking at possiblely getting a car trailer for an old Land Cruiser I have that is set up for overland operations and I would like to take it to Moab, Glacier National Park, etc..
 
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