After a much needed fuel filter change on my 1996 Ford Ranger 3.0L, I started the engine right up with no problems, checked for any leaks and turned the engine off after a couple of minutes. I went down the next day to go for a test drive and now it will not start. Cranks over, but seems like there is no gas. I noticed a vacuum line that I believe was connected to the fuel diaphragm is no longer attached. I hoping this is the problem but having issues finding the L-shaped black connector to put things back together. Any ideas if this would cause the no start problem and where I might find the vaccuum line connector?

 

Welcome to FTE.
Good trouble shooting idea to have raised the hood to have as look in there for other anomalies.
Have a look in a auto parts store "Help" section maybe, or call/look in a good salvage yard, or maybe a knowledgeable Dealer parts man can still order what you need, even if its from a another engine/model year Ford/same for the salvage yard man if you can find a good one in your area
Is this a "Flex Fuel" 3.0L?.
If replacing the line doesn't solve the no start problem, scan the computer for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

@PAWPAW, Thanks for the useful reply. I did find the rubber L vacuum connectors at auto parts store - Dorman PN 47431 for an assortment, one of which fit perfectly. The truck has sat for about a week without trying to start, but after I hooked the vacuum line back up, it started right up on the first try. I ran it up and down the side street and also had it idling smoothly for about 15-25 mins. Turned it back off and now it will not start again - that line may have been off before so I was never sure if it was the real problem.
No, it is NOT a 'flex fuel" ..not sure they even had the term back then.
I really need to get a good computer scanner - any suggestions on the best one to get for this old '96 Ranger 3.0 L? I will see if there are any posts along those lines on this forum, but would appreciate any suggestions from people who have used them on this truck or things to look out for. Thanks again and will update once I get some codes.

 

Ok good to hear you got the vacuum line reconnected. On the reluctant no restart, try cycling the ignition switch from Off to On three or four times before cranking the engine for a start. If it'll then restart without hesitation, suspect the fuel pump may have grown wimpy from having to pump gas through the clogged filter you just changed!!!
When you run into the no start condition, hook up your fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail Schrader valve test port & measure KOEO fuel pressure when it won't start. Then measure it after 3-4 On-Off ignition switch cycles. Cycle the ignition switch On, long enough for the fuel pump to run & shut off (about 2 seconds), then repeat 3-4 times. If pressure comes up after cycling, suspect the fuel pump. Then watch the fuel pressure to see if its bleeding off quickly, if so, inspect FPR vacuum line, if wet inside with fuel, replace FPR, if not, suspect the fuel pump check valve is leaking, replace fuel pump.

Seeing as how this in a 96, it should be OBD-2 diagnostics, that has the DLC in the cab by the steering wheel column, so the inexpensive ELM scan tool, running FORScan diagnostic software that's tweaked for Fords is recommended for our electronic tool box as discussed here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html. The combo is a Very powerful but inexpensive addition for the electronic tool box of those of us that like diagnosing & turning wrenches on our vehicle woes. More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

@Pawpaw - Thanks again for the support. I had tried cycling the ignition switch On but didn't do it 3-4 times which proved to be the hidden trick. After the 4th cycle this morning, the truck started again and I was able to drive it off the side road, and thankfully, back into my driveway. The check engine light is on now so I should get some useful codes - the ELM is on order and I have already downloaded the FORScan sw, so I should be back at it in a couple of days. There is definitely a stink when getting out of the truck, not gas, so no worries, but there is something that needs a fixin. My fuel pressure gauge doesn't exist, what pressure range should I get - some go only to 15 while others up to 100psi? Or should I just hold off until I get some codes?

 

Ok good to hear you got it off the road & back home where you can continue your trouble shoot & now have a lit CEL whose trouble code clues may shed some more light on your trouble shoot, in case you have more than one problem.
While your waiting on the ELM delivery, you could disconnect the repaired FPR vacuum line to see if its wet inside with fuel, if it is, as suggested above, suspect the FPR diaphragm is leaking fuel into the vacuum line & that fuel is being sucked into the intake manifold, corrupting fuel trim. So if thats the case, replace the FPR.
If no joy there, you could try your local auto parts store "Loan-A-Tool" program to see if they have a fuel pressure gauge to loan, or maybe you have a friend, neighbor, family member with one that you could make loan of, or you could buy one from Harbor freight for about $20 like here. https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html. I had to apply ptfe ribbon dope to the thread connections on mine to prevent them from weeping fuel, but it worked ok after that, measuring fuel pressure & pressure leak down over time on my 94 Taurus.
KOEO fuel pressure is 35-45 psi. At idle with the FPR vacuum hose Attached, 25-35 psi. At idle, with the FPR vacuum hose Detached & plugged, 35-45 psi.
If you have a multi-meter, you could measure under load voltage drop to the fuel pump at the in cabin inertia switch Just in case the fuel pump relay contacts are burned up from the pump trying to push fuel through that clogged fuel filter you replaced. If you come to suspect the fuel pump power relay, try swapping it out for a like one not needed to run the engine & see how it goes. I'd also try thumping the inertia switch to trip it, then reset it so it's internal contacts are in a different position, in case they've been overheated & oxidized, causing a under load voltage drop across its connection.
Some thoughts for consideration while you wait for the ELM delivery, let us know what you find.

 

I have the ELM and FORScan running on my laptop, ran some tests and saved them hoping to get the codes to discuss but can't find them anywhere. FORScan looks like great SW but I have no idea how to use it for even the most basic- like getting a code I can understand and work with. I also got the fuel pressure gauge from HF but have not hooked it up yet - too many spring projects getting in the way. Hopefully later today, I will get time to write down what's coming out of FORScan so I can pass it along and get some idea of the fuel pressure. It seems to be running better each time I start it and did not have to do the cycling ignition trick the last time, it did a rough start with just the turn of the key. Will update later.

 

KOEO fuel pressure is 30 and dropping which could be from the pressure gauge although I finally got it to stop leaking. It might have been at 35 before I got under the hood to look at it. I can't check the idle pressure because I already got my one start of the morning, the cycle ignition trick didn't work on trying to start it a second time this morning. It seems like if it sits over night, it will start the next morning which is exactly why I changed the fuel filter to begin with from a recommendation from a friend.
Do you have any suggestions on how to set FORScan up to check out why it's not starting? Attaching the log from the other day when it was running - but no sure if it will post correctly.

 

I'd begin with finding out what gives with what's causing the 9.6 volts Low Battery Voltage code B-1318. All kinds of strange electrical things can happen with under load voltage drop that low, which we'd get with a wimpy battery, or corrupt battery cable connections.
Begin with inspecting the battery electrolyte level & SOC with a hydrometer, if you have removable battery cell caps, or if you don't, perform a ocv test with your multi-meter on the 20 vdc range, to get an idea of the battery SOC = State Of Charge. Its not as telling as a hydrometer test of each cell, but if you don't have removable cell caps, that's about all you can do at this point.
If ocv is ok, check the battery cable connections on Both ends, All need to be Clean, Bright & Tight. Then, to perform a home made under load voltage drop test by turning on some heavy electrical loads, like head & fog lights, cigar lighter pushed in, blower motor on High speed, while measuring battery voltage across the posts. If the battery cables & connections, OCV & SOC check ok, but Under Load battery voltage drops below 10 volts, suspect sulfated battery plates causing a internal high resistance condition. Maybe try a really slow battery recharge, say at 2-6 amps, using a computer controlled smart battery charger, so to get a really deep acid penetration over a longer time re-charge & see if it'll break down the sulfation & cause things to improve. If they do, have a auto parts store test the charging system & the Freshly Recharged battery, it's capacity may be degraded from sulfation & may need to be replaced & or the alternator may be acting out & not able to properly recharge the battery.
Some beginning trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I will follow your suggestions on checking out the battery. I already did clean up the + terminal at the battery right after the fuel filter change because it had a little of the horrid white powder showing,- other side was fine as usual. The low voltage reading didn't surprise me because the truck has NOT been run a descent distance/time in over 3 weeks, meanwhile there have been many attempted starts with little time charging so I expected it to be low on the charge. The battery is a couple of years old but should still be up to the task (side note: the original battery that came with the truck lasted over ten years - Ford got my admiration on that one alone even if they didn't have a thing to do with building the battery). I will check the cell levels and put my low-amp charger on it over night. Don't think I will stress test until it's got some juice back in it. I'm sure it will start up in the morning, and this time, will have the ECM ready for another set of codes to see if anything has changed. I'd like to take it for a drive and a good charge but really don't want to get stuck out on the road somewhere.

 

Don't drive it to recharge the battery, use a Smart/Computer controlled battery charger after your certain the cells are covered with distilled or deionized water.. Our alternator isn't designed nor rated to charge a flat battery, as it wants to pump mucho amps into a low battery, thus can over heat & damage both the alternator & battery on a long recharge. Our alternator is designed to quickly recharge/top off our battery after a start, or other short term battery drain.

 

As mentioned earlier, I had to wrap my fuel pressure gauge hose threads with PTFE ribbon dope to stop their weeping, so I could get a good accurate leak down test over time. That was 9 years ago & they're still leak tight.
Will be interesting to hear what codes are found After the battery recharge & another restart attempt.
It takes Air, Fuel, Spark & Compression to make em run, so when they don't, we're missing one or more of those essential things.
If you come to suspect spark, use your inductive timing light on any plug wire, to Safely test for spark.

 

After last night charge there was 12+ volts DC at the battery this morning. Truck started right up, fuel pressure gauge was 30psi while engine running, but more leaks so I shutdown right away (I still need to tape all the fittings). I did save the new codes which do look different from the other day, other than the battery volts came up low again.There is a MAP sensor error that came up but I think I caused that when I checked the air filter and didn't tighten up one of the hold clamps.
I was barely able to get a second re-startup after removing the pressure gauge but was able to get it going and took it up & down the side road only to get the rain water out of the bed. Sure sounds like it is running smooth but once I shut if off again it will not start back up - same as before. The codes I can live with for a month until inspection but I need to be able to have a dependable re-start. Can you see anything that would indicate a startup issue?

 

You still have low battery voltage. Disconnect the battery B- cable & recharge the battery, as you have codes indicating shorts to ground that could be negating the recharge attempts. If the battery will take a recharge after disconnecting the B- cable, you likely have excessive parasitic drain from other electrical system problems that'll need to be run down & put right before reconnecting the battery for any length of time, or they'll just drain the battery again.

12 volts after a recharge, says the battery is only at a 40-50% soc. So it didn't stay on charge long enough for the amp setting you chose, or the battery plates are seriously sulfated, or the parasitic load equals, or is exceeding the recharge amp selection, so not much recharge is happening.
If the battery won't take, or hold a charge very long after being disconnected from the vehicle, it's internal cells are likely sulfated & shorting out internally. It may be history. You could take it to your favorite auto parts store & have them try recharging it on their equipment, then testing its capacity after a full recharge on their equip & see how it goes.

If you end up buying a new battery, without further delay, take the vehicle back to the trusted store & have them perform their no cost Vehicle electrical system charging check up & post the results. You could also have an alternator problem

SO, once you know the battery, alternator & wiring are ok, look to finding & fixing the short codes before leaving the battery connected to the vehicle for any length of time, lest the parasitic drain draw down the new, or recharged battery.
Once the battery charge & alternator are known to be good we are to work & put right the lowest Number trouble code first & work our way up the list.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.