Need help with a 1965 240
#16
04-10-2018, 02:22 PM
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Hmmm. Didn’t see a part number. It was listed as 1963-1965 200 and 240 NOS Distributor tune up kit. The pick showed a blue and gray FoMoCo box, could be a metal can.
#17
04-10-2018, 04:40 PM
200 introduced in 1964, 240/300 in 1965.
The factory tune-up kits were in red and white Auto-Lite metal cans with a plastic lid. Never seen a blue and grey FoMoCo box.
Post war boxes were red/white, then blue/white with or without blue stripes on them.
Then these blue/white boxes were replaced by another blue/white box w/a 1969 'racing' Mustang fastback on them.
All FoMoCo parts boxes have a part number on them.
#18
04-10-2018, 05:15 PM
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200 introduced in 1964, 240/300 in 1965.
The factory tune-up kits were in red and white Auto-Lite metal cans with a plastic lid. Never seen a blue and grey FoMoCo box.
Post war boxes were red/white, then blue/white with or without blue stripes on them.
Then these blue/white boxes were replaced by another blue/white box w/a 1969 'racing' Mustang fastback on them.
All FoMoCo parts boxes have a part number on them.
The factory tune-up kits were in red and white Auto-Lite metal cans with a plastic lid. Never seen a blue and grey FoMoCo box.
Post war boxes were red/white, then blue/white with or without blue stripes on them.
Then these blue/white boxes were replaced by another blue/white box w/a 1969 'racing' Mustang fastback on them.
All FoMoCo parts boxes have a part number on them.
The number on the block is: C5AE-6015-D
Can you confirm what motor this is. The guy I bought the truck from says it’s a 64, but it’s twin I beam. The drivers door has been replaced so VIN plate is wrong. I need to find the one on the frame.
#19
04-10-2018, 05:55 PM
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Update:
This afternoon I put a parts store condenser in(have a NOS ordered), and hooked the distributor vacuum line back up. I also swapped out the carb base gasket to the one with holes in it. I was able to get it to run for a few seconds at a time and actually rev up without backfiring through the carb. I consider that a small victory. I can’t let it run it long because the original radiator is shot. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement radiator? Stamped on the top of the original is:
C5TA-H
P-MO
64 11
The close thing I have found is from Jegs:
Champion 166-CC6164
The core/overall/inlet/outlet are dang close match.
This afternoon I put a parts store condenser in(have a NOS ordered), and hooked the distributor vacuum line back up. I also swapped out the carb base gasket to the one with holes in it. I was able to get it to run for a few seconds at a time and actually rev up without backfiring through the carb. I consider that a small victory. I can’t let it run it long because the original radiator is shot. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement radiator? Stamped on the top of the original is:
C5TA-H
P-MO
64 11
The close thing I have found is from Jegs:
Champion 166-CC6164
The core/overall/inlet/outlet are dang close match.
#20
04-10-2018, 06:14 PM
We’ll see what it is when it gets here. Do you have a part number I can search?
You post the number, I'll verify if it's correct.
The number on the block is: C5AE-6015-D
Can you confirm what motor this is? The guy I bought the truck from says it’s a 64, but it’s twin I beam.
The drivers door has been replaced so Warranty Plate is wrong. I need to find the VIN on the frame.
You post the number, I'll verify if it's correct.
The number on the block is: C5AE-6015-D
Can you confirm what motor this is? The guy I bought the truck from says it’s a 64, but it’s twin I beam.
The drivers door has been replaced so Warranty Plate is wrong. I need to find the VIN on the frame.
This is the 240/300 block casting number. Since both were introduced in 1965, the truck cannot be a 1964, especially if it has Twin-I-Beam, also introduced in 1965 F100/250 2WD
C5TZ-8005-AC .. 240/300 I-6 Radiator / Marked: C5TA-H / Obsolete
1965 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 with single rear wheels.
1965 F100/250 2WD radiators are not the same as 1966, as the mounting flanges are in a different location. The radiator support is 1965 F100/250 2WD & 1966 F100 4WD only.
#21
04-10-2018, 06:37 PM
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This is the 240/300 block casting number. Since both were introduced in 1965, the truck cannot be a 1964, especially if it has Twin-I-Beam, also introduced in 1965 F100/250 2WD
C5TZ-8005-AC .. 240/300 I-6 Radiator / Marked: C5TA-H / Obsolete
1965 F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 with single rear wheels.
1965 F100/250 2WD radiators are not the same as 1966, as the mounting flanges are in a different location. The radiator support is 1965 F100/250 2WD & 1966 F100 4WD only.
#22
04-10-2018, 07:35 PM
I hate to suggest this, but have you looked on eBay at the Champion line of chinesium aluminium radiators? They come in around 225 bones delivered. A good solid brass replacement is going to be about double that price or more.
And let's back up a second. The el-cheapo aluminum radiators are not repairable.so while the price is nice they are scrap if something happens.
Have you had a radiator guy look at your current original radiator? They can oftentimes repair an OEM type radiator for a very competitive price, compared with new, don't go pricing new ones till you're sure.
And let's back up a second. The el-cheapo aluminum radiators are not repairable.so while the price is nice they are scrap if something happens.
Have you had a radiator guy look at your current original radiator? They can oftentimes repair an OEM type radiator for a very competitive price, compared with new, don't go pricing new ones till you're sure.
#23
04-11-2018, 06:13 AM
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I hate to suggest this, but have you looked on eBay at the Champion line of chinesium aluminium radiators? They come in around 225 bones delivered. A good solid brass replacement is going to be about double that price or more.
And let's back up a second. The el-cheapo aluminum radiators are not repairable.so while the price is nice they are scrap if something happens.
Have you had a radiator guy look at your current original radiator? They can oftentimes repair an OEM type radiator for a very competitive price, compared with new, don't go pricing new ones till you're sure.
And let's back up a second. The el-cheapo aluminum radiators are not repairable.so while the price is nice they are scrap if something happens.
Have you had a radiator guy look at your current original radiator? They can oftentimes repair an OEM type radiator for a very competitive price, compared with new, don't go pricing new ones till you're sure.
Yes, I took the original to the local radiator shop because it had a smal leak. The guy looked at it and stuck his fingernail through the passages in several places. It’s rotten.
#24
04-11-2018, 09:16 AM
I've taken all of my original radiators in and had them re-cored. You want a brass radiator - nothing looks more out of place in these trucks than an aluminum radiator. It'll also have the correct top and bottom tanks and correct mounting flanges. It is hard to beat an original radiator. Of course, if you are only interested in the cheapest way to get it done then an aluminum would be fine.
Chad
Chad
#25
04-11-2018, 05:29 PM
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I've taken all of my original radiators in and had them re-cored. You want a brass radiator - nothing looks more out of place in these trucks than an aluminum radiator. It'll also have the correct top and bottom tanks and correct mounting flanges. It is hard to beat an original radiator. Of course, if you are only interested in the cheapest way to get it done then an aluminum would be fine.
Chad
Chad
I completely agree, it will have a OEM radiator back in at some point. A little back story on the truck: I bought it from a guy who bought it from a guy so on and so on in rough shape. Judging by the parts in the bed, someone was in the middle of a head gasket replacement and never finished. Previous owner could not tell me when the last time it ran. It’s 99% complete and unmolested except for the drivers door was replaced at some point. It was actually a GA Tech facilities truck. It has GA Tech numbers and very faded decals on the doors. It’s also pretty rusty....needs floor pans, bed floor, radiator support, a little rocker panel rust, door jamb rust, you get the picture. Frame and cab mounts a fine, body is very straight. Right now my goal is to get it running so I can move it in and out of the shop while I tackle the rust. I’ve ordered a cheap aluminum radiator for now. Even if I have to butcher up the radiator support it’s no biggie because the bottom is rusted out and needs to be replaced.
#26
04-11-2018, 06:20 PM
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#27
04-12-2018, 06:26 AM
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Couple more questions for y’all:
1. Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the thermostat housing bolts?
2. Now that the new fuel pump is on I am leaking gas around throttle shaft(both sides) after I shut the engine off. It takes a minute for it to start leaking. Is this likely a float adjustment issue or a fuel pressure issue?
3. Brake questions: The brakes don’t work at all, pedal goes all the way to the floor. At some point I would like to convert to disc brakes on the front. Can I do this and still use stock wheels? I think for now I’ll just rebuild the drums and see if I can get the brakes to work enough to yard drive it.
1. Can anyone tell me the size/thread of the thermostat housing bolts?
2. Now that the new fuel pump is on I am leaking gas around throttle shaft(both sides) after I shut the engine off. It takes a minute for it to start leaking. Is this likely a float adjustment issue or a fuel pressure issue?
3. Brake questions: The brakes don’t work at all, pedal goes all the way to the floor. At some point I would like to convert to disc brakes on the front. Can I do this and still use stock wheels? I think for now I’ll just rebuild the drums and see if I can get the brakes to work enough to yard drive it.
#29
04-12-2018, 06:41 AM
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#30
04-12-2018, 08:06 AM
Fleet Mechanic
Drum brakes work fine when they are adjusted correctly. You are going to want to rebuild or replace the wheel and master cylinders.
Flush the lines and replace the flexible hoses. Have the drums checked for wear and or turned. You may have to replace them. Depending on time and money this can be a good time to split the front and rears and change to a dual master cylinder.
Both of my trucks rum on drums.
Flush the lines and replace the flexible hoses. Have the drums checked for wear and or turned. You may have to replace them. Depending on time and money this can be a good time to split the front and rears and change to a dual master cylinder.
Both of my trucks rum on drums.