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Remote oil cooler for heavy towing in high heat?

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Remote oil cooler for heavy towing in high heat?

  #1  
Old 04-04-2018, 10:27 AM
Mike in Arizona
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Remote oil cooler for heavy towing in high heat?

The purpose of my 2004 ford F350 is towing, mostly around Arizona (where I live) and a good part of it is going to be over 100 degrees ambient temperature, with summertime anywhere from 105 degrees to 115 degrees. I'll be towing a minimum of 7,000 lbs when I tow. That's on the low side.

Would I be better off just preemptively upgrading my truck to a heavy duty cold air exchange oil filter?

Any recommendations for doing this without breaking the bank? (like a great kit that is proven but not over-priced)

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 04-04-2018, 12:03 PM
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Verify your current oil cooler's operation: drive on highway (level ground, NOT towing) and observe your oil and coolant temps, about 15-20 minutes is required to get them to their max values.
You should see coolant about 190 (bad t-stats show up at < 180)
the Oil temp OVER 15 degress HIGHER than coolant is a sign of a partially clogged oil cooler.

Rather than spend money - unnecessarily, why not see what happens towing first - IF your oil cooler is ok..
IF you have an EGR cooler - the partially clogged oil cooler restricts coolant flow and "can" eventually cause EGR cooler leaks, leading to hydro-locking and possible internal engine damage.
But, high temps - in and of themselves - aren't "bad" under heavy load.
The plastic parts inside the oil filter housing start to melt above a certain temp (230-240-ish I think) so you sure don't want to get that high..

The BPD condenser mount remote oil cooler works terrific on my Excursion, however, in "cold" weather I have to run a winter cover otherwise my coolant/oil temps are in the mid 170s.
I didn't think to get the t-stat option 6 years ago - when I lived in Orlando and had it installed ... :-)
 
  #3  
Old 04-04-2018, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Misky6.0 View Post
Verify your current oil cooler's operation: drive on highway (level ground, NOT towing) and observe your oil and coolant temps, about 15-20 minutes is required to get them to their max values.
You should see coolant about 190 (bad t-stats show up at < 180)
the Oil temp OVER 15 degress HIGHER than coolant is a sign of a partially clogged oil cooler.

Rather than spend money - unnecessarily, why not see what happens towing first - IF your oil cooler is ok..
IF you have an EGR cooler - the partially clogged oil cooler restricts coolant flow and "can" eventually cause EGR cooler leaks, leading to hydro-locking and possible internal engine damage.
But, high temps - in and of themselves - aren't "bad" under heavy load.
The plastic parts inside the oil filter housing start to melt above a certain temp (230-240-ish I think) so you sure don't want to get that high..

The BPD condenser mount remote oil cooler works terrific on my Excursion, however, in "cold" weather I have to run a winter cover otherwise my coolant/oil temps are in the mid 170s.
I didn't think to get the t-stat option 6 years ago - when I lived in Orlando and had it installed ... :-)
im wish misky here... try towing with it first since you just got the truck... if you start noticing a problem with the heat building up then do the conversion since youll be tearing down to it anyways... BPD is the only external oil cooler out there and its not cheap... but after 3 years ill say its very efficient...

Misky you can upgrade your system to include the T-stat... they sell the conversion on the site. I opted for the 180* stat for mine because we are usually pretty close to triple digits every summer. but the winters still get near and below freezing.
 
  #4  
Old 04-04-2018, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike in Arizona View Post
Would I be better off just preemptively upgrading my truck to a heavy duty cold air exchange oil filter?
Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
BPD is the only external oil cooler out there and its not cheap...
Just as a complete off-topic, when I read REMOTE oil cooler in the thread title I immediately thought of IPR's solution to repeat oil cooler clogging via an externally mounted 6.7L oil cooler. It's a cool setup, but if you're dropping $1200 I'd try to scrape up a few hundred more for the BPD kit.
https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-Exte...werstroke.html

I'd also tow with what you have first, there might be no need to change it out anyways.

Several guys have built their own versions, a lot cheaper than buying a kit in terms of initial cost, but you have to do a lot more work to get it right. Time/cash trade off:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arts-go-2.html
 
  #5  
Old 04-04-2018, 02:35 PM
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I never knew about the IPR setup... but looks like all they did was move the oil cooler from under the intake to over the hot side CAC pipe and added a coolant filter to it. doesnt look as nice as the BPD version either..
 
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Old 04-04-2018, 03:13 PM
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if you have an amsoil external filter/bipass filter kit, you can run the return line thru and oul cooler and mount the cooler in the bumper area in front of your existing coolers. I bought one for 70 bucks. dint install it yet but its on my short list.
 
  #7  
Old 04-04-2018, 04:10 PM
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Is the truck even a diesel? OP didn't say. I assumed he was talking about a auxiliary oil cooler. I'd run one and a tranny cooler if I was towing in that heat.
 
  #8  
Old 04-04-2018, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparky83 View Post
I never knew about the IPR setup... but looks like all they did was move the oil cooler from under the intake to over the hot side CAC pipe and added a coolant filter to it. doesnt look as nice as the BPD version either..
Basically yes, it's just a remote setup that's easier to change out if you have a problem. Not sure what the internals of the 6.7 oil cooler it uses looks like, maybe less likely to have problems plugging up like the original 6.0 one. Still leave oil and coolant systems tied together.
 
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Old 04-04-2018, 05:31 PM
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Mine does fine towing 10k in 100*+ heat with the stock cooler, tow 3-4k miles every summer since 2012. Highest eot I have seen is 230* after a long hill, ect was 220*.

If the cooling system is clean there is no reason to go air oil.
 
  #10  
Old 04-04-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak78 View Post
Is the truck even a diesel? OP didn't say. I assumed he was talking about a auxiliary oil cooler. I'd run one and a tranny cooler if I was towing in that heat.
He has a 6.0L IIRC from his previous posts. But would be good for him to check in and confirm.
 
  #11  
Old 04-04-2018, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by speedfreak78 View Post
Is the truck even a diesel? OP didn't say. I assumed he was talking about a auxiliary oil cooler. I'd run one and a tranny cooler if I was towing in that heat.
its a new-to-them 6.0.. they just bought it a week or so ago...
 
  #12  
Old 04-05-2018, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Misky6.0 View Post
The plastic parts inside the oil filter housing start to melt above a certain temp (230-240-ish I think) so you sure don't want to get that high..
230*f oil temp isn't a problem. the defuel point is 253*f, the standpipe won't melt until past that point.
 
  #13  
Old 04-15-2018, 09:35 PM
Mike in Arizona
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My bad: This entire thread was supposed to be under Powerstroke 6.0L.

It's a new to me 2004 F350 DRW with 57,000 miles on it.

It's discussed at great lengths in the aforementioned forum. This was one of my first posts, and I didn't realize that my login defaults to this forum.
 
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:27 AM
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I'm not sure what is the recommended oil is in the owners manual but, finding an oil weight that is right for that type of heat is important. Oil breaks down quicker when it's hot. With all of the head gasket issues I have seen with the 6.0, I would be nervous to get anywhere near the hot level. I would also consider "bullet proofing" the motor sooner rather then later. I'm literally sitting staring at my buddies 04 6.0 with a blown head gasket that only has 97k on it. He just keeps running it. The replacement cost Vs rebuild cost are similar enough that he plans to replace it anyway.
 
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Old 04-16-2018, 08:39 AM
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15w-40 is whats recommended but can go down to 10w-40 if you wished.. there are some here that have gone down even into the 5w oils.. but i prefer to stick with the 15w40's..

as stated before considering Mike just bought the truck i wouldnt go throwing a ton of money at it right now.. drive it and see how it does.. there are many 100% stock 6.0 running around on this board doing exactly what theyre supposed to do.. dont let the undeserved bad rep of these engines scare you into doing work that may never be necessary..
 

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