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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

1966 F100 Mirror and Vent Window Repair

 
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:36 PM
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1966 F100 Mirror and Vent Window Repair

I just bought the 4 inch, round, stainless mirrors(pictured), and new vent window seals to put in my '66 F100. I can't find videos to walk me through these tasks and need some how to steps to get it done. Does the door have to be taken completely apart for these? I've read that the vent windows are tricky. Any and all help is much appreciated as I'm very new to auto work.
 
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Zach Gebhart View Post
I just bought the 4 inch, round, stainless mirrors(pictured), and new vent window seals to put in my '66 F100. I can't find videos to walk me through these tasks and need some how to steps to get it done. Does the door have to be taken completely apart for these? I've read that the vent windows are tricky. Any and all help is much appreciated as I'm very new to auto work.
The door does not need to be taken apart to install the mirror. Open the door and look at the front of it, you can see where the mirror bolts on.

Right vent window weatherstrip shown as 21448 in pic. These weatherstrips are right & left specific, and the door has to be taken apart to install them.

I replaced these on my former '65 F100, but this was back in 1982, so I've sorta forgotten the procedure.

The vent frame w/glass (21608 in pic) has to be removed because the weatherstrip fits into the channel (21408 in pic) in front of it.

I seem to recall that the door glass has to be dropped down to the bottom of the door to move the division bar (22296 in pic).

Someone will be along that replaced them more recently than I did, so can walk you thru it.

 
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Old 04-01-2018, 03:29 PM
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These two bolts pictured here for the mirrors?
 
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Old 04-01-2018, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Zach Gebhart View Post
These two bolts for the mirrors?
... ...

Besides the chrome mirrors, Ford offered several other types of mirrors that fit into the slots of 1961/66 doors.

Pic: Here's an example =

 
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:08 PM
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Mitch posted this thread on topic not sure if info will be helpful, basically mentions steps in removing items that would lead to the removing of the vent window? Topic has come up on numerous occasions, for additional info suggest pull down the advance search menu and fill in topic of search and narrow field to the 61-66 forum; in addition; perhaps other member's will chime in for advice.

Suggest check the condition of the glass setting tape, found cracked glass setting tape can allow water/condensation to accumulate at the 'elbow' of the vent window causing serious metal rust/rot.

For info purposes, in removing the metal frame from the vent window there's a 'key' that sets inside the square housing the vent window shaft slides into and this key has a open space/slot that matches an opening on the vent window shaft allowing the vent window to come out, sorry for the poor explanation? If find the setting tape needs to be replaced and decide to reconditioning I found LMC, which I am not a particular fan of, carried vent window replacement parts I could not find in other Ford part supplier's?








Mitch:
Last Thursday; I successfully installed complete new parts minus door glass and vent glass into my 65 F100 doors. The process took about two hours once we figure out an easy way; I say we because; I believe it’s a two-person task due to alignment and working with glass. We attempted to follow a step by step illustration from a DC catalog; but found out some steps where easier doing it in the following manner; however every situation is different and I removed my old parts and glass about 14 months prior to reinstalling them, so we where little rusty from past removal.I'll give a brief summary of some key issue’s to make removal of old parts a bit easier first. After all handles, door trim, access panel and armrest are removed. Release the door glass from the regulator arm; and place glass in the bottom of the door for removal further on during the process. Remove the regulator mechanism first (makes removal of the division bar easier). Note: Division bar are a tight fit to remove and install; we rotated them 180 degrees to remove (turn the lower mounting bracket that bolts to the top of the regulator towards the outside door skin during removal and install thru the access panel hole.Once the regulator, division bar and door glass run are removed; we then removed the anti-rattlers, vent window & door glass; seem easier in this manner. Now your ready to install new parts. INSTALLATIONWe replaced all parts with new rubber seals, division bars etc, so my door frames where just a shell for this installation procedure. 1). Division Bar: Install it at about a 45-degree angle; turned 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts thru the access panel. Leaving it roughly at the same position laying at 45 degrees inside the door panel. 2). Regulator Mechanism: Install thru access panel; we attach loosely with four screws around the window crank stud (initially). * Prior to installing door glass, we had to form the door glass run to the window glass, recommend holding down the door glass run on top of glass by one person, while the other person moles the door glass run over the curvature of the glass down along the glass towards the door glass (window) channel. 3). Door Glass: Once the door glass run are bent; install the door glass thru the top of the door panel and lower it to the bottom of the door and let it rest there until a further installation point. 4). Vent Window: At this point the door glass, regulator & division bar are inside the door panel; with the door glass and division bar laying down in the bottom of the door panel. Insert a nylon rope / string under outside of the rubber vent window seal; leaving a large portion expose at both ends to grasp when pulling the rubber seal lip over the door frame. (Our cord was about five foot long) probably too much hanging out but sometimes having extra is good.We then installed the vent window using two screws along the A post and tighten them about 3/4 of the way. (Ensure the nylon cord is on the outside of the doorframe prior to this point). Go ahead and slowly pull the cord to over lap the rubber seal against the outside doorframe. 5). Division Bar: Side division bar into place; making sure the bottom attachment plate is over the top of the regulator mechanism to bolt to the inside two bolts to secure the bar to the regulator. Also screw the top two screws (thru door frame) loosely into place. Ensure the vent window screw; that's inserted thru the horizontal portion of the vent rubber near the vent window handle is screw into the division bar at this time. 6). Door Glass Run: Remember this is now bent at a curved angle; Install thru the top of door, guide door run along the inside channel guide along the door handle side until the dove tail clip is resting flush into the groove in the channel (don't know proper name) that the door glass run slides into. This channel bar is vertical along the door handle side, bolted thru the door panel near door locking mechanism.* Use a 3/8" thick wood stick to insert between door glass run trim to snap run into alignment holes; don't put pressure into curvature portion only along the top three snap holes and two side snap holes of the trim portions.** We use a wood shim (wedge use to plum & align a typical house door) from your local hardware store as our stick to accomplish this task.... 7). Door Glass: Lift door glass from bottom of door panel along division bar & door glass run trim. Once align with regulator arm attach with cam roller & clip, (I use new plastic cam roller but found that my original (E clip or Jesus clip) attach cam roller better than my new made in Taiwan clip).Crank glass up about 1/3rd of the way out; have a person hold squarely the glass for proper alignment while another person tightens division bar bolts and screws; we also tighten the vent window screws securely at this time. 8). Anti-Rattlers: Anti- rattlers are the last item to install and can be snapped intoAnti-rattlers; we place the ends along the outside of the division bar and door glass run. After this step just reattach your door trim, armrest, handles and access panel. I feel it took me longer to type this out then installing new parts. The DC illustration really help and recommend due to having pictures for each step; but the main difference's between them and us when we installed the vent window step. Seem easier prior too division bar and window glass step.Hope this helps any future installments. Mitch (Just a Shade Tree Mechanic with a lot of Leaves Missing)__________________Mitch65 Flairside SWB "Wife truck" (300/C4)62 F100 LWB 390/C6 (orphan box) Old Skool build76 F250 "Highboy"
 
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:31 PM
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[QUOTE=NumberDummy;17898782]... ...

Besides the chrome mirrors, Ford offered several other types of mirrors that fit into the slots of 1961/66 doors.

Hey Bill, have any part #'s on that second setup with the tripod mount?
 
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:00 PM
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Thanks to Mitch, and you too, Dave.
Eric
 
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:27 PM
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[QUOTE=EricJ;17901462]
Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
... ...

Besides the chrome mirrors, Ford offered several other types of mirrors that fit into the slots of 1961/66 doors.

Hey Bill, have any part #'s on that second setup with the tripod mount?
Take a look at the pic again, there's actually two different types. One telescopes, the other does not and has a third 'steady' rest arm.
 
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:40 AM
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[QUOTE=NumberDummy;17901933]
Originally Posted by EricJ View Post
Take a look at the pic again, there's actually two different types. One telescopes, the other does not and has a third 'steady' rest arm.
Yes, the one with the 2 stabilizer arms, in the bottom pic. thanx.
 
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:29 AM
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The part number is there listed on the page just "below" the mirror (if you turn your head sideways)

C3TZ-17696-B

I don't have any of those but I do have a couple of these that do not telescope.

C3TZ-17696-D



I'm betting a person could remove the "flatish" (slightly curved to match door contour) plate that mounts over the hole in the door and use the stub that sticks up out of the door to attach these if desired.

Here's a quick scan of the directions without any cleanup work so far.

Instruction Sheet I.S. 1445 dated 5-29-64



Chad
 
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:12 PM
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Damn, they didn't waste any money making them pretty did they? The heads similar to those are available in SS, Maybe I should design brackets out of aluminum and fab something up myself. I like the stock round ones but you can't see crap in them.
 
 
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