It happened twice today and once 4 drives ago. The first and second time I was at idle and it just died, then would crank but not start. After 4 or 5 attempts it started and seemed to run fine. The third time I was driving about 30 mph and it died, I coasted as I tried to start it and after 4-5 attempts it started and seemed to drive fine. I had at least half a tank both times and the outside temp was about 70 degrees. Any suggestions on what may be the cause please? Thank you very much!

 

Have you scanned it for any codes or pending codes?
How many miles on it?
Do you know if it has the original fuel pump?
It could be any one of a few things but some fuel pumps die slowly with very similar symptoms to what you have described. Can you hear the pump run when you turn the key to "Run".

 

$1 says its the fuel pump on the way out.

 

Moving this over to the V10 forum to get you a wider array of expert eyes on your problem.

Stewart

 

That does sound like a fuel pump on its death bed.

 

I would not be so quick on the fuel pump. Take a scan of the FUEL PUMP relay! I had a diagnosis of a bad fuel pump, replaced it and still would not start. Ended up replacing the relay and all was well. Trouble shooting old fuel pump revealed it would work but it got all torn apart trying to see if it could be saved. Had ford scan tool and no codes showed so take a look ther 1st. Dont know if you have same fuel system as a 2011 E450 but still check the relay 1st much cheaper to replace.

 

Depending on the year/configuration the relay is very expensive to replace because it's an integral part of the under dash fuse panel.

 

Here is a way to further diagnose the problem :

1-Remove the panel over the "inertia switch" so you can access the connector with your VOM- meter . Monitor your indicator for the 2-3 seconds when the key is first turned from OFF to RUN (not START). If the VOM-meter reads battery voltage during that priming interval, then the control circuitry is all working (including built-in fuel pump relay) and the problem is most likely (but not always) the fuel pump.

2- You should be able to hear the pump during the priming cycle. Listen carefully.

3- It's often possible to tap the fuel tank with a rubber mallet or a chunk of wood to get it to start up when they start to go bad due to excessive internal wear (intermittent electrical contacts). If that works, you're on very, very short notice to replace the pump ASAP.
Good luck,

 

delete this, mods. No idea why the javascript is being inserted every time
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So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. It ran great for four days then while I was driving 40 mph it just died. As always, I put it in nooch and coasted while I cranked. Four times at five seconds and it finally started. It always seems like it takes four or five cranks at four of five second before it starts back up. Once it does it runs great and may not die again for a few days. I can find no common denominator for why it dies. It has died at all speeds, speeding up, slowing down, constant speed. Then it starts right back up after a few cranks then runs fine for a while. So, does it sound like it's that relay or might somebody have some other ideas? Thank you very much! Oh, it has about 105,000 miles on it, since someone asked.

 

I recall a similar thread a few days ago on excursion forum.

OP bought a junk parts store fuel pump. After lots of trouble shooting it ended up the parts store fuel pump was junk. 5 psi at idle.

what manufacturer pump did you install?
I recommend denso, bosch, and walbro. Others are just too risky.

 

Did you test the voltage at the inertia switch?
Voltage comes from the fuel pump relay to the inertia switch and on to the fuel pump.
I added a dash mounted voltmeter that is tied in at the output of the inertia switch making it easy to see the voltage getting to the fuel pump, if the inertia switch got tripped by a jolt, if the voltage regulator for system voltage is working properly, or if there is a dead battery cell.
I think your 2005 Excursion is the same as my 2002, the fuel pump relay is soldered under the fuse panel below the steering column and not easy to get to.
The CJB - Central Junction Box or fuse panel I think is no longer available new and a used panel will just have a used relay in it.
I've seen places that can repair them or have the relay for a DIY repair.

 

 

I've seen cases where some relays fail when they get too hot, then once they cool off a bit they start back to work. Possible this is happening here? Though you'd imagine the fuel pump relay would be a bit more robust than this.