1978 F-150 351M CRANKS BUT NO SPARK.....HELP!
#61
WELL......here is what has transpired today!! I replaced EVERY SINGLE IGNITION COMPONENT WITH NEW ONES! (CHINESE of course) Some have been replaced 8 times and no spark. I checked continuity of EVERY SINGLE wire in the ignition and they are all like new. I told my wife I am taking out $$ on the house and having trucky fixed. Dealer is $600 diagnostic and estimated $1900 for labor to replace all ignition components with Motorcraft. There has to be something I am not doing or overlooking due to this frustration of 3 months of replacing the same things. I don't know how to put photos up but needed to ask about the other ignition connections at the firewall. I traced the ballast wire into a gray connector that has two red wires going into one spot and the red/green to coil. I don't understand how to check or bypass stuff like some of the posts suggest to see if it will fire or spark. I will not give up on trucky. But, only 3 months before smog.
I know everyone is frustrated with me for not seeing something that is probably right in front of me. But, will all new components shouldn't that fix it?
I know everyone is frustrated with me for not seeing something that is probably right in front of me. But, will all new components shouldn't that fix it?
it doesn't necessarily correlate to what happens when you try to push 10 amps thru the wire.
by the way, you can test the ignition system without the engine running. loosen the distributor so you can rotate it about 1/4 turn, turn the key to run, rapidly rotate the distributor back and forth. pop the cap off to check that the pickup coil passes a vane. you may need to run a ground wire to the distributor housing.
have you thought of acquiring an old style points distributor for testing? add some resistance to the supply wire or you may over power the coil.
#62
Yes, that was one of the issues. No power to ICM. After replacing the ignition switch received power, but, my friend who helps me with trucky found the connector to the switch broken, probably from replacing 8 switches! He epoxied it together. Is it possible that the connector is not making contact somehow? I cannot find a replacement for the 1978-79 trucks.
#63
by the way, you can test the ignition system without the engine running. loosen the distributor so you can rotate it about 1/4 turn, turn the key to run, rapidly rotate the distributor back and forth. pop the cap off to check that the pickup coil passes a vane. you may need to run a ground wire to the distributor housing.
Could also Ohm out the plug wires (< 70K Ohms), check the distributor cap for cracks, carbon tracking, check that the roll pin is secure and that the ORANGE and PURPLE wires to the Stator aren't crossed.
#64
#65
Yes, that was one of the issues. No power to ICM. After replacing the ignition switch received power, but, my friend who helps me with trucky found the connector to the switch broken, probably from replacing 8 switches! He epoxied it together. Is it possible that the connector is not making contact somehow? I cannot find a replacement for the 1978-79 trucks.
I find it difficult to believe you can't find a replacement ignition switch in your area...
#67
#68
#69
Well, if you're going to the boneyard, see about picking up an ignition switch, the "horseshoe" connector on the coil - if you have one - mebbe a used DSII distributor (to take apart at your convenience) and the accompanying wiring harness(es) to the coil and ICM.
Something be fishy here, methinks. Mebbe those nocturnal Land Shark miscreants come out when you're sawing 'em off to negate the days woik.....?
Something be fishy here, methinks. Mebbe those nocturnal Land Shark miscreants come out when you're sawing 'em off to negate the days woik.....?
#70
The resistance on the distributor trigger is still well within the acceptable range at that 530, so not to worry.
I don't remember you saying you tried connecting power directly to the ignition coil and ICM. If you disconnect the 2-wire connector on the ICM, apply power directly from the battery to the coil's positive side and to the Red wire of the ICM, try to start it and see what you get.
Paul
#71
WE HAVE SPARK!! UN FRICKING BELIEVABLE...….like many of you have said ' just because it is new doesn't mean it will work'. HERE IS A LESSON ABOUT CHINESE AND TAIWAN manufactured parts. For three weeks I have been checking and double checking things following the procedures all of you have recommended. As you know going out of my mind and stressed over trucky. My friend who drives 2 hours to help me came Saturday and we started fresh going down the list of things to check. WELL, the NEW 4 pin connector (at harness end from module) we replaced 3 weeks ago was not getting signal from purple wire. My friend probed the connector to get connection and still nothing, he said that 3 had the connector in the socket but the purple DID NOT! We by passed the purple wire and had continuity BUT STILL no spark!! Checking the NEW module, THERE WAS NOTHING COMING OUT IT!!! We put a 30 year old WELLS unit in and we HAD SPARK!! BUT, no start?? Trucky wants to start but won't. Did we put distributor back in 180 off? So for 3 weeks, a connector was messed up and I kept replacing modules UNTIL there was a NEW module that didn't work!! Now, we have spark and no start. Less stress now that I can see the light at end of tunnel thanks to all of you who have been so patient and helpful. Just need to figure if distributor is off.
Thanks again to all of you!
Hunter
Burbank,CA
Thanks again to all of you!
Hunter
Burbank,CA
#73
FRIDAY 3pm PDT...………..PLENTY SPARK.....NO START!! How do we know if distributor is 180 off? We are at TDC and have pulled distributor to line up with #1. Spits through carb. AND timing mark is opposite of where it should be and we think we are 180 off. How do we correct this? IF cylinder is TDC, rotor at #1 and timing mark at TDC can we be off 180 and no start?
FRUSTRATION LEVEL RISING...….so close!
Thanks everyone,
Hunter
FRUSTRATION LEVEL RISING...….so close!
Thanks everyone,
Hunter
#74
FRIDAY 3pm PDT...………..PLENTY SPARK.....NO START!! How do we know if distributor is 180 off? We are at TDC and have pulled distributor to line up with #1. Spits through carb. AND timing mark is opposite of where it should be and we think we are 180 off. How do we correct this? IF cylinder is TDC, rotor at #1 and timing mark at TDC can we be off 180 and no start?
FRUSTRATION LEVEL RISING...….so close!
Thanks everyone,
Hunter
FRUSTRATION LEVEL RISING...….so close!
Thanks everyone,
Hunter
#75
6:30 pm PDT...……..I officially give up! We have done EVERYTHING we can do. PERFECT 6 degrees BTC, NICE spark and NO start. ALMOST but nothing. WANTS to start but just wont. I have used all of my Auto Club tow services so $150 to tow 5 blocks to Pep Boys, Pep Boys charges $109 to do what my friend and I have spent months doing. I really wanted to get 'trucky' going on my own. If you have any recommendations PLEASE share them. SO close. Trucky was in The A Team television show a few times and still has the 'fake' bullet holes and dings! I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks again.
Hunter
Burbank, CA
Thanks again.
Hunter
Burbank, CA