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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

change to small block chevy?

 
  #31  
Old 03-23-2018, 11:52 AM
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I know that had to be a great relief for you. Congratulations on getting it fixed, without a lot of muss and fuss. Also you can keep the classic motor in the classic truck I'm really glad it worked out for you.
 
  #32  
Old 03-23-2018, 12:31 PM
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I have owned and built and raced several Y Blocks. In the 50's the oils were not as good as today and clogged up passages in the cam bearings and valve train. Totally not a problem with todays oils and regular oil changes. My experience these were as reliable than the chevy V8s. We ran a couple of these up into the 150,000 plus miles range. This discussion seems to be more about tired motors than starting with a sound or rebuilt motor. Downsides for the y block is the solid lifters needing periodic valve adjustment and they may be a little trickier for rebuilding because of minor changes over the years. If rebuilding one I would recommend buying the Y block rebuild book.
 
  #33  
Old 03-23-2018, 01:11 PM
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In the 50s and early 60s in Pennsylvania (and elsewhere I'm sure) anybody that knew anything about engines used Quaker State oil which was made from Pennsylvania paraffin-based oils. Sometime in there Pennsylvania oil fields started to dry up so Quaker State changed to the more common asphalt-based oils. The problem is that they didn't change their detergent additive packages. So Y-blocks which I grew up with ended up with clogged passages to the heads and rocker arms. It was so common the aftermarket came up with an external oiler kit that was mentioned earlier. STP and other additive packages also became popular.
 
  #34  
Old 03-25-2018, 09:59 AM
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Nothing wrong with a yblock that’s in good condition and well maintained. Free up and maybe use the external oil kit for the top end and it’ll run forever. I’ve also done some cross breeding but not at the expense of a good condition engine.
 
  #35  
Old 03-25-2018, 10:29 AM
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How about a cross breed horror story? When I came home from the Air Force I bought a 55F100 from a friend who didn’t know much about it but it had a 70s 455 Buick/ turbo 400 combo. Truck was in real good condition and very fast. HOWEVER,under hard acceleration would pull to right so bad I had to back out of it.After talking to my dad he took a look under and said “There is NO crossmember in front.” The side mounted Buick was sitting on a frame that was held together at the front by only the bumper! A simple 3x3 tube crossmember welded up by him under the engine took care of that. What could the original fabricator been thinking?Solid as a rock after that. Ran 13.40s at PIR on H 60s but the stock brakes struggled.
 
  #36  
Old 03-25-2018, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm View Post
Yea, if its been sitting for a while that valve stem has gotten sticky. Spray the stem with brake cleaner or car cleaner while tapping on the valve until it frees up a bit. Then put it back together, maybe add some ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and see what happens.

I just recently had an old John Deere bend a pushrod due to a sticky valve (that tractor had sat for about 20 years) I straightened out the pushrod, freed up the valve and its running great.

Bobby
Sound advice above, Ive been in the same situation a time or two myself. Free the valve up, use some marvel mystery oil and enjoy the drive. By any chance how old is the gas you are running this motor on ? Ive witnessed engines actually run on stale gasoline, when they are shut down and start to cool the gas becomes sticky just like glue on the valve stems causing them to stick. make the repair as stated and run it on fresh gasoline.
 
  #37  
Old 03-26-2018, 10:19 AM
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There is nothing wrong with keeping a 312 in your truck. Clean it out. Make sure everything is mechanically correct as Ford built it. An old truck takes a little more maintenance than average but you knew that going in.Think about what your “average” is. Most people are so used to their newer daily driver that probably hasn’t had the hood opened in 50,000 miles starts instantly and handles like a slot car that the regular maintenance required by an older vehicle gets to be a pain. Realistically your 312 should only need regular oil changes and occasional light maintenance. Not much different than a newer motor. My dads 61 went 337,000 on a well maintained 292.
 
  #38  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by petemcl View Post
The problem is if the oil isn't changed for 20,000 miles or so the oil passages to the head get plugged up.
This is absolutely true! The Y-block doesn't have oil issues at all if you just change it at a normal interval, use a modern filter and use a modern oil!

We could even talk about zddp levels, multi-grade, high detergent and other oil arguments but the bottom line is to just change it!!
That alone would have solved the upper oil problems in just about every Y that had those problems!

change to small block chevy?I have a 1955 Ford F100 and it has a Ford 312 engine. The Y block dropped two push rods. The number 3 intake and the number 8 exhaust. I took it all apart and put the push rods back in contact with the lifters. I adjusted the valves again and found the number 3 intake spring compress and then slams back shut. The push rod seems straight. Also I observed that the lifter does go up and down in its bore. Any ideas?

thanks
Jerry
Do you really have a 312? That engine wasn't a truck engine so if you do, it's pretty valuable. You can identify your engine by looking at the block for the ID number.
It's possible that it's NOT a 312 since in the last 50 odd years, someone could have put anything in that truck and anything in that block (including another crankshaft) since 312 crankshafts are getting pretty scarce too.....
ECZ -C 312 cu. in. V8 1957 ECZ 6015 C. 292 with EBU main caps.
B7ME 312 cu. in. V8 1962? later 312 replacement block. C2AE main webs. Only example seen was a marine engine
etc etc
For more info, go to John Mummerts site for ID.....click ---> TECHNICAL if you want to ID what you have.

If it's really a 312, and you're restoring that truck, I would rebuild it and put either an E4OD or an AOD/AODE trans behind it!

Cheers,

Rick
 
  #39  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RiKi5156 View Post
Nothing wrong with a yblock that’s in good condition and well maintained. Free up and maybe use the external oil kit for the top end and it’ll run forever. I’ve also done some cross breeding but not at the expense of a good condition engine.
With the new oils you should not need the external Oiler providing the internal passages are cleaned out.
 
  #40  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:46 AM
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Let me also add that FOR GAWDS SAKE DO NOT put solvent, diesel, Kerosene, Naphtha, Marvel Mystery Oil, Sea Foam, Super Owl Snot, or any other Snake Oil "solvent" in the oil, with the idea that you should "FLUSH" the oil system while running the engine!

Doing that in an old engine that has not had the oil changed on a regular basis will run the risk of breaking a piece of sludge loose (on the wrong side of the filter)

I.E. ................a piece of sludge pumped to a rod, main, or cam bearing could starve it of oil and destroy it.....quickly.

If the "insides" are "sludged", take it apart and clean it manually!
 
  #41  
Old 03-26-2018, 01:41 PM
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Clean engine

Gotta tell you guys about a situation I ran into with a friends 71 383 Charger. Hadn’t started it in years so he asked me to stop by. Him and a friend of his had been cranking this thing for the last 2weeks with no success. I took a look at the engine and asked them to fire it up. Cranked for a bit,no start. Had spark at the coil so I got to looking and realized they had the rubber fuel line running to the front of the AFB into the vacuum port for power brake hookup. HOLY———— I told them shut off the switch.I pulled the dipstick and it smelled of gas! I rearranged the fuel line correctly and told them to drain the oil pan and let is sit for a couple of days. I found out later they drained 5 gallons of gas/oil out of the pan.With fresh oil he got it fired up and after a minute of lifter clatter it settled down and ran great. This thing ran as smooth as new after that, all accidental of course
 
  #42  
Old 03-26-2018, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RiKi5156 View Post
Gotta tell you guys about a situation I ran into with a friends 71 383 Charger. Hadn’t started it in years so he asked me to stop by. Him and a friend of his had been cranking this thing for the last 2weeks with no success. I took a look at the engine and asked them to fire it up. Cranked for a bit,no start. Had spark at the coil so I got to looking and realized they had the rubber fuel line running to the front of the AFB into the vacuum port for power brake hookup. HOLY———— I told them shut off the switch.I pulled the dipstick and it smelled of gas! I rearranged the fuel line correctly and told them to drain the oil pan and let is sit for a couple of days. I found out later they drained 5 gallons of gas/oil out of the pan.With fresh oil he got it fired up and after a minute of lifter clatter it settled down and ran great. This thing ran as smooth as new after that, all accidental of course
5 GALLONS? in a 6-QT pan? That gasoline oil solution must have been shooting out of the oil fill and breather!!

I am not sure the entire crankcase of any small block engine could hold 5 GALLONS of any liquid!! (maybe you meant 2 or 3 gallons.....)


In either case.........Gasoline in the oil in small amounts is not really the "end of the world" (even having said you shouldn't do it to "flush" an old sludged engine for the same reasons I mentioned above.............)

Many reciprocating engine aircraft "back in the day" (especially radials) had fuel dilution systems that allowed the pilot to use a cockpit control to add aviation gasoline to the engine oil right before shutting the engine down in sub-zero temperatures. This would dilute the oil sufficiently so as to have "thin" oil for the subsequent cold-soaked start up the next day etc.

Then after start up, and warm up, the gasoline would simply evaporate out of the oil once the (oil) temp increased.

I suppose it worked well. Multi-grade synthetics weren't available in those days and this was the only way to prevent congealed oil in very cold temps.

It's not done anymore..... BIG fire hazard.....
 
  #43  
Old 03-26-2018, 02:39 PM
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This was a big block Mopar and it filled up gas to probably above lifter level.
 
  #44  
Old 04-25-2018, 11:33 PM
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Small Block Chevy

Originally Posted by jerryst View Post
I have a 1955 Ford F100 and it has a Ford 312 engine. The Y block dropped two push rods. The number 3 intake and the number 8 exhaust. I took it all apart and put the push rods back in contact with the lifters. I adjusted the valves again and found the number 3 intake spring compress and then slams back shut. The push rod seems straight. Also I observed that the lifter does go up and down in its bore. Any ideas?

thanks
Jerry
Don't even think about putting a SBC in that Ford. Keep your Ford all Ford. I see it all the time, and there's just no reason for it, unless you want a "Cookie Cutter" truck. Dare to be different, and rebuild the Y -Block. Just my opinion. I kept the Flathead V-8 in my '49, and I'm SO glad I did. Just my humble opinion !
 
  #45  
Old 04-29-2018, 01:38 AM
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I had a 6 in my 52 when I got it. Didn’t really want that but with an open bay I could put any engine in I wanted. At the time I had an ex top alcohol early HEMI,487 ci,871 mooneyhan,twin 4” shotgun blades,1200 hp and 1400 lbs torque which I figured would be just enough. However after a bunch of buddies came over cooler heads prevailed.I came across a 54 Mercury 256 inch 4 barrel y block on local Craigslist.He put it on at 902 on a Saturday morning by 11 am it was in my daily Dodge pickup along with a massive amount of spare yblock parts. It came from a car that was totaled when new yanked out and sat in his shop till the 70s when it was put in his 41 pickup. He drove it for a few thousand miles and got so much flak from his early ford V8 members that he swapped it for his original flathead. Sold to me for $400 air cleaner to oil pan with a fresh turned flywheel and new clutch. I really like this style motor.When they are tuned right and correct valve adjustment they run like a well oiled sewing machine.
 

Last edited by RiKi5156; 04-29-2018 at 01:39 AM. Reason: Text

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