Hello,
I just had my E4OD puking out quite a bit of it's oil out on the road, these's non at the dipstick now, and it seems that only the front seal temporarely failed, to find out if it's only that, I'd like to fill her up to level and have a drive.
But since I don't know what oil it was filled with from the beginning, and in what state the oil left in there is, I don't know which oil to pour in?

and since a bottle of 1 liter (about 1 qrt) sells here for 20€/L it troubles me a bit to trow all that away?
since I understood that the E4OD needs 20 qrts?

 

You need MERCON V fluid regardless of what was in it before. You probably lost 2-4 liters.

Your two choices are to put more in it (check the dipstick after adding each liter) or to take the transmission out and replace the seal. If I were to remove the transmission to check the seal I would install a new one, not keep the old one no matter what it looked like. There is a better seal available, it is made from a material called Viton.

 

Yep, I was told about that.
Today I tried to get some oil, so I could try to determine what has happened, and I decided to undo the cooler line at the back, just before the transfer case.
I had a glass jar present to catch the oil, but just a tiny little bit came out.
the fluid was a dark red, almost brownish color, nothing in there which looked like spec's,or pieces from something, it didn't smelled burned either.
actually it has the same color as the oil in the transfer case!??
so, more and more it looks like that I have had good chance with all this???
Even it is a lot of work, (having no shop, I have to do everything on the driveway) I'm thinking of changing that dreaded seal to a nwe viton one. gives me peace of heart...

 

If you do replace the seal I recommend replacing the bushing, too. It's right behind the seal. It should be very inexpensive and will help the new seal last longer.

 

I found a Texaco oil, with the following spec's: M2C138-CJ ou M2C166-H and Caterpillar TO-2, Aisin Warner T-III, GM Dexron-IIIG, Ford Mercon, Allison C4, Man 339 Type V1, Voith 55.6335.3x, ZF TE-ML 04D, 09, 17C.
would that do?

Or this one:Castrol Transmax Dex III Multivehicle



Castrol Allison C4
Allison TES 389
Meets Ford Mercon®
GM Dexron® IIIH
MAN 339 Z1
MAN 339 V1
MB-Approval 236.9
Voith H55.6335.xx
Volvo 97340, 97341
ZF TE-ML 04D, 14A

 

That will work, but if you can find MERCON V it's a better fluid.

 

seen it's price, and that I'm uncertain at this point of the damage eventually done to the internals of this trans at this time, I prefer to go with the Mercon, and seen the level of where I had to get some of the old fluid, I think there's not much fluid left in the trans, so completely draining and giving her a new refill is in her future.
could you tell me if there is a TC drain bolt on it, and how to get there? (it seems that I can't turn the TC due to the compression of the diesel engine)

and after that, I'd like to clock up some miles to see if everything is as it should be, and then I eventually change the fluid to MerconV.
I'm also busy to get a decent cooler and a trans temp meter.
Do you have any Idea where I could best order that TC seal and bushing? (next trans shop is 500 miles away from me.)
Thanks.

 

I've turned a diesel with a socket on the crank pulley and a breaker bar. There is a drain plug on the torque converter. Remove the sheet metal cover from the bellhousing and use a breaker bar to turn the engine to find the drain plug.

I don't know what to get the parts. I used to get all of my parts from a company that only sold wholesale, not retail.

 

Hello all,
it took a while to prepare me for this job, I have to do it myself, cause there is no competent shop around here, I bought a TQ seal, and attaqued the beast! result: 1-0 for me.
Idid notice that someone before me turned some wrenches on this truck, and screwed up the 4 nut that secure the TQ to the flexplate. since I live in Metric fastener country on the old continent (Europe) those are hard to get here, please taka a look at the pic's, and if you can help me, please let me know? the nuts are self braking, and have a intergrated washer. the other thing I can't find over here, is the small "O'" ring the orange one on the shaft of the gearbox. Is there someone who can help me to get these pieces? well appriciated.


I don't get it, why do the pic's show as a broken link? Odd, it seems to work now... better!

 

I can't help with your problem but I do see one picture in your last post of the shaft

 

it seems it needed some time, it works now.

 

Remove the old seal and take a pic of the bushing.If the bushing walked forward,then it will need to be replaced too.Even though that's right behind the seal,that job is completely different than a seal replacement and much,much,much more entailed than just tapping one in.In order to replace that,the pump needs to be pulled from the trans without parts falling out behind it,then it needs to be split in half,then it needs to be honed out to accept the new bushing,pressed in,then pump gears and it's two half's need to be realigned perfectly,then the pump re-installed.This is a job best left for a trans shop (though I'm good at it now) as it requires some skills,time,and patience to learn.A guy might be better off just replacing the pump with a reman,than frigging with a spun/walked bushing.Post good clear pics of the bushing,once you pluck that seal out and we'll help you determine if just the seal failed.


Torque converter nuts are sold on ebay,however I can't help ya with where they ship unless of course a seller claims to ship worldwide or something.............Like this lol.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Conv...D/272848822909



EDIT: Oh yeah.That seal your speaking about there.The orange one.That's not a "ware" type anywho.Sure,they come in a reman trans kit and are replaced at that time and or when damaged but if looks ok,there's no reason to replace that.
This might be the one here though.
https://cobratransmission.com/e40d-4...e035ed181d5aaf

Yeah^ That'sgotta be the one "lock up" as in the converter seals around there and that is the "stator" so,Id say 99% maybe I should go with 75% so you wont beat me up if I'm wrong.

Whole kit if you don't feel like messing around lol.
https://cobratransmission.com/e40d-4...e035ed181d5aaf

Yours is probably just like new though.Take it right off and inspect it.They come off super easy.If you see any nicks or cuts,then you'll know.If it all looks new (like it probably does) than put it back on and run 'er.

Oh and by the way,your doing exactly what I would do first.Replace the seal,fill with juice and see what happens.I think you'll find that your trans will work as it should still.......so long as you didn't let it slip real bad and or let it run for very long without fluid in it.

 

I appriciate your advice, but I wonder about how serious that bushing is? because I'm not sure If I can do that job over here myself, and a proper trans shop is 500 miles away.
Now I pulled the trans from underneath I can see that it apparantly let go the oil from bypassing the seal, the vent is dry, and there is a slight residue of spun oil at the inside of the aluminium housing where normally the TC resides.

I'm not completely at ease with pulling the pump, because I don't know what's involved. when I do that. and If I do, what parts do I need extra (to replace joints or so?)
what special tools are involved? I do have a press.

 

Don't pull the pump.Just pry that seal out of there,then take pics down the bore where the seal was.We need to see what the bushing looks like.

 

well, this is the best I could do, and how much of a catastrophy is that nick at 3'o clock? it's not deep.

I guess the old gasket is a silicone one? E9TP 7A248 AA still an original FORD one.