Ok so I'm at my wits end here. I had truck running great after last issues were corrected. Now it has died on me twice leaving my on side of road. First time it was the ignition coil which was new had failed. Got that replaced and at the same time rocker arm bolt snapped got that fixed as well. Ran fine for a week then died again. I thought it was the ignition control module also new. I had put the old one back on and it started fine 3 times. Went this morning for a replacement on the one still under warranty. Put it on and still wouldn't start. It tried to but didn't. I did notice after trying to start it the positive terminal on battery was very hot. So I'm sure I've got an electrical issue there. But I'm sure that isn' keeping it from running considering no computers and it cranks over fine. What else could be causing it to not start. It has new plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotor, and new carb. If anyone can point me in the right direction of where to look now it's be great. And if anyone can help with the battery terminal and wire being hot that'd be awesome to. Thanks

 

Okay, I'd say fix the known issues before tackling the others. The hot battery terminal/wire is easy enough:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html


Even though your starter seems to be operating at normal speed, the following is still applicable:

"One word of caution is in order when troubleshooting a slow turning starter. Battery cables that can't carry enough current, whether from damage or inadequate size, will get hot. After repeated cranking attempts, you could burn your hand so please use caution. This is also a quick and dirty troubleshooting technique. Run your hand carefully along the cables and feel for any warm areas, especially at the crimps for the cable ends. If a cable gets hot, there is a restriction inside."

By chance do you have this style of bolt-on battery terminal?:





If so, put away your voltmeter for the moment and get rid of that terminal. The positive cable is short and easy to replace. I'd just get a whole new assembly from your local parts store.

After that, you can run the quick test as detailed at the link above, to make sure the battery and cables are in good shape. My hunch on the ignition problem? Due to that bad terminal at the battery, the voltage feeding the ignition system was dropping too much under the heavy load of the starter. Low voltage equals weak spark equals hard starting. There may be a second minor fault in the ignition system, and the low input voltage may be just enough in combination to cause a weak spark. I may be in left field, though, but fix the known fault first and then go from there.

 

If the terminal was hot clean the post and clamp before replacing anything. If you are still getting issues just replace the cable it is not costly.

As for the ignition issues. I would replace the hall sensor in the distributor now with age of these trucks it should be replaced just as a matter of fact..

 

Ok will do these checks and replace those cables this weekend. And yes I have those type of terminals so which ones do you suggest getting as replacements?

 

Either buy the correct length molded terminal cables. Or get them with lugs on each end. If you have lugs on each end of the cable the terminals to use are the Military style ones.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI8619

 

I'd love to meet the guy who designed those "walking shoes" bolt-on battery terminals. Kinda like a politician, guaranteed to let you down...

For the positive cable, since it is so short, the easiest/cheapest option is just replace the whole thing.

For the negative side, if only the end is bad, try a compression terminal:



NAPA sells them. Not sure about other chains, so you'd have to ask.

Please note the positive and negative battery posts are slightly different sizes, so you have to make sure to purchase the appropriate terminal end. If building up or repairing a battery cable, it would be really easy to make an expensive mistake. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

 

What is he working on? Year, model, engine, etc.

 

Compression connectors are not much better than than the shoe clamp lugs if not done properly especially on the battery due to the corrosive environment.
The lug/cable should be coated with an electrical anti oxidant compound before the lug is put on and crimped, this will prevent issues down the road.

 

 

Ok here's an update. Replaced the battery ground and hot cables. The truck started and runs better now. I noticed it doesn' drag when trying to start. So thanks to everyone here who helped with this.

 

Good to hear it helped.
So you have a ground from batt to motor, motor to frame and frame to body?
Dave ----

 

Ground goes from battery to frame then frame to motor. Just as it was and as part store showes it to be. As far as another ground from body to frame not sure. Aren't those usually a braided wire with no coating?

 

Depends on some vehicles it is on others the Neg has a clamp that clamps to the frame and locates the neg cable. The important one is the ground to the engine then the body one then the frame.

 

That will work as long as the motor/frame/batt are all connected together.
As for the body ground I guess it could be braided. On my 81 F100 with a 300 six I replaced the 10ga normal wire with a 8ga wire from motor to fire wall. This is on the left side of the motor to fire wall.
The braided was on the right side from fire wall to hood.
I think I will also add one for the bed, metal floor flare side, to the frame just to make sure the bed has a ground.
Dave ----

 

Ok so after fixing those cables truck ran great for a few days. Then started running rough and dieing. Had rocker stud break again replaced that and still runs rough. Missing pretty bad. When you floorboard the gas petal it seems like engine dies or cuts out but when you release it comes back. If anyone has a clue where to look on this it be awesome. Thanks