Before you pull the HPOP, you should definitely do the Cody test. I have a hard time believing the HPOP coincidentally failed right as you were replacing injectors. You aren't building pressure because there is a leak in the system.

Here was mine leaking pressure due to bad o-rings.

 

I readily admit that I don't know how injectors work internally but if a plunger were stuck couldn't that let HPO pass through? If it was running fine before I put injectors in and then not running I wouldn't change the HPOP until I pressurized both heads to see if oil was leaking through, but that's just me.



edit: Jason beat me to it............. simul-typing

 

I understand what you guys are saying and believe me I would rather not believe it's the pump.
Yesterday's test involved removing the HPOP hoses from the heads. Plugging 1 hose completely and a gauge on the other hose.
The gauge barely touched the 200psi mark.

After some more research today though, I've realized that I did the deadhead test incorrectly yesterday.
I did not apply 12v to the IPR solenoid.
I thought the IPR regulated oil pressure output by recirculating oil back within the pump and would affect total output pressure.
Apparently, it regulates oil by dumping oil back to the crankcase, (from what I've been reading this morning and a cut-away diagram of the IPR function).

The search is on now for a connector that I can plug into the IRP and apply 12v while cranking.
I have the fuel bowl out/all lines disconnected and would rather not crank with the key. (I suppose I could disconnect the fuel pump on the frame rail if I had to...)
I'm checking every auto parts store between work and home to see if anyone has an IPR/injector connector.

I'll have to refill the HPOP reservoir back up and crank with power to the IPR to get a true reading on deadhead pump output pressure.
If it turns up good, then I'll move on to the Cody test.

I'll post findings.

 

Ok, didn't realize you had dead headed the lines.

 

Well, the saga continues...

I picked up that IPR pigtail at Napa on my way home. It doesn't have the metal clip but it is the right size, shape, and fits the IPR. It looks like it attaches to where the metal clip does. I didn't push it all the way on so as not to fight to get it back off but did make connection.

I took my original IPR apart and cleaned it then tested it with the pigtail on the battery.
I then installed the original IPR into the HPOP.

I extended the wires on it to reach the battery, hooked up my "deadhead" rig and jumped the starter solenoid to crank it over.
200psi on the gauge.

Cranked her again and hit the IPR jumper to the battery as well.
Deadhead pressure jumped to 3500psi and the starter loaded down almost immediately!

So, the good news is the HPOP isn't dead.

I started putting everything back together.
Got the fuel bowl back in and all the lines connected.
Dropped in the glow-plugs and connected everything under the valve covers as well as plugged in the gasket/harnesses.

Connected the batteries and turned the key on to pressurize the fuel side and check for leaks.

While checking around the fuel bowl and lines, I can hear fuel pouring on the driveway!



Forgot to close the fuel bowl drain...

Cleaned up the mess and turned the key again.
No leaks.


Installed the valve covers, connected the main harness, installed the CAC tubes, turbo inlet tube and air filter.
Refilled the coolant that I drained to remove the heater hose and cranked her over.

No start.

Grabbed the laptop to watch ICP pressure and it hits 200psi.

At least I've narrowed it down to something electrical from the IPR connector back.

Too dark to keep working so tomorrow's mission is to replace the original connector with the one I picked up to make the jumper and go from there.

 

Glad to hear you're at least on the right road to recovery! And I'd definitely take that Napa pigtail back - it's useless to you w/o the wire hoop if it's a bad connector. But if you have an old UVCH laying about, the injector plugs are the same, you can use one of them.

 

She LIVES!

Got home from work and went right to work.

Disconnected the batteries, removed the driver side CAC tube and unplugged the 42pin and IPR connectors.

Tested for continuity from red wire pin on the IPR to #24 pin on the 42 and got continuity.
Moved the probe to the yellow/red on the IPR and got continuity...? That shouldn't happen. It should go to pin #25.

Moved the probe to the #25 pin on the 42 and got continuity.
Moved the probe back to the red wire pin on the IPR connector and still got continuity...

Tells me I got a short in the harness between the IPR connector and the 42 pin connector.

Disconnected the remaining sensor connectors on that part of the harness so I could pull it out from behind the fuel bowl and took the tape and plastic loom off. Found the insulation on the IPR wires crumbling and the wires touching each other.

First thing that crossed my mind is I got it!
Then I started worrying that I might have fried the PCM with a dead short, (or shunt), across the IPR circuit.

Only one way for me to tell...
...cut off and replace the pigtail.
Put everything back together, connected the batteries and turn the key.

She cranked for about 2 seconds, she lit off and settled into idle.

I let her warm up and checked over everything for leaks.

After a full warm up, EOT up to 150, I took her for a ride around the neighbor hood.

She's so much more peppy with the new 180's...

 

Nice job, congratulations and thanks for the follow up, those make it much easier for others who encounter the same problems.

 

That's fantastic. Glad you got to the bottom of it and she's running.

 

We are seeing more and more of these connectors/wires coming apart lately.

Nice work on getting it sorted out.

What are your thoughts on the 1 off injector? Do you plan to leave it in place or install a new one?

 

Thanks.

As far as the follow-up, I feel the same way.
Everybody goes to forums for help and far too many never come back to close the "chapter" for lack of a better term.

I poured through tons of threads looking for ideas and learning what I needed and how to perform various tests.
I try to be detailed in my descriptions and as accurate as I can be.
Details can mean the difference between someone getting the help they need or just lead them further down the rabbit hole searching for answers.

I hope my thread will be able to help others in the future just as the many who post here have helped me.

 

At this point, I think I'm going to leave it.
It's just the oil discharge hole and it's dumping onto the head. The oil will just flow down to the rear to the rear of the head to the drain hole.

Full Force says their injectors are flow tested and in matched sets.
A replacement injector may not be matched to the others in the set.


Thoughts?

 

Did you use the pigtail w/o the metal hoop from Napa? Just wondering, if so I'd be worried about it vibrating off while driving.

 

I've been following this thread, though I would still be pretty useless in helping with your problem.

I have learned a great deal about the HPOP and related circuits from your problem and troubleshooting steps. Not expert yet, but can say this is one thread I would come back to if (possibly when) I have to figure out a related problem on my rig.

While I'm sure the experience was painful, you must feel great at this point for having learned enough to finally figure out the problem and fix it!

 

I did use the pigtail I got from Napa.
It locks positively onto the IPR. The tabs on the side of the connector lock onto where the stock connector bail locks on.

Funny thing is looking up the Ford part number shows both styles, with bail and with clips.
Ford 6E7Z-12A690-DA
Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Connector Repair Kit with built-in weather boot

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...n-6e7z12a690da

The only drawback to this style connector is the tabs are prone to breaking off when attempting to disconnect like many other connectors as they age and get brittle.