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I'm planning on buying a used 38r with 40,000 miles on it. My only concern is some seepage in the picture below. Is this known as a trouble spot for leaks? More photos are linked in the gallery below. Thank you in advance for any insight
Well, looks like a leak...you're going to rebuild it before you install anyway right? New Orings and bearings should make it like new. Personally, I would rebuild before putting it in regardless of what the outside looks like...but then I'm very proactive or is it ****? . Call Clay and order a rebuild kit, also look at your EBPV too. Delete it or rebuild it if you need/want it. How do your up pipes look?
Last I knew it was a throw away turbo as you can't get rebuild parts for it and sending it in to Garrett for a rebuild is more expensive than buying another new one if they even will rebuild it. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
Last I knew it was a throw away turbo as you can't get rebuild parts for it and sending it in to Garrett for a rebuild is more expensive than buying another new one if they even will rebuild it. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
Seriously...unserviceable? What genius decided that was a good idea? Learn something new everyday...
The 38R is prone to the exhaust side oil seal leakage if it is installed on a truck that rolls a lot of coal. The 38R does not like soot therefore the RPMs must be maintained at a higher level without lugging the engine down. The exhaust side oil seal can be replaced but it should be done by an authorized Garrett shop.
We have ran into this issue a few times on new 38Rs where we have had it re-sealed but it is not a warrantable issue.
__________________ Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels (970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
There a re guys on here with well over 100K miles on their 38R's with no issues. Mine has only about 20K on it. I love it. Although if I keep this truck I am planning on eventually moving to a T4 set-up, that doesn't change how much I like the 38R. It was a big improvement of stock with WW.
There a re guys on here with well over 100K miles on their 38R's with no issues. Mine has only about 20K on it. I love it. Although if I keep this truck I am planning on eventually moving to a T4 set-up, that doesn't change how much I like the 38R. It was a big improvement of stock with WW.
So was it an upgrade? What was the motivation for the end user to put on their trucks?
So was it an upgrade? What was the motivation for the end user to put on their trucks?
The stock 38 becomes very inefficient going much over stock boost levels. It goes out of MAP quickly and exhaust pressures rise much faster than boost. Basically it becomes a hot air blower in a short amount of time. Sure you can get a stock turbo to 30 PSI, but it's way out of it's MAP at that point and living on borrowed time.
The 38R will handle upwards of 40 PSI of boost, nearly double that of the stock turbo's efficiency range while spooling just as quickly. Plus it's a drop in turbo, meaning you don't have to change the mounting pedestal, up-pipes, intake, etc. For a decade and a half it's been the best drop-in turbo available, anything else that would outperform it you would have to switch to a T4 mount. So for a quick and easy modification, the 38R has been a popular choice. And it's been a very reliable turbo for a vast majority of owners. I had it in my truck and was running it when I put down the numbers in my sig. Great turbo, I loved it.
Gotcha Sous, still blown away someone thought unserviceable on something so critical was a good idea. I guess that's why we're here is to learn...
It is serviceable, it is not rebuildable, big difference.
Due to the ceramic ball bearings, unlike the brass journal bushings that can be replaced, when the ball bearings need to be replaced it is because they have self-destructed and taken out the races in the housing. There would be nothing left that would be salvageable. You can get a new 38R center cartridge but it costs as much as the complete turbo.
__________________ Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels (970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
03-22-2018, 01:05 AM
. Call Clay and order a rebuild kit, also look at your EBPV too. Delete it or rebuild it if you need/want it. How do your up pipes look? 
