Hello, I am moderately mechanically inclined but am completely stumped with this issue. Last Friday I drove the truck home, no problems ran like the dream it is. Truck sat all weekend, Monday came around and i went to start the truck and it didn't wanna start. I do have spark and fuel coming as far as the engine side of the High-pressure Fuel pump. But the truck just won't start. It is turning over, starting to fire but just doesn't have what it needs to start running. Timing was a suggested issue, however, I'm not sure how to check timing if engine doesn't run? Even using starter fluid doesn't make a difference, which worries me, I would think it should at least start up then shut down on the fluid.Any thoughts or ideas?

 

First welcome to FTE.
Have you tried to pull codes to see what the computer is saying? I would do that first, there are posts on how to pull codes on here.
Well you did do1 of the thing I was thinking you should try and that was "Even using starter fluid doesn't make a difference" so I would think that would rule out a fuel issue.
May still want to throw a fuel PSI gauge on it to make sure.

How many miles on the motor?
How did you check for spark and where at?
When you are trying to start it and it is cranking is it turning over / cranking at normal speed and sound?

To check to see if the timing chain has jumped, why I asked how it was cranking.
Pull #1 plug, turn motor over till the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). This can be done by putting a finger over the plug hole and when turning over your finger will be pushed off. Or using something to put in the plug hole and turn the motor over BY HAND ONLY till it gets pushed out. When it starts to go back in you are over the TDC point.

Once the piston is at TDC you can check this with the timing marks, should point at TDC. Now pull the dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug tower. It may be pointing 180* off if using the thing in the plug hole to get TDC.
If the rotor is not pointing to #1 tower or 180* off the chain has jumped.
That should give you some things to check and get back to us with what you found.
Dave ----

 

Like was said, pull the codes.

 

I went and bought a timing light. The motor is not getting consistent spark. I have pulled the codes before, about 6 months ago... It came up with many a many codes, I've replaced the sensors it came up with as bad ( ETC, MAPS,IACV). Since that point in time I haven't pulled them and no check engine light comes of when cracking on the truck. So I will pull the codes when i get a chance. In the mean time what are some of the things that could cause an erratic spark? My first guess (as it would be with any lightweight doo-little) is Distributor seeing as how a new one would replace the distributor itself, cap and the PIP sensor ( or as i understand it to be Fords version of a CPS in these trucks.) However, I would LOVE to figure out the problem instead of throwing parts at it.

 

If it is a spark issue the 2 things I see it could be is pickup coil inside the distributor that sends a signal to the ignition box or the box it's self .
​There has to be ways to check them I just don't know how.

The box I think on yours is the thing on the side of the distributor that the wires plug into. I don't think they are a lot of money and would not hurt to have a spare if that is not it.

The pickup coil is inside the distributor and it would need to come apart to replace it.
Dave - - - -

 

Diagnosing the problem certainly can be a challenge with no codes. Still, a complete check which includes KOEO, KOER, and CM codes can be revealing. I think the links in the FAQ's here have been long broken, but my favorite list of codes and instructions can be found here;

EEC IV Self Test hookup

Now, I am a bit surprised to hear you have a CEL. My 86 did not have one and that is the norm for pre 87 Ford trucks. If no codes are present and spark is weak, it is possible that you have a failure past the secondary side of the coil. Often this is the rotor which can deteriorate and flash over from the center post to the distributor shaft, robbing you of spark.

I think you are on the right track by looking at the distributor. The PIP sensor is a common failure, but it is pretty challenging to get the distributor apart to replace this piece. Often, bushings are worn as well. Check the shaft for side to side play. Rebuilt distributors are reasonably priced, but watch out for quality concerns.

 

The is a small silver almost AAbattery sized object that appears to be a sensor above the ignition coil. What is this? Ignition coil has been replaced and no apparent change to issue. The new distributor is in however, I haven't been able to crank on it much but it did have what seemed to be a chimmy to it on the quick second I had to crank on it. Then the battery went dead on me and it got dark. It be tomorrow before I get back to it.

 

It's a capacitor to prevent ignition-system noise in the radio (generally, only the AM band).

 

New distributor is in, no change to problem. I am now looking at the igintion control module. However I am having a hard time locating it on the truck. Its not on the driver side fender. I do have the module on the Distributor itself but shouldn't there be another?

 

No, there isn't another one; the DuraSpark II ICM is on the driver's side front wheel well under the hood; your module (known as the TFI module) is located on the distributor itself.

I'm going to agree with the others - your best chance of figuring out what's going on with a computer-controlled engine is to ask the computer, aka pull the codes.

 

DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE THE HELL THE EEC RELAY IS ON A 1986 F150 5.0 EFI ITS NOT BESIDE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY IM NOT GETTING ANY POWER TO THE FUEL PUMP AT ALLL I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO!!! PLEASE SOMEONE HELPPP

 

CAN SOMEONE MESSAGE ME PLEASEEE I NEEEDD HELPPP

 

If the distributor isn't loose, it's not timing but for some reason that's where a lot of would be mechanics want to attack first. Did you check the injectors to see if you have a blinking light there?

 

Maybe someone will if you stop yelling.

 

I used my test light and have power going to injectors