So after chasing down several leads on 5 speed transissions that turned out to be dead ends i have decided instead to swap to an e4od and got one hell of a deal on one out of a 1990 f super duty, for $330.00 i got the trans, the entire wiring harness, the computer, the cross member and supports, the shifter linkage, the yoke, all the hardware , braided stainless cooler lines, map sensor, vss, flps and related hardware and the overdrive cancel button. Also i will pick up the drive shaft of the proper length saturday. The transmision only had a few thousand miles on it since being built in 2015 and the truck it came from was an old county service truck with all the maintenance records in a binder behind the seat. I do have a couple of questions one being where to get a quality replacement pan for the transmission and maybe one of the factory reusable gaskets. the other being what is going to be diferent for the turbo piping from the c6 to the e4od,(first gen banks sidewinder) I am not terribly concerned about the up pipe because it is as far from the trans as it can possibly be but the down pipe is packed in there like sardines and i think it will clear the trans but maybe not the dip stick. I dare not to try asking the wonderful tech support at banks, when i asked them about doing the 5 speed swap they said i would have to change the entire system, that nothing was the same. i will remove the turbo and run n/a if I must but since I got the i/p and injectors right i have grown to like my krusty leaky overpriced banks turbo! Thanks for any help or suggestions guys.

transmission


wiring


cross member, supports and hardware


yoke

 

The E4OD and Turbo Down-Pipes will give you nightmares after that. The Swap can be done, and your dipstick can change shape if need be. Worst case scenario you could always change the height of it, by simply going with a dipstick that measures from the bottom (A little dipstick, like on Subaru Transaxles). This requires a bit of fabrication, but it can be done with relative ease. Certainly easier than making some custom turbo down-pipe setup. That being said... have fun getting the top bolt in with the turbo pipe... its so bad. The 1993 F250 with the stock turbo was a nightmare, which if I may offer a tip, take the turbo off completely and lay the exhaust all the way down. Then install the transmission before you reconnect all the turbo and exhaust stuff. Its a ton of work, but you will never get that top bolt in, even with it loose the pipe is just right there over that evil bellhousing bolt... cursed the turbo setup on IDIs is... cursed I say.

 

I cant speak to the sidewinder, but i have a first gen banks kit on the shelf. It came from a C6 pickup, and the up-pipes (1 piece) would not fit around the ZF. Anything fits with a little perseverance and some ingenuity however. The pan can be gotten anywhere that sells auto parts. From stock replacement to heavy duty deep pans in stainless, chrome, or cast aluminum. The dipstick will have to be altered, to what degree i dont know.

 

Summit has all sorts of E4OD pans to choose from. Since they have a Dorman pan for $36 that's probably even cheaper than sourcing one at a salvage yard if you want to save money. Check it out!

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...9%2B4294918908

 

the banks C6 pipes should work fine with the E4OD. the difference is between automatic and manual transmissions.
and a word of advice:
that trans in the picture did not come out of a 90 F-Superduty. that is a two wheel drive trans. the F-Superduty use a four wheel drive trans with a parking brake bolted to the tail where the transfer case would bolt.

 

You are right about the parking brake, i had forgotten that little nugget, wernt all the super dutys solid front axle too? This truck is probably something they cobbled together from the scrap pile or maybe the left fender had been robbed off an sd somewhere along the line who knows. Thanks for the info on the piping too i had it up on the lift yesterday and it looked like there was enough room

 

yes, all F-Superduty trucks were solid front axle with leaf springs. factory they were also two wheel drive, although a few companies did 4X4 conversions on the F-Superduty.

 

Just an update on this project, i have been to 3 junk yards that said they had the correct drive shaft only to find out its the wrong one. There are 2 more i can check one of which says its still in the truck so i can see it fits but they are both 100 or more miles away and only open monday thru Friday which would require me to take off work which is a major ordeal in its self. The good news is i found a factory computer bracket for an 86 that puts the computer under the dash also i have nearly completed the necessary mods to the harness the only thing i have not figured out is there are 2 wires that go straight from the tach sensor to the computer but only 1 comes out. Where does the tach ground go? Other than that i think i have everything that i will need

 

Just wanted to update again this project is going kinda slow but i am making progress. This week i finally got the correct drive shaft from a junkyard in South Carolina, also i got a new pan from napa as well as an oem reusable pan gasket and the correct filter. I also went ahead and got a new flps and map/baro sensor and 24 quarts of mercon v, additionally i bit the bullet and forked over the 60 bucks to banks for the correct dip stick so hopefully i can start swapping this weekend. I was told that i will need a 2 piece y pipe for the turbo which banks wants 500 bucks for so now i gotta come up with that or maybe modify my current y pipe! I hope im not too much bother with this but i want to post updates since alot of people dont

 

Thanks for the update.

You should consider modifying or fabbing your own Y pipe. Hopefully it would save you some money. If you try and fail then you can always order the one from Banks. I'm going to have to do some fabbing to install the Banks trubo on my 7.3l. The turbo setup is missing quite a few pieces, but it's nothing a little work an ingenuity can't fix.

Good luck with the project,

 

the pipes you have now should fit with no problems. there was no difference between the C-6 pipes and the E4OD pipes back in 2004, so i can't see there being any difference now.

 

I kind of figured they were both the same, that y pipe is run pretty far away from the transmission so it should work it will be close on the e4od linkage but nothing a ball peen hammer wont fix. Worse case scenario it doesnt fit at all i can utilize my sawzall and some flex pipe or i can drive it a mile and a half to the exhaust shop on open manifolds and have them build me one for $250 or less. I will not spend 600 bucks on some pipes if i can at all avoid it. Thanks you guys.

 

Does anyone know if you hook a scanner to the transmission control module (teca) if it will tell you anything more than codes? I have a snap on solus scanner that does everything and would like to see what the computer is seeing which my scanner will do on everything i have tried it on i just havent tried to view "pids" or live data on anything with EEC-IV i dont know if its even possible so if anyone ever has or knows who i can ask let me know. Thanks

 

Man I wish I could come across a good E4OD here. there are plenty of 5 sds but now good used auto around me. Good luck with your plan sir

 

Finished product


Flps in place


BARO sensor in o.e location


A/c clutch resistor diode ( TECA and tach- connect to this)


EEC test port tucked under the dash


TECA and bracket to mount under dash behind ash tray


Overdrive cancel switch grafted into factory panel


Up pipe is really a tight fit...


Not so bad on the down pipe


I hope the heat off the up pipe doesnt cook the transmission


I am back in buisiness! I honestly was not sure that i could pull this off but it went pretty well, the wiring was the most difficult part and what i did is not pretty but it is done right. I did not cut a single wire on the trucks harness so i could go back to the c6 with no evidence i had done any different. The trans harness on the other hand has been lengthened and shortened as needed always using solder seal connectors and shrink tubing just to be sure as well as split loom for added protection. I wish i was a good enough writer to do a full write up on the project but i am not so if someone wants to decipher this into useable info for others go for it. Here are a few pictures of the project.