Dual winches
#1
03-11-2018, 09:15 PM
Dual winches
Gotta have a winch up front if you do any off reading!
I couldn’t resist a good deal on a used winch for only $300! By the looks of the cable it’s never been used. $165 for a kit to get power to the rear and now I won’t be afraid of anything. I’ll just throw it in the back of the truck when I hit the back country. I also put in a BD high idle kit to keep these bad boys running with those awesome dual alternators.
#3
03-12-2018, 05:09 AM
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#4
03-12-2018, 06:44 AM
It’s a Fab Fours premium winch bumper. $1000 for a 16.5 is a steal. I don’t want to say what I paid for mine. Get that thing on the truck and off the barn floor!!!
#6
03-12-2018, 09:20 AM
I am running the Warn kit which has the power interrupt solenoid. It was a PITA and took a long time to do it right. I could only find ONE spot under the hood to put the solenoid and I used one of the bypass wires to run from the solenoid to the switch in the cab. I didn't feel comfortable tapping into ignition power under the dash so I used the lone "ignition hot" wire that is not part of the upfitter switchs but in the bundle of upfitter wires and ran it through the firewall to send power to the switch. At least it's bullet proof.
#7
03-12-2018, 09:21 AM
Join Date: Oct 2015
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I think that's the wrong fairlead for the rear winch. If you keep the steel cable then it should be a roller fairlead. I have an extra roller fairlead if you want it. If the fairlead you have is steel then it's OK to use with the steel cable but a roller fairlead is the norm.
I converted both my winches to synthetic rope and the fairleads were switched to aluminum hawse fairleads. The weight savings with both the rope and the hawse was significant. For the cradle mounted winch that was a big deal since I had to lug that thing around.
Dual winches can come in handy. A recovery I did a few years back required the rear winch to keep my truck on the road while the front winch pulled the other truck up the hill.
I converted both my winches to synthetic rope and the fairleads were switched to aluminum hawse fairleads. The weight savings with both the rope and the hawse was significant. For the cradle mounted winch that was a big deal since I had to lug that thing around.
Dual winches can come in handy. A recovery I did a few years back required the rear winch to keep my truck on the road while the front winch pulled the other truck up the hill.
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#8
03-12-2018, 10:15 AM
I am running the Warn kit which has the power interrupt solenoid. It was a PITA and took a long time to do it right. I could only find ONE spot under the hood to put the solenoid and I used one of the bypass wires to run from the solenoid to the switch in the cab. I didn't feel comfortable tapping into ignition power under the dash so I used the lone "ignition hot" wire that is not part of the upfitter switchs but in the bundle of upfitter wires and ran it through the firewall to send power to the switch. At least it's bullet proof.
#9
03-12-2018, 10:44 AM
#10
03-12-2018, 10:58 AM
I think that's the wrong fairlead for the rear winch. If you keep the steel cable then it should be a roller fairlead. I have an extra roller fairlead if you want it. If the fairlead you have is steel then it's OK to use with the steel cable but a roller fairlead is the norm.
I converted both my winches to synthetic rope and the fairleads were switched to aluminum hawse fairleads. The weight savings with both the rope and the hawse was significant. For the cradle mounted winch that was a big deal since I had to lug that thing around.
Dual winches can come in handy. A recovery I did a few years back required the rear winch to keep my truck on the road while the front winch pulled the other truck up the hill.
I converted both my winches to synthetic rope and the fairleads were switched to aluminum hawse fairleads. The weight savings with both the rope and the hawse was significant. For the cradle mounted winch that was a big deal since I had to lug that thing around.
Dual winches can come in handy. A recovery I did a few years back required the rear winch to keep my truck on the road while the front winch pulled the other truck up the hill.
#11
03-12-2018, 11:02 AM
I will take a few photos when I get home from work and I'll post them either tonight or tomorrow. If you are using the Warn kit, make sure you get the 24 foot length or you will run short. I have a long bed SuperCab which would be about the same length a short bed CC.
#12
03-12-2018, 01:41 PM
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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Yeah Jim, I know you're correct about the fairlead. I'm not sure why it doesn't have the rollers. I may take you up on your offer but I'm highly considering going to synthetic, mostly because that darn thing is HEAVY. I'll let you know, so thanks for the generousity. It's just killing me that my $300 deal is going to end up being over $700. I don't mind the labor I put into it because it's fun. Which synthetic winch rope do you recommend? Do you have the basically the same setup that I do?
I used Viking Offroad winch line: Viking Winchlines
I went from 100' of steel cable to 85' of synthetic rope. The last layer of rope on the drum has the most torque and will make the motor work the least along with drawing fewer amps from the battery. I went with a shorter rope so I didn't have to have to unroll 90' of rope to get to the last 10' on the drum. I also bumped up to a thicker diameter rope to get more strength. That was overkill on a 1/2 ton truck.
I frequently use a ****** block. It allows me to get more rope off the drum.
Besides weight reduction, the other reason I switched to synthetic is that it's much safer than steel cable. Steel cable has kinetic energy due to its weight. Rope has almost zero kinetic energy.
With synthetic rope you do have to be careful to not overheat the winch as it can melt the rope on the drum.
#13
03-13-2018, 08:38 AM
Here are some pics. The solenoid is on the passenger side high and against the firewall so you still have access to the fuse block below. I used a piece of stock metal I had laying around. It would be 10 times easier to just locate the switch in the engine bay but this is where I put it. There’s not much room behind the behind there. If you want more details on the wiring or anything else, PM me. Oh yeah, your mechanic will need some terminal lugs and crispers for 2 gauge wire.
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