When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Coulda had either 4 speed trans. 1967/72 F100/350: There SIX different shift levers, some don't list the specs. Why do you want to know?
I want to replace my after market shift arm with something that looks similar to stock. The one I have is too short and I have to reach over to shift gears.
Does yours have the screw on retainer like in the picture, or the one that goes inside to index on the 2 pins with about 1/8th turn? Figure out which one and go to the junkyards to find the right one. Also can be found in later models.
PC has a 3 speed with an aftermarket Hurst type floor shifter. For a 4 speed shifter look, cut your present shifter off down to a stub. Visit a trans shop for a worn out shifter which you might get for free, or visit the JY. Cut the shifter to your desired length and weld it to the stub. You might have to bend to the shape you want with a torch. Then finish with a 4 speed shifter boot.
Does yours have the screw on retainer (Warner T-18)like in the picture, or the one that goes inside to index on the 2 pins (New Process 435) with about 1/8th turn?
Figure out which one and go to the junkyards to find the right one. Also can be found in later models.
T-18 = F100/250 2WD / New Process 435 = F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 (thru 1972). T-19, similar to T-18 = 1973 and later F350.
I may have confused everyone, let me try again. I do not need to source a shifter, I was hoping someone here had one in their truck they could measure and tell me how tall it is from the floor to the ****.
20 inches from base of lever to end of shift **** threads. But with the bends takes about 22 inches of rod to get there.
i just made one for a trans swap to try and match the original. The original is an odd diameter ...approx .700 at the base and tapers to about 5/8. I just used 5/8 rod and it doesn’t quite look right.....
I found that a little difference in placement makes a big difference in ergonomics so even after measuring I had to tweak it quite a bit for comfort so best to mock it up first. It’s abattle between your elbow hitting the seat and running out of reach.
Just a note, the 3spd shifter is mounted farther back on the transmission then the std 4 spd shifter arm. If you make it as long as the 4spd shifter, you will be banging the back of the seat with your elbow.
Best thing, take a coat hanger and stretch it out straight and make a mock up. Then find a length of 1/2" rod and bent it to fit. Weld a short bolt on the end for the **** to screw onto. If you have a real Hurst shifter, the arm unbolts. Just cut the end off and weld the round bar to it so it just bolts back onto the shifter base. Some black paint and presto-chango you have a custom shifter.
The first 3 speed floor shifter I put in was from a car and had the same problem. I cut it off and welded a 4 speed shifter to it. worked like a charm. Since then I have purchased a 3 speed truck shifter. Still was a long time ago.
T-18 = F100/250 2WD / New Process 435 = F100/250 2WD/4WD & F350 (thru 1972). T-19, similar to T-18 = 1973 and later F350.
Thanks Bill, I can only ever remember by where reverse is. I never did make rhyme or reason out of which ones got used where and probably saw some that were swapped in later too.
Thanks Bill, I can only ever remember by where reverse is. I never did make rhyme or reason out of which ones got used where and probably saw some that were swapped in later too.
Originally (1965), reverse on the T-18 was...up...towards the dash, but circa 1973, Ford changed the shift pattern. Reverse was now...down...towards the seat, like the NP435.
20 inches from base of lever to end of shift **** threads. But with the bends takes about 22 inches of rod to get there.
i just made one for a trans swap to try and match the original. The original is an odd diameter ...approx .700 at the base and tapers to about 5/8. I just used 5/8 rod and it doesn’t quite look right.....
I found that a little difference in placement makes a big difference in ergonomics so even after measuring I had to tweak it quite a bit for comfort so best to mock it up first. It’s abattle between your elbow hitting the seat and running out of reach.