I have a 2010 XLS base model, no perimeter alarm system I know of, Just the factory PATS and then the panic alarm on the Key

Issue is that when I lock it with the keyfob button and then return and unlock with same (the IKT), sometimes the horn goes off upon opening any door to enter unlocked car. It's happening more and more. Panic button will not stop it, nor key in door, only key in ignition gets it to stop.

I've had to pull the horn fuse to keep from irritating others, but that's a safety issue and I need to get to the root of the problem. No codes found using my cheapo OBDII and torque, but I'm looking into getting Forscan working.

Oh, the weird part is that the horn going off does NOT sound like the panic alarm. It's not a uniform beeping and sounds kinda weak sometimes. As I turn the key, it gives a couple of sickly half beeps as it ends.

Any ideas ? What in the world is this machine doing? What system is being triggered by doors being opened after locking unlocking?

Thanks,
Steve

 

OK, I poked around and it turns out there is a dealer installed Ford Vehicle Security System. It's a Ford branded aftermarket (AudioVox?) CODE SYSTEMS VEHICLE SECURITY SYSTEM
H63DG GEN-2 7L3Z-19A361

So that's almost certainly what's causing the issues. I had no idea as there was no extra control nor information about it when I bought the vehicle in December.. I can only assume it's in some sort of semi-disabled mode (valet?)

Now - how to safely get this thing out of the car. I don't want any alarm or security other than PATS and wish to return the vehicle to factory condition. I found a dealer installation pdf for this unit on the 2012 escape which should be the same, but they show a very different install location and connections.


Assuming all these taps are for the Security system install, which is near the console fuse box, not at steering column as per Ford instructions


I'm hoping I can delete this by just disconnecting the main unit and then backtracking all the wires and pulling their taps and resplicing any wires actually interrupted. It was likely installed by the Mexican Ford dealer that sold the (US built) car, which would explain a professional looking installation that still cut corners and was done...creatively.

 

Oh crap - those taps look a night mare.

I'd try just unplugging the alarm box at its wiring plug and see what happens, whether you can start and run etc If you are lucky it is just a perimeter alarm with no engine inhibitor function (possible as that is already handled by PATS)

Quite likely it won't and you have to look in the wiring for where two taps bridge a factory wire that has been cut - ie the alarm must positively make a connection for normal vehicle operation (and you can't simply remove the box to steal the car.... That might be power to the fuel pump or similar.

 

Yep. I just pulled the whole thing this afternoon. I disconnected the head unit and tested, no problem. Traced and noted every wire from the harness then pulled the taps, patching the ugly slices into the insulation with hot glue. Tested vehicle again, all good.

The installation was some sort of creative mess. It had almost none of the main functions of the security system connected, and did not have a crank interrupt connected even though it's supposed to be as per Ford Escape instructions. Alternatively, they had split some single wires into four and tapped into four different wires in the harness such that they left out 5 of the 12 recommended connections but still had too many wires tapped. I can't figure out what they were doing or trying to do with the VSS in this install. Those VSS boxes are apparently multifunctional depending on how you hook them up. Remote start etc etc. There is even a wire for switching HVAC, which I guess will heat your vehicle while you're inside drinking coffee in the Winter, remote control in hand.

Anyway, it's gone and if the horn starts honking again for no reason, I'll REALLY be confused!

 

Glad you got it sorted, maybe they had problems with it so you saw "Modified v2.0" :-)

 

Actually, I think the installer was just smart enough to be dangerous. Example: for the input that tells alarm a door is open, Ford says to connect it to a dome light door open wire as this powers up when any door is open. Installer split the alarm wire into five and tapped into each individual "door trigger". A lot messier and the "trigger" wire is not the same as 12V + . They were following the wiring diagram with limited understanding and no apparent instructions.

They left every critical alarm function unused except the horn. No antenna, no shutoff, no motion sensor.. And the triggering was messed up. So it honked once in a while when the head unit misinterpreted a data signal for 12V, is my guess. I think that's why it was never documented in the original sale. It was a failed install and they just left it in.

Either that or they knew exactly what they were doing and it's a secret!