Gotcha, yeah it's been doing well since, then, I THINK...

Anywhere specific to test or just a wire from the dimmer and a clean ground?

Yes, I did, and now that the circular turner doesn't pop off, it turned off and parked properly.

Looks to be red/yellow, if I understand how coloring works properly. It runs over the fenderwell behind the brake booster into the firewall, I THINK it heads into the fusebox but I can't see where it goes perfectly.



Also, truck isn't feeling like starting today. I'm pretty sure I know what I did, which was let it basically run out of gas while I was fixing something, and went to head to the fuel station today and it didn't start. So I put some gas in the carb like I'm s'posed ta, but I might've flooded it, then I added a few gallons into the tank from a jerry can and she's still not starting so I'm letting her simmer for a bit and settle. Drained the battery a good amount so I'm charging that too. But, BUT, the starter worked perfectly every single time. It didn't stop cranking, even when the battery dropped it just looked like it was running out of power. So, sweet, I think.

Here's a picture of the carb, too. In case I'm missing anything, the air choke (I think it's called) is closed now, and it used to sit open. This changed after hooking up the advance can from the distributor. I also unhooked it to see if it started and it wasn't starting that way either. I think it'll start in a bit, but I don't know precisely what I did aside from letting it ride on less than a quarter of a tank.

 

I know that wire looks red/yellow, but I wonder if it's really red/lightgreen. Red/lightgreen is a ignition on circuit and used to go to the original coil. The only red/yellow I have found so far goes to the headlights.

In this diagram it shows the original ignition system. Start, Ignition, & Carb Circuits - ???Gary's Garagemahal

You can see the red/lightgreen has the resistor in it, this is not what you want for your new ignition. Also most people run a a new heavier wire directly from a 12v key-on source to a HEI ignition. They say it runs better with the larger gauge wire feeding it, the original Ford wire can be on the small side, and of course you do not want that resistor in the circuit.

 

Franklin2 ; In one of my previous posts I had asked the same question regarding the RED/yellow wire being RED/green. Have the same thought as you ......

While you're looking at the carb's nekked venturii, blip the throttle a coupla times....you're looking for a couple nice, clean squirts. Got squirts? Accelerator pump is working. No squirts? Well, you know what that means....AND letting the gas get low in the tank could cause a bunch of problems. Low fuel in the tank is where all the gas boogers hide and play. Good thing you have a clear fuel filter to see those miscreants.

Dimmer switch test: The test light probe to a wire/terminal (suspected HOT) to ground with the lights on and finagle the switch such that you're turning it from low beams to high beams. Check the other terminals for voltage when switching. It's probably bad anyway from your description. You could ohm it out also using the base as a ground, again switching it for low to high beams.

Franklin2: He's got more wires going into the fuse box than a can of worms...and just as bad to figure them out. But a 12 gauge wire from the ignition RUN terminal out to the coil or distributor then.....to however he's got it set up is a good call.

 

The red/yellow-hash provided power to various solenoids, e.g. the throttle kicker as depicted on Page 21 of the EVTM.

 

Focusing on the HEI module for the time being, I got the engine to fail to start a couple times. I had driven it around for a few hours straight the other night, and not only did it not start but I believe it killed the engine initially as well, as fuel was not an issue. Waited a few hours for it to cool down, and it started fine. Last two times it happened, the engine didn't die, it just refused to start for a while. It's been high 80s here the past couple of days, and the seat under the module itself is about the same temperature as the exhaust manifold most of the time. I got some thermal grease from Best Buy and put that under the module because there wasn't much left on there from before, and had the same issue. Used a test light ground to the frame in front of the radiator, no blinks on ANY of the four wires. Looking into taking it to Auto Zone and having them load test the module. New coil came in too, working on putting that on. It looks like there's two more positive and negative terminals on this one so I'm trying to figure out if it matters whether I used them all or not.

 

Your module may be intermittent, so there is no guarantee it will show up as bad on their machine, but try it anyway. When I take them in I leave them on the dashboard in the sun for a few hours so they get as hot as I can get them, go in the store and wait in line, tell them what I want to do, and when they are ready I go out and get the module and bring it in for them to test.

 

Good plan. Did a temperature check for giggles and the module is a full 9 degrees hotter than my exhaust manifold at 131 F, and the truck hasn't been run in almost three hours. Is this normal? It's only 90 here right now.

 

Don't know if normal or not but if run a bit then shut off objects get heat soak.
if you can the next time it will not start take ice and pack it around the module to cool it down and see if it starts.
Dave - - - -

 

I believe the module is toast......BUT....how's the coil's temperature when the engine is up to operating temp? Can you Ohm out the coil when the engine is up to operating temperature? If it Ohms out to spec, you've eliminated the coil as a possible HOT/ NO START issue...