1983 Ford F150 - Engine Died On the Road Now Starts Intermittently
#31
Thanks kr98664 and FuzzFace2 for asking for correct terminology that we all can understand.....hehe.
To cases here, and Brnfree is onto something:
If you have the DSII ignition system there could be a few electrical gremlins runnin' around in there but only one would cause the symptoms you describe.
In the vein of proper troubleshooting, we'll do one test at a time.
To kick one gremlin in the chops; again if you have the DSII system:
Attach one lead on your test light to the (-) TACH TEST terminal on the coil (be sure you have good, clean connections) and the other to a good, clean ground.
Have a helper crank her over.
Watch to see if the test light blinks when cranking.
Whatcha got?
This test will determine the disposition of the gremlin runnin' back and forth from the ICM, the coil and the stator.
To cases here, and Brnfree is onto something:
If you have the DSII ignition system there could be a few electrical gremlins runnin' around in there but only one would cause the symptoms you describe.
In the vein of proper troubleshooting, we'll do one test at a time.
To kick one gremlin in the chops; again if you have the DSII system:
Attach one lead on your test light to the (-) TACH TEST terminal on the coil (be sure you have good, clean connections) and the other to a good, clean ground.
Have a helper crank her over.
Watch to see if the test light blinks when cranking.
Whatcha got?
This test will determine the disposition of the gremlin runnin' back and forth from the ICM, the coil and the stator.
#32
#33
#34
Yes, you are forgiven. You may kiss the ring...
All seriousness aside, back to original poster, aren't the latest symptoms still very similar to the original problem? Just trying to get a handle on what has changed, if anything.
All seriousness aside, back to original poster, aren't the latest symptoms still very similar to the original problem? Just trying to get a handle on what has changed, if anything.
#35
I was also leaning toward the fusible link being an intermittent source of the problem but the ICM and stator have similar dysfunctions when going south.
I hesitated to offer up these electrical tests at first 'cause everyone was jumping on a fuel delivery issue, or mebbe a ground, old, worn out corroded battery/starter cables, etc.
Cleaned up fuel system and replaced cables later, the OP is still having electrical problems, ........ . With that in mind, and the problems he's having (despite his propensity to use highly technical terms), are classic symptoms of an ICM crapping the bed.
As you said, kr98664, one troubleshooting step at a time.
I had problems with a poster when I offered two troubleshooting steps at the same time. What happened was he or she did one (not very well or what I had specified, but close) and forgot about the second one. They get tied together, as you well know, and without specific answers to my specific questions, things got drawn out, overlooked and took more time than was necessary. Had to start over with a question like...."Who is buried in Grant's tomb?" Even that was ...touch and go fer a spell.......
#36
#38
When you turn the key to start and the starter engaged and motor moves we call cranking or turning over, not firing.
Now when the motor starts and runs or tries to start we call that firing or running.
that should help you to tell us what is going on so we can help better.
Dave - - - -
Now when the motor starts and runs or tries to start we call that firing or running.
that should help you to tell us what is going on so we can help better.
Dave - - - -
To kick one gremlin in the chops; again if you have the DSII system:
Attach one lead on your test light to the (-) TACH TEST terminal on the coil (be sure you have good, clean connections) and the other to a good, clean ground.
Have a helper crank her over.
Watch to see if the test light blinks when cranking.
Whatcha got?
This test will determine the disposition of the gremlin runnin' back and forth from the ICM, the coil and the stator.
Attach one lead on your test light to the (-) TACH TEST terminal on the coil (be sure you have good, clean connections) and the other to a good, clean ground.
Have a helper crank her over.
Watch to see if the test light blinks when cranking.
Whatcha got?
This test will determine the disposition of the gremlin runnin' back and forth from the ICM, the coil and the stator.
EDIT: Ordered a test light regardless, so in the instance a test light is more reliable/better than a multimeter, it'll be here in a couple days and I can have the results then. Thanks again for everyone's help, and I am immensely appreciative of your attempt to understand my made-up lingo. Before this vehicle I hadn't ever even changed a tire, so there's no dispute there's a substantial lack of technical knowledge and I know a lot of it is incredibly specific to situations, and I'm sorry for my lack of clarity in some (most) areas.
#39
You could make a test light.....you could buy one from the parts store for around 12 bucks.....
But you WILL need tools! A DVOM, a timing light, a vacuum gauge various screwdrivers, wrenches (mebbe a wench or two...haha), etc.
I'm sure we all appreciate your honesty about not knowing where the naughty end of a weapon might be......we all weren't born brilliant..(well, maybe one ...or three), some had brilliance thrust upon them, and some - like me - fell off the turnip truck in a state of confusion. I also had to put my hand on a hot stove to determine if it really was hot......
Enough cliches!!!
Ok, pictures! We need pictures to help you determine what's what in you engine bay. Distributor, coil, wiring to/from the ICM, etc....you get the "picture?"
But you WILL need tools! A DVOM, a timing light, a vacuum gauge various screwdrivers, wrenches (mebbe a wench or two...haha), etc.
I'm sure we all appreciate your honesty about not knowing where the naughty end of a weapon might be......we all weren't born brilliant..(well, maybe one ...or three), some had brilliance thrust upon them, and some - like me - fell off the turnip truck in a state of confusion. I also had to put my hand on a hot stove to determine if it really was hot......
Enough cliches!!!
Ok, pictures! We need pictures to help you determine what's what in you engine bay. Distributor, coil, wiring to/from the ICM, etc....you get the "picture?"
#40
Now that we can communicate a little better now, I think he has a fuel problem. He checked the carb that one time and saw no fuel at all. We know the fuel system is a dirty mess. He says it's cranking over fine (till he runs the battery down) and it tries to "fire" and run and then just cranks again. So I think everything is working except the fuel system.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
#41
You could make a test light.....you could buy one from the parts store for around 12 bucks.....
But you WILL need tools! A DVOM, a timing light, a vacuum gauge various screwdrivers, wrenches (mebbe a wench or two...haha), etc.
I'm sure we all appreciate your honesty about not knowing where the naughty end of a weapon might be......we all weren't born brilliant..(well, maybe one ...or three), some had brilliance thrust upon them, and some - like me - fell off the turnip truck in a state of confusion. I also had to put my hand on a hot stove to determine if it really was hot......
Enough cliches!!!
Ok, pictures! We need pictures to help you determine what's what in you engine bay. Distributor, coil, wiring to/from the ICM, etc....you get the "picture?"
But you WILL need tools! A DVOM, a timing light, a vacuum gauge various screwdrivers, wrenches (mebbe a wench or two...haha), etc.
I'm sure we all appreciate your honesty about not knowing where the naughty end of a weapon might be......we all weren't born brilliant..(well, maybe one ...or three), some had brilliance thrust upon them, and some - like me - fell off the turnip truck in a state of confusion. I also had to put my hand on a hot stove to determine if it really was hot......
Enough cliches!!!
Ok, pictures! We need pictures to help you determine what's what in you engine bay. Distributor, coil, wiring to/from the ICM, etc....you get the "picture?"
Now that we can communicate a little better now, I think he has a fuel problem. He checked the carb that one time and saw no fuel at all. We know the fuel system is a dirty mess. He says it's cranking over fine (till he runs the battery down) and it tries to "fire" and run and then just cranks again. So I think everything is working except the fuel system.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
That being said, I definitely think it's a good idea to test it out in that way, so would I detach my fuel hose from my carb to do this or will it skew results drastically to leave it connected to the gas tank? Stupid question, but I want to make sure it's not wasted time because I did it wrong and come back telling you guys everything works when really it may not.
The picture below is of the current state of the fuel in the filter, and it's a bit more colorful from the way the sun is hitting it, but it still isn't perfectly clear either. So take it with a grain of salt in either direction.
#42
Now that we can communicate a little better now, I think he has a fuel problem. He checked the carb that one time and saw no fuel at all. We know the fuel system is a dirty mess. He says it's cranking over fine (till he runs the battery down) and it tries to "fire" and run and then just cranks again. So I think everything is working except the fuel system.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
If he wants to check this theory, go out to your lawnmower gas can and pour a little bit of fuel into a small container. With a good battery, the engine is cranking over fine, pull the aircleaner off and put just a small little blip of fuel down the carb. Then get it in and crank it over. See if it sputters and tries to start. It may even run a second or two. Then that small little bit of fuel will be burn up. You can put another small amount of fuel down the carb and try it again. If it tries to run each time you put just a small bit of fuel in the carb, you know you have a fuel problem.
Don't get the grand idea to pour half the fuel container down inside the carb, it will just flood the engine and it will not run at all then.
EDIT: My slow typing skills have me at a disadvantage - I posted this up (what I thought) was before the OP snapped up the pictures.
#43
Looks to be a DSI ignition system....BUT WAIT!!......
Am I seeing an HEI type 4 pin module attached to the base of the distributor?.......If it is, there's no need for an ICM...can't see one anyway.......BUT WAIT!!!!.....
And some kind of wiring mess going into the coil from the distributor? Or vice-versa?
Can't make out the wiring spaghetti on top of the power steering pump.....me old, tired eyeball ain't what it use to be. Mebbe some one younger - or with better eyeballs - can help trace these out?
Nice, shiny new Edlebunk 1406.....EGR
Am I seeing an HEI type 4 pin module attached to the base of the distributor?.......If it is, there's no need for an ICM...can't see one anyway.......BUT WAIT!!!!.....
And some kind of wiring mess going into the coil from the distributor? Or vice-versa?
Can't make out the wiring spaghetti on top of the power steering pump.....me old, tired eyeball ain't what it use to be. Mebbe some one younger - or with better eyeballs - can help trace these out?
Nice, shiny new Edlebunk 1406.....EGR
#44
#45
That's on the (-) side of the coil for a tach. It's a T connector with heat shrink tubing over the connection. The long red wire coming from the carb/ wiring mess on the head cover goes directly into the fusebox. The coil is hooked up to the mess on top of the power steering pump and that goes up around the brake booster into the firewall, however.
Looks to be a DSI ignition system....BUT WAIT!!......
Am I seeing an HEI type 4 pin module attached to the base of the distributor?.......If it is, there's no need for an ICM...can't see one anyway.......BUT WAIT!!!!.....
And some kind of wiring mess going into the coil from the distributor? Or vice-versa?
Can't make out the wiring spaghetti on top of the power steering pump.....me old, tired eyeball ain't what it use to be. Mebbe some one younger - or with better eyeballs - can help trace these out?
Nice, shiny new Edlebunk 1406.....EGR
Am I seeing an HEI type 4 pin module attached to the base of the distributor?.......If it is, there's no need for an ICM...can't see one anyway.......BUT WAIT!!!!.....
And some kind of wiring mess going into the coil from the distributor? Or vice-versa?
Can't make out the wiring spaghetti on top of the power steering pump.....me old, tired eyeball ain't what it use to be. Mebbe some one younger - or with better eyeballs - can help trace these out?
Nice, shiny new Edlebunk 1406.....EGR