When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My new to me f100 is giving me trouble. When I first got it, a few months ago it would start but would not idle. Seemed like an easy fix, i.e. clogged carb or some other fuel line issue. Now, after a few attempts to start it, I am only get a single loud click at the starter relay, nothing else. My first thought is I burned out the starter, but I'm open to any and all advice/suggestions I can find.
My new to me f100 is giving me trouble. When I first got it, a few months ago it would start but would not idle. Seemed like an easy fix, i.e. clogged carb or some other fuel line issue. Now, after a few attempts to start it, I am only get a single loud click at the starter relay, nothing else. My first thought is I burned out the starter, but I'm open to any and all advice/suggestions I can find.
Yes it's possible. Starter takes a lot of power. So does the head lights. Do the head lights work as they should. If so, than most likely you need to clean the cable ends. At the starter or battery.
There are 2 things you need if you own a car or truck and would like to do basic electric diagnosis. A test light, and a VOM. You can buy both for under 40 bux at Sears. You will save that $40.00 bux on your first diagnosis. In this case pick up a VOM and see what you have for voltage at the battery. And take Riders advise and clean the cable ends, all of them, battery, solinoid, and starter, as well as the grounds.
This truck likely needs a complete tune up.
Let me try to explain these engines on these old vehicles. They can hang on a good while with out of spec stuff. Let's say it takes A B C D E F G to run perfectly. D has give it up. You replace or renew D, still or won't run right. It's going to take Replacing ABCEFG to get it back right.
Electrical....
Charge battery
check connections especially the sylenoid and the heavy ground cables.
Check the heavy lead to the starter
Check all connections from the switch to the distributor
pay attention to the coil connection
check for spark....good spark at the points
consider new points, plugs condenser...maybe new plug wires
Fuel
Check fuel tank...if rusty replace it! A rusty tank will destroy fuel pumps and carberetors and will leave you stranded.
fuel pump.....these go out ethanol gas kills them
metal lines....blow them out.
rubber lines...renew due to ethanol and age
carberetor consider rebuild if other things do not help
Time...
check timing
this may mean finding #1 and going from there.
The advance may need to be adjusted on distributor position
So after getting into cleaning all my connections I find my ignition coil wire is severed and frayed in the middle. Not sure if something chewed on it or if there is any reason/way the previous owner did this on purpose and wired it via an alternative method.
That wire on the inner fender is what your talking about? If so and that is your coil wire then, at least to me is weird. On my truck it comes out of firewall and right on top of engine by valve cover with the coolant and oil wires
These old trucks are always going to have serious electrical & corrosion problems in the grounds and connections by now unless you or someone has taken the time to make it otherwise. It is very likely that every single battery cable, starter cable, block to frame and firewall etc cable, are original equipment. Be sure to replace these with new. All the block connector pins & receptacles through the firewall, SAE and bayonet connectors etc need cleaning. It's pretty amazing these connections work at all when you think about it. 50 years out in the rain and pollution & salt and ozone and rust and all that crap.
Whatcha think Ted, doesn't look like the original resistor wire to me . Some one ran that wire because most likely the original one broke somewhere along it length. AS DID this one. Looks like a break to me. Look about 2" up that wire. Looks like another break is happening.
To me, that looks like the wire to run the electric windshield washer fluid pump. Shown as *17A674 in this drawing, coming out of the firewall just above the main connectors.
To me, that looks like the wire to run the electric windshield washer fluid pump. Shown as *17A674 in this drawing, coming out of the firewall just above the main connectors.
Chad
I am with Chad on this one.
If its a no-start its a 10 min diagnosis as to why.
Does engine crank fine: If a no crank (after cleaning connections and making sure battery is fully charged) check for 12 volts on starter side of starter solenoid/relay . No 12 volts or full battery voltage then its the start circuit. Check for 12 volts at small wire nearest battery cable side. Remove wire turn key to start and see if you have 12 volts
looks like multiple posts on this will have to re-read
I was going to mention that, anytime the engine fails to start it is always a good practice to put battery on a charger. Keep it at 100%; if anything it will last longer.
Get rid of those old start and battery cables. Make sure solenoid itself has a clean tight ground.
Turns out had a bad ground cable from the starter relay to the starter. Replaced it and started right up. Now onto a fuel issue. It starts up right away but only idles for a few seconds and quits. Where's the best place to start with fuel issues?
Turns out had a bad ground cable from the starter relay to the starter. Replaced it and started right up. Now onto a fuel issue. It starts up right away but only idles for a few seconds and quits. Where's the best place to start with fuel issues?
Does this happen when cold or hot or both? Manual or electric choke? Try keeping it choked fully or just barely open and see if it runs. Does it accelerate at all? Could be fuel delivery issue if it won't accelerate as well as idle. But if it will accelerate but won't idle then you have a problem with idle circuit in carb. Things you can do is to pull fuel line off and crank and see if fuel comes out (should be a good flow not a dribble) and this is assuming mech pump. If there isn't good flow either blockage in fuel line or pump is worn. If good flow carburetor my need just adjustment or cleaned and rebuilt.
02-28-2018, 07:01 PM
. Some one ran that wire because most likely the original one broke somewhere along it length. AS DID this one. Looks like a break to me. Look about 2" up that wire. Looks like another break is happening.
