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#1 #8 injectors failed buzz test. 7.3 no start

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Old 02-02-2019, 08:59 AM
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#1 #8 injectors failed buzz test. 7.3 no start

So I recently bought my first diesel and being the penny pincher I am I found a "non-running" one for dirt cheap. The guy I bought it from (hopefully being honest) said that the mechanic he took it to had replaced the fuel sensing unit. It ran for a while then stopped running. He took it back and they said that it needed new injectors. The #1 injector and the #8 injector failed the buzz test. Now I'm new to the diesel world but I would assume with 6 out of 8 injectors the truck would still run? Could it be a current issue going through the bank causing none of them to fire?
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:12 AM
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Yep, it would/should run on 6. There is a no start/hard start link in my signature that will guide you through the process. the 7.3 is way down the page. Diagnosis is key, throwing parts at it is futile and most shops don't know what they are doing with these engines, others yet are just plain crooks.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Yep, it would/should run on 6. There is a no start/hard start link in my signature that will guide you through the process. the 7.3 is way down the page. Diagnosis is key, throwing parts at it is futile and most shops don't know what they are doing with these engines, others yet are just plain crooks.
thank you I will take a look when I get back! I would have to guess a fuel problem but I guess we will find out
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:56 AM
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Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? 45-65 psi is the range. How much fuel in the tank? Less than a 1/4,tank, if your pick up foot broke off you may not have the fuel to start the truck. That’s where a fuel pressure gauge helps. Google Hutch & Harpoon mod.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? 45-65 psi is the range. How much fuel in the tank? Less than a 1/4,tank, if your pick up foot broke off you may not have the fuel to start the truck. That’s where a fuel pressure gauge helps. Google Hutch & Harpoon mod.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge but I'm sure I can pick one up at the parts store. Theres just under half a tank so I've already ruled out the pick up tube.it has 2 newer batteries, tested them myself and they are still good.i have torque pro and car gauge but I am not too sure on what setting I need to view the right information. If it changes anything the service engine and oil lights come on but as soon as you turn it over they go away. I found no codes scanning it. The oil on the dipstick was about 3/4 of the way up. There was some air bubbles on it if that changes anything. What fuses are for the fuel system in these? I've looked and seen multiple different answers so I'm not too sure which ones to check. When you turn it over after about 2 cycles it tries real hard to start while you still have the key turning and it occasionally will hold an idle for a second or two. That's about all I have for now
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:50 PM
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When you first turn the key on you should be able to hear your fuel pump run for about 20 seconds. It sits inside the frame directly under the driver's seat. Does the WTS light come on with the key?
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:53 PM
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Yes there is a sort of humming and buzzing sound from that general area. The wts light does come after every crank cycle. Is there not a fuel pump inside of the tank? Or is it all ran externally?
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:55 PM
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There is a yellow lever on the back of your fuel bowl that opens the drain to the bowl. It drains through about a 3/8" tube down the front of the engine on the passenger's side. You can open that drain and catch the fuel in a bucket and turn the key on and see what comes out. Alternatively you can remove the lid and filter from the fuel bowl and turn the key on and see how fast the fuel come out. It should flow pretty good but I can't give you a definitive amount.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 12:55 PM
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The WAIT TO START (WTS) Light has NOTHING to do with the GPR. The GPR will remain active for up to 2 minutes when the oil is cold. You can wire a small LED to the GPR and you’ll know how long the GPR is activated. I’d also plug the truck in for a few hours just to make everything easier on the truck during starting. I’d leave a charger on the batteries while you’re trying to get the truck started. Are there any additives in the oil, some will cause foaming of the oil. Page 154-155 in the manual has the fuses for the truck. Do you hear the pump priming when you turn the key, below front DS door on the frame.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Colorado350
The WAIT TO START (WTS) Light has NOTHING to do with the GPR. The GPR will remain active for up to 2 minutes when the oil is cold. You can wire a small LED to the GPR and you’ll know how long the GPR is activated. I’d also plug the truck in for a few hours just to make everything easier on the truck during starting. I’d leave a charger on the batteries while you’re trying to get the truck started. Are there any additives in the oil, some will cause foaming of the oil. Page 154-155 in the manual has the fuses for the truck. Do you hear the pump priming when you turn the key, below front DS door on the frame.
you know I never asked the guy if he ran any additives or not. The oil is pretty dark so I think I'll change the oil this weekend. I do believe I hear the pump priming yes. I have yet to check the hpop levels but will go do that
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
There is a yellow lever on the back of your fuel bowl that opens the drain to the bowl. It drains through about a 3/8" tube down the front of the engine on the passenger's side. You can open that drain and catch the fuel in a bucket and turn the key on and see what comes out. Alternatively you can remove the lid and filter from the fuel bowl and turn the key on and see how fast the fuel come out. It should flow pretty good but I can't give you a definitive amount.
okay thank you. I will make some sort of contraption to see what happens
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:06 PM
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I did run a flow rate test with the torque pro app and with it cranking over a few times it registered at .1 gal/min. I do not how accurate this test is if at all but I figured I would give it a try
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nsmock
you know I never asked the guy if he ran any additives or not. The oil is pretty dark so I think I'll change the oil this weekend. I do believe I hear the pump priming yes. I have yet to check the hpop levels but will go do that
Someone posted about this recently, if you want the oil to remain clean for more than 10 minutes after your oil change you should flush out the oil lines in the head and the HPOP with each oil change. Since your injectors sound like they are shot, it probably won't do you much good but is a good habit to get into for when you do change them out.

I didn't realize how much the HPOP and heads hold, but it's about 3 quarts of oil that doesn't circulate as well as you would think. The truck actually holds 18 qts. The (mildy annoying) powerstroke help guy has some tutorials on Youtube.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Nsmock
I did run a flow rate test with the torque pro app and with it cranking over a few times it registered at .1 gal/min. I do not how accurate this test is if at all but I figured I would give it a try
I don't think that there is any flow that can be measured on these things so I don't know what your app was looking at...unless it reads off of the lie-o-meter that some of them have up on the ceiling of the cab.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 01:35 PM
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There is a good bit of oil around the engine. Mainly around the rear of the drivers valve cover and in the front center. It looks like it has been there for a good while as it is pretty caked on. I'll pull off the turbo piping and check the valve cover for any leaks and the turbo. As for the front I could only imagine the hpop reservoir leaked out at one point. I will post what my finding are if there are any
 

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