#1 #8 injectors failed buzz test. 7.3 no start
#1
#1 #8 injectors failed buzz test. 7.3 no start
So I recently bought my first diesel and being the penny pincher I am I found a "non-running" one for dirt cheap. The guy I bought it from (hopefully being honest) said that the mechanic he took it to had replaced the fuel sensing unit. It ran for a while then stopped running. He took it back and they said that it needed new injectors. The #1 injector and the #8 injector failed the buzz test. Now I'm new to the diesel world but I would assume with 6 out of 8 injectors the truck would still run? Could it be a current issue going through the bank causing none of them to fire?
#2
Yep, it would/should run on 6. There is a no start/hard start link in my signature that will guide you through the process. the 7.3 is way down the page. Diagnosis is key, throwing parts at it is futile and most shops don't know what they are doing with these engines, others yet are just plain crooks.
#3
Yep, it would/should run on 6. There is a no start/hard start link in my signature that will guide you through the process. the 7.3 is way down the page. Diagnosis is key, throwing parts at it is futile and most shops don't know what they are doing with these engines, others yet are just plain crooks.
#4
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? 45-65 psi is the range. How much fuel in the tank? Less than a 1/4,tank, if your pick up foot broke off you may not have the fuel to start the truck. That’s where a fuel pressure gauge helps. Google Hutch & Harpoon mod.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
#5
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? 45-65 psi is the range. How much fuel in the tank? Less than a 1/4,tank, if your pick up foot broke off you may not have the fuel to start the truck. That’s where a fuel pressure gauge helps. Google Hutch & Harpoon mod.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
‘Get the batteries load tested, if they don’t pass buy TWO new batteries. Get Torque Pro or ForScan and the appropriate reader and set up so you can see what is going on with the engine. There’s things these trucks NEED to start and need to run. Keep researching then do more research THEN buy...
‘IF you change the injectors change all 8 don’t play hunt and peck. Rosewood rebuilds injectors or you can buy new.
#7
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#8
There is a yellow lever on the back of your fuel bowl that opens the drain to the bowl. It drains through about a 3/8" tube down the front of the engine on the passenger's side. You can open that drain and catch the fuel in a bucket and turn the key on and see what comes out. Alternatively you can remove the lid and filter from the fuel bowl and turn the key on and see how fast the fuel come out. It should flow pretty good but I can't give you a definitive amount.
#9
The WAIT TO START (WTS) Light has NOTHING to do with the GPR. The GPR will remain active for up to 2 minutes when the oil is cold. You can wire a small LED to the GPR and you’ll know how long the GPR is activated. I’d also plug the truck in for a few hours just to make everything easier on the truck during starting. I’d leave a charger on the batteries while you’re trying to get the truck started. Are there any additives in the oil, some will cause foaming of the oil. Page 154-155 in the manual has the fuses for the truck. Do you hear the pump priming when you turn the key, below front DS door on the frame.
#10
The WAIT TO START (WTS) Light has NOTHING to do with the GPR. The GPR will remain active for up to 2 minutes when the oil is cold. You can wire a small LED to the GPR and you’ll know how long the GPR is activated. I’d also plug the truck in for a few hours just to make everything easier on the truck during starting. I’d leave a charger on the batteries while you’re trying to get the truck started. Are there any additives in the oil, some will cause foaming of the oil. Page 154-155 in the manual has the fuses for the truck. Do you hear the pump priming when you turn the key, below front DS door on the frame.
#11
There is a yellow lever on the back of your fuel bowl that opens the drain to the bowl. It drains through about a 3/8" tube down the front of the engine on the passenger's side. You can open that drain and catch the fuel in a bucket and turn the key on and see what comes out. Alternatively you can remove the lid and filter from the fuel bowl and turn the key on and see how fast the fuel come out. It should flow pretty good but I can't give you a definitive amount.
#12
#13
I didn't realize how much the HPOP and heads hold, but it's about 3 quarts of oil that doesn't circulate as well as you would think. The truck actually holds 18 qts. The (mildy annoying) powerstroke help guy has some tutorials on Youtube.
#14
I don't think that there is any flow that can be measured on these things so I don't know what your app was looking at...unless it reads off of the lie-o-meter that some of them have up on the ceiling of the cab.
#15
There is a good bit of oil around the engine. Mainly around the rear of the drivers valve cover and in the front center. It looks like it has been there for a good while as it is pretty caked on. I'll pull off the turbo piping and check the valve cover for any leaks and the turbo. As for the front I could only imagine the hpop reservoir leaked out at one point. I will post what my finding are if there are any