School me on the Bullnose 150's
#1
School me on the Bullnose 150's
So I'm seriously thinking about picking up a Bullnose project truck and would like to get some more info from those that know!
Here's what my goals are with the truck. Looking to have a nice driver/cruiser, lowered, 4 wheel disc, larger wheel tire combo, V8, nice exhaust, handling, possibly a HCI in future. Kinda like an early lightning but not a copy.
Is one year better than another? What are some pros and cons in the Bullnose family?
what is a fair price range to be looking at for a clean standard cab short bed 2wd v8 Truck?
paint and interior don't need to be perfect but would like a solid body foundation.
I'm not looking at build a 500hp street beast just a nice mild clean truck.
Thanks all!
Here's what my goals are with the truck. Looking to have a nice driver/cruiser, lowered, 4 wheel disc, larger wheel tire combo, V8, nice exhaust, handling, possibly a HCI in future. Kinda like an early lightning but not a copy.
Is one year better than another? What are some pros and cons in the Bullnose family?
what is a fair price range to be looking at for a clean standard cab short bed 2wd v8 Truck?
paint and interior don't need to be perfect but would like a solid body foundation.
I'm not looking at build a 500hp street beast just a nice mild clean truck.
Thanks all!
Last edited by LadderDogV10; 02-24-2018 at 05:58 PM. Reason: More info
#2
Do you prefer manual or auto trans?
If manual, one difference in the Bullnose trucks is that hydraulic clutch showed up in 1984 (maybe 1983), and they do have an issue where the firewall cracks on the manual trans trucks.
I was specifically looking for a manual trans Bullnose myself, and while I didn't know about the hydraulic clutch in 1984, it turned out to be a pro because it is making my 5spd swap very easy.
If you're wanting an auto trans truck, then none of that really matters.
If manual, one difference in the Bullnose trucks is that hydraulic clutch showed up in 1984 (maybe 1983), and they do have an issue where the firewall cracks on the manual trans trucks.
I was specifically looking for a manual trans Bullnose myself, and while I didn't know about the hydraulic clutch in 1984, it turned out to be a pro because it is making my 5spd swap very easy.
If you're wanting an auto trans truck, then none of that really matters.
#3
It sounds like you want to do a Crown Vic front suspension swap or a full CV frame/drive train swap.
This is done more on the older F100/F150 trucks so look in that area to see whatI am talking about.
There is a member (monkey-1) in here doing a CV front suspension/motor/trany swap and a explore rear axle.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wap-4-6-a.html
Now you can lower 83-86 trucks https://djmsuspension.com/
The 80-82 have kingpins and they don't make beams* for them.
* A member just posted that they made a set for him to try and if they work they may start making them.
Dave ----
This is done more on the older F100/F150 trucks so look in that area to see whatI am talking about.
There is a member (monkey-1) in here doing a CV front suspension/motor/trany swap and a explore rear axle.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wap-4-6-a.html
Now you can lower 83-86 trucks https://djmsuspension.com/
The 80-82 have kingpins and they don't make beams* for them.
* A member just posted that they made a set for him to try and if they work they may start making them.
Dave ----
#4
Do you prefer manual or auto trans?
If manual, one difference in the Bullnose trucks is that hydraulic clutch showed up in 1984 (maybe 1983), and they do have an issue where the firewall cracks on the manual trans trucks.
I was specifically looking for a manual trans Bullnose myself, and while I didn't know about the hydraulic clutch in 1984, it turned out to be a pro because it is making my 5spd swap very easy.
If you're wanting an auto trans truck, then none of that really matters.
If manual, one difference in the Bullnose trucks is that hydraulic clutch showed up in 1984 (maybe 1983), and they do have an issue where the firewall cracks on the manual trans trucks.
I was specifically looking for a manual trans Bullnose myself, and while I didn't know about the hydraulic clutch in 1984, it turned out to be a pro because it is making my 5spd swap very easy.
If you're wanting an auto trans truck, then none of that really matters.
#5
Like was mentioned, you said "lowered" and the front twin i beam suspension on these trucks is a little hard to deal with, the only way to lower it is buy special drop beams if you want to keep the original suspension. Or get rid of it all together.
I am thinking your biggest problem living in Ohio is finding one that is not all rusted up. Being you want a 2wd that might be a little bit easier, but even in Va it's very difficult to find one of these trucks in good shape.
I am thinking your biggest problem living in Ohio is finding one that is not all rusted up. Being you want a 2wd that might be a little bit easier, but even in Va it's very difficult to find one of these trucks in good shape.
#6
Thanks for the replies, I’d be more than likely looking at autos. I’m deciding if Id like to go forward with a bumpside or bullnose project. The bump is such a classic truck but the bullnose has done more modern conveniences that may be nice as well. And the bullnose has a classic look in its own right.
Yes being in ohio sucks for for finding a clean truck, but I’m not opposed to traveling to get one or having one shipped.
Yes being in ohio sucks for for finding a clean truck, but I’m not opposed to traveling to get one or having one shipped.
#7
Thanks for the replies, I’d be more than likely looking at autos. I’m deciding if Id like to go forward with a bumpside or bullnose project. The bump is such a classic truck but the bullnose has done more modern conveniences that may be nice as well. And the bullnose has a classic look in its own right.
Yes being in ohio sucks for for finding a clean truck, but I’m not opposed to traveling to get one or having one shipped.
Yes being in ohio sucks for for finding a clean truck, but I’m not opposed to traveling to get one or having one shipped.
Also, according to Wikipedia, the 86 years had more galvanization than the 80-85. 80-82 had the swiss cheese frame. 84-86 4.9 and 5.0 have more electronic gizmos/computerized engine control.
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#8
80/81 trucks have FORD lettering on the hood. No blue oval in the grill. Also have those "swiss cheese" frames. Not nearly as big a problem as some would have you believe. Later trucks have no hood lettering, blue oval grills and the better frames.
80 had a unique wiring harness. Parts availability is scarce, later components would retrofit with a complete harness change.
9" diff till about 84. 8.8 in later trucks, some years can be a mix. I'm sure ND has the exact cutoff dates.
If you want the V8, I would suggest looking for an 85 or 86. EFI is a huge plus. Feedback carburetors can be a bit intimidating. I'm sure there will be other opinions, but I like to stir the pot.
You won't find an original dashboard pad that is not cracked. Don't pass up an otherwise good truck because you believe you will find one.
Rust can be a big problem. Check the rad cradle mounting points. Check the frame. Check the floors and cab corners. Wheel archs will almost certainly be rusting. Panels and patches are available.
80 had a unique wiring harness. Parts availability is scarce, later components would retrofit with a complete harness change.
9" diff till about 84. 8.8 in later trucks, some years can be a mix. I'm sure ND has the exact cutoff dates.
If you want the V8, I would suggest looking for an 85 or 86. EFI is a huge plus. Feedback carburetors can be a bit intimidating. I'm sure there will be other opinions, but I like to stir the pot.
You won't find an original dashboard pad that is not cracked. Don't pass up an otherwise good truck because you believe you will find one.
Rust can be a big problem. Check the rad cradle mounting points. Check the frame. Check the floors and cab corners. Wheel archs will almost certainly be rusting. Panels and patches are available.
#9
In 1982, Ford replaced the 1980/81 grille with the 1982 grille (that has the blue oval) for use as a "service part replacement."
So, because of this, y'all might find a 1982 grille in a 1980/81.
#10
You are describing what my dad wanted when we started his project (Thanks Fuzzface for referencing our build), except you want more power than him. If you look through our build, we are using a late model Mercury Grand Marquis as a donor (Sam car as th CrownVic). We are using almost everything (suspension, motor, and trans) from the donor car we bought with only 65k miles. You could bump up the power with 5.4, v10, a Cobra motor, or even a Coyote. The later model running gear will make it more street-able and probably get decent mileage. This truck will basically be a Mercury disguised as a truck. As far as a Bullnose versus a Bumpside, you cannot go wrong with either. The Bumpside will cost you more to get updated with all of the creature comforts than a Bullnose as they were offered with more from the factory. Either way you go, start a build thread and post a lot of pictures!
#11
A little late to the party but here's some info:
- 1980-81 had weaker frames from the factory for fuel economy
- 1984+ and big block 1983 had a hydraulic clutch on manual transmissions, all others had a manual linkage
- 1984+ besides California models have computerized carburetors or fuel injection. 1983 and earlier will more than likely have simple straight forward carburetors
- 1983+ can have the desirable 8.8 rear end, even in base models
- All half tons have twin i-beam front suspension, f-250 and f-350s have straight axles front and rear
- Some f-100 models (only 1983 and before) have the 3.8 v6 or the 255 v8, don't get either of those.
#12
Hydraulic clutch introduced: 1983 F250/350 6.9L diesel & 7.5L (460) / 1984 F150/350 & Bronco 300 I-6, 302 (except F350) & 351W
ALL F100/150 & F250/350 2WD's have Twin-I-Beam front suspension.
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