Glad I can share my psycosis with someone

My truck came with the 140A, it died around 90k IIRC. It's the one wearing the 270XP now and hitting 47V. I interchange which of our two trucks I'm talking about at pretty much at random, but the truck that's in my sig and usually lives in my driveway is just starting to have FICM issues even with the upgrades.

The second truck is also an 07 (built a month and a day later than mine), this is the one that had the FICM die in the middle of a trip. It came with a 110A, killed the original alt and a 110A replacement, then the THIRD 110A alt was marginal and got tossed for an LN230 when the rebuilt FICM went in. I did 2000 miles to TN and back in it in July and it was starting to show some problems, running 46-47.5V towing at night, had a weird rolling re-start in the middle of the trip. I knew it needed a FICM but then it would perk up and run 48V consistently. Dad took it up to Colorado and it gave out on the first leg of the return trip. He limped it home and we got all the parts from Ed to get it going again. Got the power back to where mine is, it runs like a brand new truck.

 

I've always considered the batteries as buffers between demand and supply. Once fully loaded and everything else is good, not to much to worry about, buffers full to supply the demand. But if the buffers not full, we're hoping the supply can keep up (alternator) to supplement the buffer. Notice i said supplement... as in help the battery supply the power and this is when you see batteries and alternator failing. By this time, when you notice the problem, mostly game over already. The FICM is hurt, batteries and alternator are on the way out.

I really think aggressive replacement is key, first indication of issues is the go point. At that exact time it's a loosing situation and a matter of time before your possibly stranded.

Batteries start, alternator supplies after the start. We always talk about RPM during the start for the alternator pulley... I don't think it matters. Guys with new alternators, small pulleys, old batteries, new batteries... still kill FICMs. I want to believe it has to do with batteries during the start and the hand off to the alternator after it's running. The alternator still has to receive a command to output a charging voltage AND that comes after your running... At least I think it does.
Supply load, recharge batteries.... be ready for the next start-up. WHY I jumped all over the 3 batteries, large alternator, increased cabling and grounds trying to prolong the inevitable. But it may have come too late...

My truck was used when I bought, had a 110amp alt, old batteries and was dipping into the 10.5v range as other's here have seen. The bigger alternator, third battery, cables, grounds added improved overall voltage... I don't see that any longer, but my FICM now runs at 48-47.5v and drops to 47.0v. Been sitting there for some time, but it's dying and may be the real reason mileage is down from 21 to 19mpg and performance is slightly down.

 

Randy and I have had the same thought for a few years now. It’s my belief that most FICM degradation occurs before the engine ever hits 500rpm, before the alternator can contribute. Randy grabbed my three batt comment and went with it like no I’ve ever seen and did a great job implementing it. Installing two batteries that have the capability to release sufficient amperage to minimize voltage drop are also a means to achieve that.

Ford did so with the OE batteries, 750CCA with thicker plates that resulted in heavy weight batteries, more towards batteries that are deep cycle to a degree. They have more depth of plate then the aftermarket 850s we get. The AGM batteries have a lower internal resistance so they can supply more current at the critical starter engagement. The Odyssey Extremes do so by having a deep and wide reservoir. But you can do that to with generic batteries like the Walmart’s by not waiting for them to be so low in capability that voltage is compromised.

It’s important to get the voltage up after start which we do with 140a and higher alternators. Cabling helps for getting the maximum current, most stable voltage, but most of what is done over the years looks pretty.

Ultimately what we are trying to do is protect a weakened design.

Every day for the last three weeks I’ve restarted and working on videos to show my thoughts and an idea, I just can’t sit at a computer 12/7 with my AADD and attention to detail. What takes 10 minutes becomes a day.

 

I could have sworn I saw a reply here that mentioned the FICM relay, but I don't see it now. Should I try replacing the relay? Is there a way to test it? Even if there is a problem with the relay, I guess the damage is done to the FICM. Does a low voltage condition cause excess heat, and that is what does the damage? This morning when I started the truck the FMP was like 38.5V. Not good. By the time I came out to leave for work the EOT was at 172 and the FMP was 48.5V.

Randy, apparently I don't have FLP set up on my SGII, I thought I did. I'll have to set that up. I guess this weekend I'll pull the batteries and the alternator, and not drive the truck until I get this resolved. Sometimes I wish I was one of those guys with no gauges, blissfully unaware of my problems. But, I sure can't afford to start replacing injectors. I wonder if I've done any damage to them already?

 

My batteries are only 2 years old, but I think I'd still like to replace them with the good Motorcraft batteries. The ones i have are Interstate. I think they are 750CCA, but I'd have to look to make sure.

I agree, aggressive replacement. Batteries, cables, alternator, FICM, and relay. Expensive, but not near so much as injectors. My wife will not be happy.

 

I’ve on a two year lease with the Walmart Max. I don’t do a warranty, I just flip them as though I’m leasing them for $8 a month. It cheaper then some other routine maintenance items we do without complaint.

The over the counter Motorcraft are no better then the good aftermarket, you can’t get the assembly line versions over the counter.

 

Walmart batts are ok long as you keep alt working right,i warranty mine out just before time runs out,works pretty good.

 

HEY ED ITS BUBBA AT BIG SMOKE DIESEL CAN YOU SEND ME THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE FICM ON A 03 F-350 6.0

 

Jude:
I would do batts, Alt, and FICM, before continuing to run it. I would also consider cabling upgrades.

Randy:
Perfectly stated - I hope others read this thread even if it's for your post alone...

Bryan:
Thanks again - my worry also is I may have done damage early on, that will eventually catch up. Hopefully I will see it coming and be able to proactively replace the FICM...

Sorry for the bit of a hijack to your thread, Jude, but there is some really good info in here for others down the road to see...

Scott

 

What is the life expectancy on an Odyssey AGM battery or any AGM? I have the Diehard Platinum in my truck, they are about 3 years old now.

 

That's my plan. It's going to be mighty expensive...

 

Well I am hoping to get double what they are warrantied for. But our good friend Mark (bismic) had the same batts as you and I think his 1st one went at 4 years. He may be along to correct me if I'm wrong.

Keep an eye on your voltages is all I can say... I haven't decided yet on my charging routine when the truck sits -- don't know (haven't researched) if I need a special charger for the Extremes. I have a Noco G3500, which has an AGM setting, so I will at least use that until I figure it out...

Scott

 

I bought a charger from Ed that demulsifies? the batteries. I haven't put it on the Ex yet but have it on my boat battery. I need to move the Ex closer to the garage so I can plug it in.

 

Sorry my Four key is hanging up - Mark's 1st one went at four years...

 

Scott, how much weight are you pulling with your truck? I'm trying to figure out what tune I need on the new FICM if I'm going to pull a 5th wheel (+/- 10,000 lbs.).