I went out early this morning and decided to take the truck on a shakedown run and pick up some cleaning supplies. I connected the battery, pushed the knee panel into place and the issue has returned!! The THEFT Light flashes and the odometer reads ------. I removed the ignition cylinder once again just to see but it did not help. Also noticed that the clicking Relay (#301 fuel pump) has returned.

We're going to look for the inertia switch next as it seems to be an issue on these trucks as well. Also going to check for any stretch, pinch or damage to wires at the tilt column as we read that this might also be an issue.

I'm sure you're all nearly as tired of this thread as I am, but if you have any more ideas please let me know... I feel like this right now

I really don't want to take it to the dealer but I'm about at wits end.

 

inertia switch was fine.

Found the cluster test. Got 2 DTC codes: d147 and 262
147- SCP(J1850 Invalid or Missing Data for Vehicle Security
262- Missing SCP Info

Service Manual says to go to Pinpoint test K.
It calls for scan tool- (I presume it's a Ford tool?)
It asks about parts "proving out correctly" (Not exactly sure what that means)

It also says that DTC can be cleared. Not sure how. (scantool?) (I've disconnected the battery overnight and when I have the doors and hood open to limit the battery drain.)

Thoughts?

 

Well, it HAS to be a bad connection somewhere. And since it apparently got "fixed" when you messed with the ignition cylinder, I'd be surprised if it wasn't around there somewhere. I'd be tempted to hotwire the truck with the key in the ignition to see if the issue persists or not. Maybe it's bad connection on the ignition switch or connectors/wires near it. It's hard to give any concrete advise from behind a keyboard without looking at it first hand, other than rough ideas on troubleshooting...

 

Problem with the last "fix" is that this has been a continuing issue. Lots of things "fix" the truck and then it "unfixes" itself.
I have the column open and there's nothing loose, pinched frayed, dirty or disconnected. Without the Ford scan tool I may be stuck. This stupid PATS is killing me.

 

Probably worth nothing, but my TTA had an intermittent no-start condition last year... after [seemingly] endless attempts to duplicate the condition, I finally determined nothing was getting to the solenoid. My consultants all said "ignition switch", but it ended up being a bad wire there in the column near the ignition key cylinder.
Good luck.
Mark

 

I managed to get it running again. This issue is clearly beyond my meager capabilities. I've been in touch with a shop that has Ford contacts.
When it's fixed I'll post back on the repair...

 

Hopefully these guys are good.
FWIW, I would not characterize what you've done so far as falling under "meager capabilities"
... looking forward to a positive report soon!

 

So, I wanted to give an update on the issues..... The truck went to the local FORD dealer about a month ago.
I also purchased an extra key and had them code it to be on the safe side.

Guess what they tell me after a month in their shop? They can't even start the truck!!!!
I asked the tech if he pulled the DTC's. He had no idea what I was talking about. I thought that they used service manuals? Maybe not...

I actually had to go there and tell them what I did to get it started! Then they have the audacity to tell me that they may need to charge me 8 hours of labor to remove the s/c so that they can trace the wires and find the one that is pinched. That ain't happening.

Needless to say, I'm not happy about this situation. Nevertheless, I wanted to give you all an update so that the issue would not go unresolved.

I'll post again when there is some movement.

 

So, today I get a call from the dealership. They tell me that they cannot even get the truck started (apparently if a computer won't hook up and tell them what's wrong they're dead in the water.) What they were angling for was to remove the s/c and manifold to trace all the wires claiming I would need to authorize them to do 8 hours of labor at $125 per hour!!!! OF course I say no way Jose' (at worst it's about a 2hr job with my basic tools)

They tell me that I can come and take the truck and they'll only charge me the $110 diagnostic fee.

Really?!!? I thought a diagnostic fee was for someone to tell me what is wrong and a plan to fix the issue.

WTF guys??? What is going on here? Am I being unreasonable? I don't feel like I am. I'm a little unhappy with this whole situation- new engine, fresh trans, new suspension and the damned thing won't cooperate.

Ideas, thoughts suggestions???

 

That's why you never ever bring it to the stealership. It's quite apparent that they rely way too much on the computer and resort to just scratching their butts when the computer won't do the work for them. Since you've done a lot already, this should've been a couple of hours of a professional mechanic troubleshooting the wiring under the s/c and fixing it, but of course they need to milk some money out of you.

 

Yeah, I figured. I already went back to the shop who did the install and explained the situation. They are going to tow it back to their shop after the holiday and try to figure it out. They're leaning toward cluster or PCM issues...

I'm neck deep into this truck and need to get this issue wrapped up but I don't know how much more I can spend before I just give up.
On one hand I feel that this has been a good truck, everything is new and works like it's supposed to (when it's running LOL)
On the other hand I've dumped a ton of coin into the truck, I continue to have this irrational fear that it's just a matter of time before there is another issue.

I have way more into it than it's worth. I've actually been tempted to part it out just to try and recoup some of my money.

I'm just sick about this whole situation...

 

Should never say never, but I think it's more likely a wiring problem from the way it has been described here, and not a PCM or cluster problem. If the stealership wasn't able to communicate with PCM, the first thing to check would be if the PCM is receiving power. It's difficult to deal with these problems when you can't do it yourself, and you have to rely on shops to do the work, it gets expensive fast. And it's often hard to know which shop knows their stuff, as there's a lot who doesn't have a clue.

 

I agree. I've called a few shops that were supposed to be reputable. As soon as they hear that the theft light is flashing, they refer me to the dealership.
The dealership claims the performance items are in the way and not standard (I think that they forgot about the Harley truck and the Lightning)- Anyway, I guess I'm stuck taking it back to the place that installed the engine. Maybe next year it'll be fixed!

 

Well, the truck is finally running! I just got it back from the shop. They had it for the past 2 weeks.
They ended up pulling an old Viper alarm system that I had not been using and an old KB piggyback chip, also replaced the cluster and reprogrammed it.

So far, so good.

I think I'm done with this truck. It's going to be put up for sale!