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2000 F-350 7.3L SD History Thread

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  #166  
Old 05-02-2018, 07:57 AM
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Jerry, I have a line on turbo and up-pipes, so I am good there. If you could see about the Spyder (intake manifold) in front of the turbo on either truck, the driver's side manifold, and the plenums when you go this weekend, that would be greatly appreciated. I can't believe you have such a good yard that close to you. I may actually be able to convert my E99 on the cheap if this all works out.
 
  #167  
Old 05-02-2018, 01:12 PM
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BBslider-

Ok I think I understand what you are interested in. Admittedly, y'all in the truck world use slightly different terminology than I'm accustomed to, so based on your initial post I was under the impression that you were interested in drive side stuff. Ergo components from the exhaust manifolds up to but not including the turbo. However you appear to be interested in the driver's side exhaust manifold only WRT drive side stuff. Then on the driven side you are interested in the intake plenums and what y'all call the spider, which is the plenum/collector just downstream of the compressor.

Assuming that I understand you correctly, to speak openly I don't recall seeing much on these trucks downstream of the turbo. I am a bit fuzzy thereof, but that's just what leaps out when I think about it. And of course it'll have been at least a week by the time I return so I'll need to see what's available. I'm guessing that the intake plenums are still present on the 2001, but I suspect not on the 2000.

Anyway, I'll have to see. I'm assuming that if only the manifold is still around you'll want to pass on the lot. However you can let me know. If you send me a PM with your cell I can text you in real time when I'm out there. Just offerin' that, no prob either way.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
  #168  
Old 05-03-2018, 11:33 PM
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BBslider- I called Kat today. Everything downstream of the turbos on those two trucks has already been claimed. Sorry I couldn't be of further help. Good luck with the upgrade.

So the interior is re-installed on the 99:




So the list is now:

1) Prep the bed and apply the bedliner
2) Re-install the interior, to include determining if I need the connector for the overhead display (I *do* need that connector)
3) Figure out why the friggin pressure/boost gauge isn't working
4) Once #3 is complete, re-install the driver's A-pillar trim and gauge cluster panel
5) Test drive and sell.

I'm down to that friggin pressure/boost gauge. I think I'll begin working on the ad tonight; that gauge shouldn't take too much to correct I wouldn't think.

So. Now to the nitty-gritty. Does anyone have any idea what the going price for something like is these days? I've seen prices all over the map really. I've been watching CL for about 2 months straight, with the notion being to "get a feel" for pricing. Of course, asking price is often not what someone actually sold it for, certainly. However you do need a place to start. Like with any vehicle, a lot seems to ride on condition. This truck is doing well. There are a couple of things that could be corrected; the passenger side rear door switch won't roll the window up or down and no it's not the switch. You can however roll that window down from the driver's door control panel, so there is a way to do that. You know, minor things like that. The engine seems to run well and it starts easily, no issues. So I dunno. Still working on that...

Anyway thanks,
Jerry
 
  #169  
Old 05-04-2018, 07:41 AM
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Jerry, thanks a bunch for asking. If anymore of those come in, just let me know...2000-2003. All I need are the plenums and spyder (intake manifold downstream like you said). I was thinking I need the drive side exhaust manifold to use the newer style up-pipes, but I haven't determined that yet.

Anyways, truck looks great. I did send you a PM. WRT to the asking price,what is the mileage? I am seeing these trucks of this generation go from $9k-12k depending....you might get a little more if the mileage is on the lower side or if the rust is zero, which I am guessing it is. keep us posted!
 
  #170  
Old 05-06-2018, 07:15 PM
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Ok thank you for the feedback. I was in that basic range, so...

Well the manifold pressure gauge is working:


So it's time to put it on the market. I'll finish the CL ad tonight and publish it. I'll run an ad on the forums too. Wish me luck with the CL crazies!

Thanks,
Jerry
 
  #171  
Old 05-06-2018, 11:16 PM
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And for extra credit, the tailgate on this truck was difficult to open/close. I looked into it and apparently this is a common problem with these plastic handles as our trucks age. Often the plastic components will break outright. Still, I didn't want to put it on the market it without at least attempting to repair it first. Therefore after I had buttoned everything up, I decided to pop-open the tailgate panels to have a look. As it turns out, the plastic panel is a Ford factory part:



This truck was painted black at the factory, if the label can be believed. However they must have completed that paint job with the metal sub-panel already mounted because behind that panel it was white:



All the trivia stuff aside, in this case the plastic components weren't broken. There was simply too much play in the actuation mechanism between the exterior handle (plastic) and the inner rotator. Fortunately the rods that the rotator moves to open the latches on each side are threaded and adjustable. Therefore if you encounter this issue and don't see any broken stuff, simply open these white plastic retainers, lift the rod from its slot, pull it inward, reinsert into the slot and then close the retainer. This simple procedure was all I needed to complete in order for the tailgate to function like new again.


Anyway thanks,
Jerry
 
  #172  
Old 05-07-2018, 01:02 PM
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Great tip on the tailgate. Tried to rep you for that one too, but have to spread them around more first.

Heck, now that you've got that 99 all fixed up, I should trade in my 2000 for it. But then I'd probably owe you too much money. Your labor isn't cheap. I can see the top of his head and back while he's holding up that tail gate for you!
 
  #173  
Old 05-07-2018, 03:33 PM
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Thanks. Yeah, David was "helping" Daddy yesterday. And boy you are correct ... and how. His rates are *not* cheap!

So. Now that the 1999 is prepped for sale, I'm quite excited to be turning my attention back to my truck. My 2000 I should say, as they are both my trucks at present.

The very first thing I want to address is that damn fuel bowl. Forgive me Stewart_H and other mods for the swear word in the previous sentence. That said, it just hacks me off that the previous owner would do something so ***-ee-nine as to disable that sensor by cutting it off like he did. Why couldn't you just repair the thing properly??!?!?! What an a-hole. Ok I'll stop right there. After work I plan to remove it to get a better look at the crap I inherited (and lamely didn't even know about, which again, was part of the reason I went down this road, so I suppose it's not *all* bad). I'll post pictures then.

However this afternoon I purchased the fuel bowl rebuild components, so I thought I'd update the thread with the details for those who might want to do this in the future.

Fuel bowl rebuild kit (o-rings) from dieselorings (#7-003 Fuel Bowl Reseal Kit 1999-2003): $28.37

Fuel filter drain valve from Amazon (OEM Fuel Drain Valve): $38.78
Link to Amazon Fuel Drain Valve Link to Amazon Fuel Drain Valve

Thanks,
Jerry

EDIT: Note that the drain valve on all 3 of the bowls that I have appear to work. That said, as long as I am rebuilding, I might as well go whole-hog WRT the one that I actually reinstall in my 2000...
 
  #174  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:24 AM
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Removed the disaster of a fuel filter housing from the 2000 tonight. So the three bowls, from L to R:

From the 2000 Gold dually, then from the 2001 F350 SRW then from my 2000. I laid out the rings from the supply and return lines; they are in need of replacement, to say the least. So it's good timing...

And here you can see the heater/H2O sensor cut wiring. First in the engine bay and then at the fuel bowl:



I'm glad that I decided to tackle this job first. It is in dire need of attention...

Anyway thanks,
Jerry
 
  #175  
Old 05-08-2018, 02:34 AM
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I saw the sale ad for the '99, if I hadn't already found my '96 and had the space, I'd snag it up, as your description of all manual everything (4x4 included) really does make maintenance much easier. Good luck with the sale!

You certainly weren't kidding about the fuel bowl being a disaster.
 
  #176  
Old 05-08-2018, 08:34 AM
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Mods Edit: It's against FTE Guidelines to advertise in the tech forums, so please guys, don't ask other users to post a link to their CL advert. It can get them in trouble.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/site-guidelines/

End of PSA....thanks for your time.
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; 05-08-2018 at 02:26 PM.
  #177  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:31 PM
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Azryael- Thank you for the interest in my 99 just the same. 'Preciate it. Yup, yet another load of horseapples the previous owner(s) left me, but don't get me started.

I decided that since the previous owner (or whomever) was such a twit as to do this cut-the-wiring-to-the-fuel-bowl business, there must have been a reason. Who knows what; not sure I even wanna know. Regardless, if I am truly gonna go whole-hog WRT this fuel bowl thing, I might as well replace the heating element while I'm at it. After all, the existing one could have been the reason that the wires were snipped in the first place. With that in mind, I ordered a new 99-03 7.3L fuel heating element from RiffRaff today. They also have a new-ish product that enables you to remove both the fuel and oil caps with only a socket. So what the heck, I got one of those too. As always, in keeping with the format I established early on, here are the particulars just in case you were wondering:

New OEM 99-03 Fuel Heater Element and RiffRaff's fuel and oil cap removal tool: $87.69 (with shipping)

Have more to discuss, but it will have to wait until later. Some of it is more "Holy hell?!?!?!? What the heck is that and why didn't your lame a$$ see it before now?!" so...
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; 05-08-2018 at 02:27 PM.
  #178  
Old 05-08-2018, 12:46 PM
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Oh, I know about horseapples... my '84 500SE is still not 100% after being "Federalized" by some "professionals" back in '85. The wiring is a complete mess, but at least it runs and drives well enough.

Can't wait to hear more details!
 
  #179  
Old 05-08-2018, 11:01 PM
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Stewart_H and/or other moderators - I suppose it was clear, but just in case there was any fuzziness about it ... I wasn't trying to advertise my CL listing for the 99. Heck I have a listing for it in the FTE marketplace, why would I need to do that? Anyway, I was just answering a question. That's it.

Ok so I'd like to open something up for discussion. Ultimately is seems to me that the following resolves to being what I would loosely term "a diesel thing". I say that because I don't recall ever seeing anything like this on any of my cars or trucks (which have all been gas-powered vehicles to be clear, this is my first foray into diesel ownership). And having said that, I will admit that I am confident in my assessment by only some percentage, which is less than 100. I mean, it seems relatively straightforward, but ... enough. The question is: have you ever noticed/seen/are you aware of a configuration in which a heat exchanger is placed between the coolant and fuel lines? Specifically between the heater hose that runs from the water pump to the heater core and the fuel return line off of the fuel filter housing? My guess is that the purpose of such a thingamabopper is to further cool the coolant such that when it is sent to the heater core, it isn't as hot and thus the A/C can provide cooler air. "Uuuhhhhh...really? If that's what it does, it must be a diesel thing." Or so the thought goes. I could be way off in the weeds on this one...

Where does this question originate? Well, I see the following on the 1999. I don't see it on my 2000:


"Why is that?" I ask myself. I dunno. Was this a Lariat-type upgrade? Was it something a previous owner modd'ed themselves? My SWAG is the latter, BTW.

Curiously, while my 2000 doesn't have this little contraption, one of the friggin hacks that the previous owner did that has irked me to no end is that he cut this same heater hose and installed a ball valve, thusly:

My guess has always been that he wanted to prevent the coolant from getting to the cabin so that it (the cabin) could be cooler. Perhaps because his A/C compressor wasn't working to full capacity.

Ok so ... where am I going wrong with this one? Is that the purpose and function of the little device I see on the 1999?

Next, and in the interest of continuing to "keep it real" in this thread...I must 'fess up to discovering something rather alarming after I removed the fuel filter housing last night. Someone had stuffed a whole raft of ... I dunno ... crap down into the valley. It appeared to be remnants of the under-hood insulation. Perhaps a bird's nest too. I dunno, just a bunch of crap:


And what did I see when I removed all of this BS ... yup, oil in the valley. So. I have a leak somewhere. I'm guessing that it might be the turbo, the pedestal, the EBP or the HPOP lines. Lesser probability that it is the HPOP itself or the heads, but possible. How far off base am I on this one?

Mind you, what I find embarrassing is that I've been driving around like this for 4 years! Holy reveling-in-obliviousness batman! I mean, just how bad does this have to get? I go back to two professional diesel techs who both told me that they didn't see any issues...

Ok you have heard that saga already, so enough. What this has done is thrust an idea that I was toying around with but successfully keeping at arm's reach into "we're gonna do that." But more on that later.

I need a hammock.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
  #180  
Old 05-09-2018, 12:56 AM
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I forgot to mention this earlier. My neighbor stopped by to see why I had two duallys on my property. So I gave him the what/why and how. He offered to buy the truck on the spot. Ostensibly then, the 1999 is sold. However he is a talker, so until I have check-in-hand, it's still for sale. If ya know what I mean. If the sale goes through as agreed upon, I will kinda break even or be under water by a couple hundred. I can live with such a result; heck you can't buy an interior for that much/little buckage, so it's a thumbs up from me. I'll keep you informed.

Anyway thanks,
Jerry
 


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