302 Exhaust Manifold Preheat Intake Air Shroud
#16
odd, I've never had any cold weather driveability issues with carbed vehicles in NJ winters... Common winter temps are lows a bit below freezing and highs a bit above freezing and it's always wet here, either rain or humid. I've always had either open element air cleaners on cars or closed factory style air cleaners on trucks, but never with any hot air stove intact (all long gone to rust).
Odd that you should have such problems in relatively mild VA winters. I wonder if there's a Goldilocks zone of fairly warm temperatures for driveability issues.
Odd that you should have such problems in relatively mild VA winters. I wonder if there's a Goldilocks zone of fairly warm temperatures for driveability issues.
Weather in VA is unpredictable; today afternoon temps in 70's two weeks ago morning temps in single digits. By doing this stove I want a faster warm up besides my emission system is fully intact. All that was left of the original stove was two rusted washer looking 5/8" dia. pieces of tin under the bolt heads. I'll also have the snorkel plumbed to the front of the radiator support via flex hose (the original cold air intake )
I'm in Richmond - Franklin2 what neck of the woods do you reside?
#17
In the valley in New Market. The carbs on these engines will build frost inside very quickly on a cold rainy day. I have had it so bad that the gas pedal sticks and I have to stomp the pedal to bring the engine speed back down.
Another symptom. you set the choke and start the engine, and everything is fine for the first few minutes. Then it acts like the choke is sticking on, it starts running rough and blowing black smoke. But you check the choke and it is opening. You drive with one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running, it tries to stall at every stop sign/light. You finally get were you are going, turn it off, go in the store for 15 minutes, come out and it starts right up and runs fine after that.
That is the carb building up ice inside and messing up the fuel delivery. After you get were you are going and it sits there a little bit, the heat from the engine makes it's way up and warms up the carb and melts the ice, and after that it's usually warm enough not to form ice.
That hot air from the exhaust manifold stove gets rid of this problem.
Another symptom. you set the choke and start the engine, and everything is fine for the first few minutes. Then it acts like the choke is sticking on, it starts running rough and blowing black smoke. But you check the choke and it is opening. You drive with one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running, it tries to stall at every stop sign/light. You finally get were you are going, turn it off, go in the store for 15 minutes, come out and it starts right up and runs fine after that.
That is the carb building up ice inside and messing up the fuel delivery. After you get were you are going and it sits there a little bit, the heat from the engine makes it's way up and warms up the carb and melts the ice, and after that it's usually warm enough not to form ice.
That hot air from the exhaust manifold stove gets rid of this problem.
#18
It must be the smog carbs that are problematic. NJ weather is more or less the same. 60s and sunny today now warm and raining. Was damn cold a week or two ago, gonna be below freezing this weekend then back to 70s... And fairly wet the whole time.
I've always run Autolite 2100/4100 or Holley 4160/4150 carbs. Never run any smog era carbs for any length of time. I bet it's the smog era stuff that's real finicky and problematic. So many people here complain of carb problems from sitting, using ti every day, or farting the wrong direction. The 4160 on the 460 in my Galaxie fired up and runs great after sitting for 5 years only running a few times in 10 years. Granted it's not fire up and drive immediately but I attribute that to 10 year old gas. The 750 CFM 4150 on my 460 truck runs fine and typically sits 6-9 months between uses. I use this truck when there's appreciable snow, occasional mudding, and when it's too cold for the diesel truck (negative temps).
I've always run Autolite 2100/4100 or Holley 4160/4150 carbs. Never run any smog era carbs for any length of time. I bet it's the smog era stuff that's real finicky and problematic. So many people here complain of carb problems from sitting, using ti every day, or farting the wrong direction. The 4160 on the 460 in my Galaxie fired up and runs great after sitting for 5 years only running a few times in 10 years. Granted it's not fire up and drive immediately but I attribute that to 10 year old gas. The 750 CFM 4150 on my 460 truck runs fine and typically sits 6-9 months between uses. I use this truck when there's appreciable snow, occasional mudding, and when it's too cold for the diesel truck (negative temps).
#19
1980 Granada/Monarch 302 / 1980/82 Mustang/Cougar 255 / 1980/82 Thunderbird/Cougar 302 / 1982 Mustang/Cougar & Continental 4 door Sedan 302.
1980/83 F100 255/302 / 1980/89 F150/250, Bronco & Econoline 302 / 1981/89 F150/350, Bronco & Econoline 351W
NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.
RPN PARTS in Erie PA has 2 = 888-864-9305.
#21
Resto, that is a fine job you did on that heat exchanger.
$40 is not a bad price thing is it will not work on my motor........300 six with EFI manifolds and stock carb/filter assy. as the EFI manifolds where never made to have the heat exchanger.
One thing I found with my filter assy. when restoring it was the heat/fresh air valve did not move when testing the vacuum side by hand. My concern is the valve is N.O. for heat and I want it on fresh air when it heats up so I will check it when I have it running.
Dave ----
$40 is not a bad price thing is it will not work on my motor........300 six with EFI manifolds and stock carb/filter assy. as the EFI manifolds where never made to have the heat exchanger.
One thing I found with my filter assy. when restoring it was the heat/fresh air valve did not move when testing the vacuum side by hand. My concern is the valve is N.O. for heat and I want it on fresh air when it heats up so I will check it when I have it running.
Dave ----
#22
I have put these things on several different vehicles in several different exhaust configurations. If the carb starts icing, you will get desperate. The simplest setup I have used so far is a flexible aluminum hose like he used above, and take snips and split the end of it about 8 inches and spread it open and over the exhaust pipe. Then a piece of wire to hold it on. It worked fine, you could feel the pipe getting hot.
Doing that, it will work on about anything.
Doing that, it will work on about anything.
#24
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