When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Did my passenger side UVCH and glow plugs Saturday, then started on drivers side when I noticed two of the oil deflector shields and bolts were completely detached and laying next to the rocker arms. Counted my lucky stars.
Now I have doubts about the passenger side oil deflector shield bolts, and have to pull the cover back off to check.
I have the 13mm short form universal socket that everyone recommended and it's really the only thing I could get on a some of the valve cover bolts. The rear most drivers side was especially hard to get to for some reason. I fidgeted with that one for 10 minutes before finally getting traction.
Is there a "best technique" for getting a socket on those rear most valve cover bolts that we can't see with our eyes? Is coming in from the bottom or maybe the wheel well any better?
The fee times i removed mine, i didn't have an issue with the ds side covers but did the first v time vwith ps. Came vup from bottom to get to that one bolt. Now, figured out how to finesse them all...next time going in, im replacing with allen bolts..
I have the 13mm short form universal socket that everyone recommended and it's really the only thing I could get on a some of the valve cover bolts. The rear most drivers side was especially hard to get to for some reason. I fidgeted with that one for 10 minutes before finally getting traction.
Is there a "best technique" for getting a socket on those rear most valve cover bolts that we can't see with our eyes? Is coming in from the bottom or maybe the wheel well any better?
1/4" drive ratchet with standard or deep socket depending on the location. From the top reaching back and feeling for it. The ratchet I use is short no longer than my hand.
Passenger side lower bolts I do through the wheelwell.
A list of things to check while under the VC's would be nice if anyone knows what all should be checked. For bolts like VC bolts I just use my standard German torque...gutentite. But I've been using it for a long time and don't strip bolts out.
The second link also lists the valve cover torque as 97 INCH pounds
Engine can be cold to torque the injector hold down bolts. Then you reconnect the 42 pin, leave the valve covers and ic piping off and let it idle for 30-40 minutes to get the engine up to operating temp, then retorque injectors. That's what is termed a hot torque on here.
Injector hold down spec is 120 INCH pounds, but most go 130, engine runs much quieter if you do
...next time going in, im replacing with allen bolts....
Scotttahoe tried that, and profoundly regretted it the next time he went in. It was far easier to "target" a bolt with a 13mm flex socket than it was to nail that dink of an Allen hole with the correct orientation. He and I spent more time extracting the Allen bolts than we did for the entire removal and installation of the normal bolts on Stinky's valve covers.
As for the rear bolts on the valve covers (torque values aside), face the windshield and use your arm nearest the engine to position the socket. Use your other hand to use the tool at the end of a stupid-long extension. I have about 18" of extensions, a cordless drill, and a universal joint. I get those bolts out in less than 10 seconds.
As for the rear bolts on the valve covers (torque values aside), face the windshield and use your arm nearest the engine to position the socket. Use your other hand to use the tool at the end of a stupid-long extension.
Do you have two universals in your setup above?
How I approached the driver side was to get a thick comforter (I have an old one I keep in my shop) and lay stomach down on top of the engine. It helps to have a concrete block or something to stand on to help yourself up.
I used my left hand, snaking under the master cylinder & behind the wire looms, to reach the back of the valve cover and hold the socket in place. Used right hand to loosen/tighten. Hard to get a usable torque measurement with universal joints in the mix.
For the very back bolts (one on each head), I use a 13mm deep with a universal - the same one I use on the 13mm stud bolts. With the deep and universal, it gets up and clear of the valve cover - then it's just some long extensions to get to the cordless impact driver in my other hand. I have a Milwaukee Fuel 18V impact driver, which has the ability to set the torque with control buttons. I set the torque that has never come loose (without bending stuff), and pull the trigger. I used to use a Milwaukee drill (pre-Fuel) with torque setting on the head, so that will work as well.
I've tightened the valve covers by hand and by driver a gajillion times, and I've never had one of those come loose. Now as far as the injector hold-down bolts....
I've tightened the valve covers by hand and by driver a gajillion times, and I've never had one of those come loose. Now as far as the injector hold-down bolts....
Is blue loctite a good bet for the hold down bolts? I'm thinking I should pull my drivers valve cover back off and check them. Haven't connected the CAC or airbox hoses up yet.
Here are the bolts that need to be checked/torqued when the engine is hot:
The items circled in red are the rocker arm pedestal bolts (20 lb-ft). The bolt circled in blue is your injector hold down bolt (120 lb-in). This picture just happens to be of the #4 with the circles on it.
02-20-2018, 08:05 AM
