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Did you follow the instructions in the link i posted for you earlier? This will make sure you are getting power to the module and it is functioning as it should with the distributor.
So no baseball tourneys this weekend....I was able to work on the old truck...I have power going to the Dizzy through TFI Module & within inside the Distributor , I used the test light to check everything inside the dizzy I even touched the very top of the Distributor shaft without the Rotor Bugg on it and it lit up the test light BRIGHT ...I have power at the coil...So I put the rotor on and attached my led test light to the tab of the rotor and no Light , I even turned it over and No light ...So is the Rotor Bugg bad ?... Now my Starter relay is hanging up and when I turn the key on it turns the engine over even after turning ignition off...I have to go out there and hit the Starter relay with screwdriver to stop...I swear if its not one this its another ....My patients starting to run thin ...But I shall not be defeated...Feel free to chime in if you have any Ideas ...Thanks in Advance
Did you follow the instructions in the link i posted for you earlier? This will make sure you are getting power to the module and it is functioning as it should with the distributor.
If you fail the test, go buy a new distributor. They are not hard to install, just a little bit aggravating.
I had the EXACT same experience as you are having and wasted 2 weeks hunting it down.
Yes sir I followed the instructions everything tested fine ...I have power up through the Dizzy all the way up to the Rotor Bugg...Then nothing past that
So no baseball tourneys this weekend....I was able to work on the old truck...I have power going to the Dizzy through TFI Module & within inside the Distributor , I used the test light to check everything inside the dizzy I even touched the very top of the Distributor shaft without the Rotor Bugg on it and it lit up the test light BRIGHT ...I have power at the coil...So I put the rotor on and attached my led test light to the tab of the rotor and no Light , I even turned it over and No light ...So is the Rotor Bugg bad ?... Now my Starter relay is hanging up and when I turn the key on it turns the engine over even after turning ignition off...I have to go out there and hit the Starter relay with screwdriver to stop...I swear if its not one this its another ....My patients starting to run thin ...But I shall not be defeated...Feel free to chime in if you have any Ideas ...Thanks in Advance
The rotor could be bad?
If you take the coil wire out of the dist. cap and hold it just off the block and crank it over do you have spark?
If so replace the rotor and see if you get spark at the plugs.
Dave ----
Then I don't under stand what you said of the test light to the "rotor bug"?
I would re-run the test that lighting posted (I have not read over it) just to make sure you did not miss something.
As I said it can only be a few things, pick up coil not sending signal, the IGN box or no power to make them work.
BTW the post of the blower motor was to make sure the IGN switch was not out of adjustment, did you check that?
Dave ----
Yes sir I followed the instructions everything tested fine ...I have power up through the Dizzy all the way up to the Rotor Bugg...Then nothing past that
Just to confirm, you followed test 4 as well. The PIP sensor referenced below is the Hall sensor I am talking about. To do this test, you will need to strip back a little of your insulation on wire number 1.
TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal
...Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (PIP) signal is being received by the ignition control module (ICM).
The PIP signal is just Ford's name for the crankshaft position sensor signal. Now, in case you're wondering... the PIP sensor is located inside the distributor.
If the ignition module does not receive the PIP signal (because the PIP sensor is BAD), then it won't activate the ignition coil. But, if the ignition module is getting the PIP signal and it does not create the switching signal for the ignition coil, then the ignition module is BAD.
1. With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the ignition control module connector.
2. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire.
3 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal.
4. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked?
The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engineIf you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You'll need to replace the PIP sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle.
As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor is just a crankshaft position sensor located inside the distributor. This is the sensor that tells the ignition control module (ICM) when to start activating the ignition coil to start sparking away. So, if this PIP module is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the ignition control module will not function.
You can pick up the led at radioshack. See the link below.
First off I want to apologize to everyone for wasting your time ...I was doing the test wrong ...I checked everything with my meter and I have No power @ any of the 6 wire connections...Replaced the Starter solenoid ,Now my ignition switch is messing up I have to set there and wiggle it back and forth until it engages the starter to turn the motor over...So any ideas what's my next step to restoring power to this circuit ? ...I tell you one thing I have learned a lot from all of you and this forum ,going from not knowing anything about Fords to learning something new everyday ...Thanks In Advance !
Just to confirm, you followed test 4 as well. The PIP sensor referenced below is the Hall sensor I am talking about. To do this test, you will need to strip back a little of your insulation on wire number 1.
TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal
...Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (PIP) signal is being received by the ignition control module (ICM).
The PIP signal is just Ford's name for the crankshaft position sensor signal. Now, in case you're wondering... the PIP sensor is located inside the distributor.
If the ignition module does not receive the PIP signal (because the PIP sensor is BAD), then it won't activate the ignition coil. But, if the ignition module is getting the PIP signal and it does not create the switching signal for the ignition coil, then the ignition module is BAD.
1. With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the ignition control module connector.
2. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire.
3 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal.
4. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked?
The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engineIf you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You'll need to replace the PIP sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle.
As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor is just a crankshaft position sensor located inside the distributor. This is the sensor that tells the ignition control module (ICM) when to start activating the ignition coil to start sparking away. So, if this PIP module is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the ignition control module will not function.
You can pick up the led at radioshack. See the link below.
03-17-2018, 06:18 AM
