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What is normal brake wear?

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What is normal brake wear?

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  #16  
Old 02-12-2018, 06:00 PM
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My 2015 needed front brakes around 60,000 miles. Then at 80,000 I needed to replace Rotors and a Caliper because a slide pin froze up.
 
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2018, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnD333 View Post
There are a lot of options on th tow setting. Gain is obvious and there are simple steps to set that properly, but you need to set "effort" correctly and set "electric" versus "electric over hydraulic" too. too. And as others have said, adjust trailer brakes - a big impact.

I have 60k miles on 2015 dually. 20k empty mostly empty 8-hour highway driving. 20k with 8k bumper pull with equalizer hitch and 8-hour highway driving. 20k with 16k 5 5er at max gcwr. That was more like 5 hours on highway.

I just pulled all wheel to grease pins. Pads hardly worn at all.
You mention effort, electric and electric over hydraulic. IS this a selectible feature that I don't know about on my truck or is this just setting the electric greater than hydraulic effort?
 
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2018, 06:52 PM
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I've heard ceramic pads are for low dust as well. I used semi metallic on my last truck and they grabbed great but also eat the rotor a bit more than the OEM pads did.

Can anyone tell me what compound Ford puts on the 11-16 Super Duties?
 
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2018, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
Hey, I eluded nothing. I _might_ have alluded about normal wear patterns.
That's what happens when you talk type and don't proof read EVERY word
 
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:37 PM
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3 settings mentioned. All different. Sounds like you need to look up effort. I think trailer needs to be hooked up to see and change it.
Originally Posted by ImSoAmish View Post
You mention effort, electric and electric over hydraulic. IS this a selectible feature that I don't know about on my truck or is this just setting the electric greater than hydraulic effort?
 
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2018, 08:54 AM
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Well, my truck is at the Dealer for worn ball joint replacement and they called to say my front disk brake pads are down to 3mm. Of course, my first reaction is this cannot be because I only have 35,000 miles on my truck. However, I know that my 16,000 pound camper doesn't stop worth a flip.

The dealer wants $250.00 to replace the pads and turn the disks. First of all, this sounds high to me. What do y'all think? I can replace pads, but what kind of pads does Ford use? What's a good price for turning disks?
 
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2018, 09:10 AM
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It is a dealer, I would pay the $250 out of convenience but that's me.

Bruce
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:12 AM
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For $250 I can buy new rotors and pads. I do my own brakes so the labor is "free". I don't have time to find someone that knows how to turn discs properly, nor to wait around while they do it. So I always replace discs. If you've run those OEM discs that hard they may be warped which means a lot of heat. I would be reluctant to turn discs in that case. But that's me.

If you don't have any shake in the steering wheel then the discs (probably?) aren't warped. You could get away with just putting on new pads. But it depends on how the discs look.

What are you going to do about the trailer brakes?
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:33 PM
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I don't like turning rotors that are pulling quite a bit of weight. I'd prefer to replace them.
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD View Post
For $250 I can buy new rotors and pads. I do my own brakes so the labor is "free". I don't have time to find someone that knows how to turn discs properly, nor to wait around while they do it. So I always replace discs. If you've run those OEM discs that hard they may be warped which means a lot of heat. I would be reluctant to turn discs in that case. But that's me.

If you don't have any shake in the steering wheel then the discs (probably?) aren't warped. You could get away with just putting on new pads. But it depends on how the discs look.

What are you going to do about the trailer brakes?

I had replaced my trailer brakes and they still don't stop very well. I wonder if there is a way I can use Forscan to monitor voltage to the brakes. I have the Ford built in controller cranked up to max. If I can figure out that the controller is working right, I would guess it's time for electric over hydraulic disk brakes on my trailer.
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by golfmedik View Post
I don't like turning rotors that are pulling quite a bit of weight. I'd prefer to replace them.
Monty, have you bought rotors for your Ford dually? If so, where? I would imagine the Motorcraft rotors would be expensive and how do you know if aftermarket rotors are good?
 
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe/GA View Post
I had replaced my trailer brakes and they still don't stop very well. I wonder if there is a way I can use Forscan to monitor voltage to the brakes. I have the Ford built in controller cranked up to max. If I can figure out that the controller is working right, I would guess it's time for electric over hydraulic disk brakes on my trailer.
What type of brakes does it have? You give little info. If drum did you have them turned? If electric did you replace the magnets? If you did the above it would take a number of stops to reseat and burnish everything in. New brakes will sometimes be worse than the old till seated. If drum, may need re-adjusted after seating.
 
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  #28  
Old 06-08-2018, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj View Post

What type of brakes does it have? You give little info. If drum did you have them turned? If electric did you replace the magnets? If you did the above it would take a number of stops to reseat and burnish everything in. New brakes will sometimes be worse than the old till seated. If drum, may need re-adjusted after seating.
The brakes were factory replacement Dexter brakes with backing plate and magnets. The drums were in nice shape, so I didn't replace them. Tried to seat them by repeated stops, but never could get any serious stopping power. I'm really beginning to wonder about the Ford Brake controller. Would love to be able to monitor voltage as brakes are applied.
 
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  #29  
Old 06-09-2018, 06:10 PM
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My front pads were down to 4/32 at 33k. I've towed about exactly one third of the trucks life. I just installed new pads and mic'd rotors which had more than enough to go one more set of pads. Rears have a bit left, but will probably need done this year. Brakes on both trailers work but camper is cranked to 10. I also generally drive fast and push the truck on back roads. I'm not easy on brakes in anything.
 
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  #30  
Old 06-09-2018, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe/GA View Post
The brakes were factory replacement Dexter brakes with backing plate and magnets. The drums were in nice shape, so I didn't replace them. Tried to seat them by repeated stops, but never could get any serious stopping power. I'm really beginning to wonder about the Ford Brake controller. Would love to be able to monitor voltage as brakes are applied.
If the old drums were not machined to remove any glazing...the new shoes might not of seated...
 
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