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No problem at all, Sous. Until Y2K wrote the history of the hood insulation, I'd never heard that there were differences between years. Always good to learn something new!
I agree, just don't like to point people in the wrong direction. I am glad this turned out to be a "positive" (see what I did there...) experience for everyone.
Originally Posted by Scoob5555
I rotated the vertical extension toward the passenger side so it's at about a 130 degree angle. The fuse plate is still pointed to the front. Might be able to go a little more, but I think it's OK now - no contact with the insulation. Can't get a pic tonight due to severe thunderstorms rolling through now.
That is a great idea! This method should be adopted if there are problems with the upright or the rear of the case methods.
This is why the FTE is great. One idea improved and then improved upon again.
We just had a tornado warning for our area in north GA. Passing over us now. Stay safe out there!
Thanks for serving...I did 30 years myself, and miss the job & people still! I'm in awe of your electrical prowess! I can take out, rebuild and install the motor, front ends, bearings, brakes etc...but when it comes to "sparky"...I know enough to be dangerous. My brother lives near Dobbins AFB...you near that? Perhaps one day we can get together and swap stories! Right this minute, my Autometer voltmeter is pegged all the way around and no longer registers...I need to give Autometer a call for advice. GREAT THREAD!
Thanks for serving...I did 30 years myself, and miss the job & people still! I'm in awe of your electrical prowess! I can take out, rebuild and install the motor, front ends, bearings, brakes etc...but when it comes to "sparky"...I know enough to be dangerous. My brother lives near Dobbins AFB...you near that? Perhaps one day we can get together and swap stories! Right this minute, my Autometer voltmeter is pegged all the way around and no longer registers...I need to give Autometer a call for advice. GREAT THREAD!
AIM HIGH!
Thank you for your service as well!
I don't miss what the job turned into toward the end of my career, but I am very grateful for where it led me to and would not change a thing. I stay in touch with some of the guys I was deployed with, but mostly that is a life that allowed me to get to where I am now. We feel very fortunate to have the life we have and know tomorrow is not guaranteed.
After seeing Iraq, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia twice and a couple dozen other countries, we love our home more than we can ever express.
We are just up I-85 from Dobbins near Lake Hartwell. If you are in this neck of the woods, give me a shout.
Just got my new alternator yesterday and was test fitting it with the B+ extension. It looks like the red B+ guard on alt needs to be removed for the B+ extension to bolt on.
Can you remove this guard by just removing the nut on alt or is some other modification needing to be done to get the B+ extension to fit properly?
@Hootr I don't remember for sure, but I believe I used a Dremel to trim down the protruding part of the B+ guard in order to make it flush all the way around. You might be able to remove the guard entirely by removing the nut, but I am not sure. There does appear to be enough stand off space between the extension mounting washer and the case of the alternator.
If I were doing it all over again and had that alternator, I would loosen the nut and see if the B+ guard comes off easily. Then you could dry fit the extension and see what you think. If you don't like it, you can put the guard back on and then the extension.
From what i can see, and not run out to the truck to verify, but seems theres enough room to dump the B+ installed plate and go with a "male" coupling nut. Thread ur on existing stud so that now, you have "room" to install new cables?
It looks like the red B+ guard on alt needs to be removed for the B+ extension to bolt on.
Can you remove this guard by just removing the nut on alt or is some other modification needing to be done to get the B+ extension to fit properly?
Originally Posted by Sous
@Hootr I don't remember for sure, but I believe I used a Dremel to trim down the protruding part of the B+ guard in order to make it flush all the way around. You might be able to remove the guard entirely by removing the nut, but I am not sure. There does appear to be enough stand off space between the extension mounting washer and the case of the alternator.
If I were doing it all over again and had that alternator, I would loosen the nut and see if the B+ guard comes off easily.
You don't want to loosen that B+ nut. Even if you had sockets whose walls were thin enough to fit between the insulator and the nut, you still wouldn't be able to remove the winged insulator.
The photo below shows the parts needing to be removed, and the tools that are helpful in removing them, in order to get the winged B+ insulator out from underneath the slip ring end frame.
I found out that you have to take the alt apart to remove the guard. Wasn't gonna do that. Ended up cutting the ears off the guard and also file down the B+ extension to get it to fit nicely. Alternator is in but I still have to cut cable to correct length and crimp some lugs on the cable. ran outta daylight. I don't get much time daylight left once I get home from work. I have the fuse block leaned over like Scoob5555, I took the straight lugs and bent them to a 45 so cable goes straight across the alt from fuse block. Work took me out of town so I'll have to wait till Saturday to finish. I'll post pictures when it's finished.
04-14-2019, 08:29 PM
WOWZA!
