to what point??

traction bars are to prevent spring rap... SD using 3,4 springs.. should not rap

aka the rotation of the differential..

 

I attached a camera to my frame and video taped my spring. Definitely have some pretty bad rap.

 

Ford's dont wrap?, ever drive your truck on sand or snow? It makes tracks like a bulldozer....little ripples as the rear is tweaking away

 

 

traction bars are a plus on a superduty....it definitely makes a difference.

becareful how they bolt to the frame....while some preload is good....too much negative preload is not

 

Can you post a video of this?

 

The true answer, it depends. Are they solid mount or with a shackle? Adding any lift block will make axle wrap worse since there is more leverage against the springs. Unless you know what you're doing best bet is to mimic a commercially made set. Most common problem usually is use of solid mounts and something breaks since the suspension will eventually bind.

 

 

That's where you are going wrong. I use dom for anything suspension related. Sure, structural steel pipe is strong; that debate has raged on for ages. I have yet to find threaded bungs for pipe. If you're going to use pipe, you need sch 80 for a 6 foot bar like you are looking to make. For a traction bar using pipe wouldn't be a crime but using those garage tractor links is. Use real rod ends, not the hitch links, they don't last.

 

 

D.O.M.
Drawn Over Mandrel

It's a type of tube that doesn't have a weld seam like pipe does. Much stronger for the weight than pipe.

 

 

Since you're wanting to use heim joints (the ends off a top link for a tractor 3-point hitch) for your ends, what are you going to install that will allow some "give"?

 

Not the way I have it set up right now. How would you make it so it has some give?