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Looking at a '56 F-100 service truck

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  #31  
Old 03-11-2018, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Y-Block Limey View Post
Has "the bug" got me already? Or is this perfectly normal behaviour for people like us?
Yes, yes it is normal. Embrace the madness.
Congrats on closing the deal! It's going to be a long couple of weeks waiting.
 
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  #32  
Old 03-11-2018, 09:35 AM
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Yes, perfectly normal. I once bought a radiator for a project I hadn't purchased yet because it was a good deal and available. Then I didn't end up with the truck afterall. It's been in a box on my shelf for more years than I care to admit. Congrats on your new truck. Cheers!
 
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:52 AM
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They look like a nice set of fenders and you're lucky to have someone do some shopping for you too..
 
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:50 PM
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There is very little activity on here that should be classified as normal , but for here you fit right in . Welcome to the disease support group .
 
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  #35  
Old 03-30-2018, 03:32 AM
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Well the day has finally arrived. And so has the truck! Now the fun can begin...


 
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  #36  
Old 03-30-2018, 06:18 AM
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Congratulations on your new baby! Looks great and let the fun begin. So what is the other old car in the garage, and how did your wife react to your new baby?
 
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:17 AM
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Hey, topmoo. Thanks! The old chariot (A.K.A Garage Queen) is a '68 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 coupe. Had that longer than my wife, so about 26 years.

The Mrs seems to be over the initial shock. Haha! I let her see it out of the windows rather than me mention it to her first. Got one of those "what have you just done" looks, but with just a hint of a smirk underneath. So it's all good. I think.

First trip was to the petrol station - #1 son riding shotgun. Terrified the life out of him. Haha!





Got back and removed the valve covers to see what state the heads are in, and was delighted to find a lovely wet and oily scene. So the ol' Y-Block seems healthy. Now to research the part numbers to find out what exactly I've got under the hood...

 
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:22 PM
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Congrats! What a happy day. Have fun. I'm looking forward to pics from your progress.
 
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  #39  
Old 03-31-2018, 03:24 AM
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Thanks, Abe It's an adventure!

First job on it was to remove that horrible mahoosive rear bumper. It looked like I was towing along one of those dirt road scraper/levellers. It weighed a ton, and was held by 4no 11/16" nuts, three of which were only finger tight, so it would probably have dropped off anyway, given time.



And having done that, it allowed me to get a look under the rear end. I wondered why the rear was so low - now I know. The rear spring hangers have been inverted. But it raises (no pun intended) a question:

I would expect the drop at the rear hangers to cause the nose of the differential to drop slightly (because you are pitching the axle slightly forward), but when I look at it, it is still significantly nose-up in relation to the prop shaft. Also, the truck vibrates like a mechanical tamper. Are these two facts related? I have read that wayward pinion angles can cause vibration.

Today's jobs include looking at the instruments. The idiot lights work, as does the high beam tell-tale. The temp gauge moves, but its rest position is at the hot end. Is that correct? It gradually moves towards the colder end as I get going. The fuel gauge appears to have no indicator needle at all! There's no speedo cable, so I wasn't expecting that to work.

Other jobs are mainly electrical. The blower doesn't blow on either setting. The first light switch position puts on the dipped beams. The second position is the same. This may be because the parking lights are now direction indicators (amber lamps inside). The headlamp units are GE sealed beams - so possibly originals - and don't have a separate marker light inside. The front fender-mounted direction indicators have been deleted. The wipers work, however the switch has two positions but the wipers move at the same rate regardless.

The engine is a C2AE, so a late '62-'64 (low performance) 292. I haven't found the head numbers yet, but I am expecting them to be C1TE. The 2bbl Holley seems to match that expectation. I also found a patch of blue paint on the block, which I wasn't expecting. I thought it would be yellow if anything.

I'm not convinced there's a thermostat fitted. And the coolant smells like antifreeze but looks like rusty soup, so that will be going soon and the thermostat looked at. Funnily enough, I found a box full of odd spare bits in the back box. It contained a load of engine gaskets, a thermostat (!), two modern-looking Grote rear lamp units with brackets, and assorted nuts and bolts.

There is some play in the steering. I'll have a go at dialling some out by box adjustment, but it's not too bad.

More news as it happens!

Cheers, Keith
 
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:31 AM
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OK, having been out for another run this afternoon, I've changed my mind. The vibration is I think due to the engine misfiring. It idles ok, but the faster you go, the more hesitant it becomes. And the warmer the engine gets, the worse the hesitancy gets.

There's a hefty bellow from the exhausts, but nothing of the characteristic Y-Block harmonic 'tune', therefore I'm coming to the opinion that it's not firing on all cylinders.

More investigation required...
 
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  #41  
Old 03-31-2018, 11:00 AM
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Just off the top of my head I would check to make sure the plug wires are correctly located . And yes pinion angle is very important . If your vibration is driveline related it should increase with speed and not change with engine speed ( different gears ) .
 
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  #42  
Old 03-31-2018, 02:07 PM
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Thanks, EBEAR. That makes sense. I'll check the leads, plugs, all the usual stuff.

The drivetrain thing should be easy enough to test - bowl along til it's vibrating the worst, then dip the clutch and let the motor drop to idle while still moving. If the vibration smoothes out then it's the motor.

I'll report back on Monday! Thanks again.
 
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  #43  
Old 04-02-2018, 12:02 PM
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Make sure to check that the plug wires are on the correct plugs . Quite often an engine will idle nicely but get progressively worse as rpm rises if plug wires are crossed or incorrectly placed .
 
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  #44  
Old 04-02-2018, 01:57 PM
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Today I checked the distributor, plug cables etc. The cables are in the right order in the distributor cap, the points set is opening and closing when turned, and I followed the cables to each plug to make sure they were where they should be. They are.

On Saturday when I first started the motor, I pulled the choke out full and gave the pedal 2 quick pumps, and the motor fired up instantly. Absolutely instantly. Today, I cranked and cranked it for ages before anything happened, and it just about ran. Any attempt to depress the throttle increased the hesitancy. It stalled a few times and took ages to creank over again. Eventually I had it (sort of) running for a few minutes. When it stopped, I checked the header pipes. Cylinders 3, 4 & 8 were clock cold. The others were hot. I pulled the plugs and they looked ok apart from being wet with fuel. A little sooty under the wet perhaps, but only a thin coating, not fouled up totally by any means. The gaps looked ok and consistent too.

I'm going to pull the rocker gear and check the valves for free operation, and also check the pushrods for straightness at the same time. I need to check if I'm getting the 'sticky valve syndrome' from being laid up for a while. More investigation tomorrow...

I also noticed that there are 2 wires going onto the input side of the ignition coil ballast resistor, and only 1 coming out to the coil. I suspect the 'I' solenoid wire is on the wrong end of the ballast, thus the coil never sees 12v when cranking. More investigaiton needed there too.

What I don't get is that it ran fairly well only 2 days ago. Beginner's luck???
 
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  #45  
Old 04-02-2018, 03:17 PM
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Your coil is six volts regardless, that's why the ballast resistor. One of those wires comes from the starter relay in order to give the six volt coil a shot of twelve volts while cranking. After the engine starts the six volt input resumes, but it is apparently wired wrong. Unless that lead is for something else.
I'll speculate that because the engine started so easily the first time, it may be just flooded now. Try starting without the choke and with the accelerator pedal fully depressed to clear it out.
 
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