I just pulled an axle shaft (tapered shaft, 28-spline) out of what I believe to be an "Early" Ford 9" RE under my 56 F100.

The bearing OD measures 3.150 (aka the "Big" one). The bearing feels good, not gritty. There's a bit of "wiggle" to the bearing outer race, but I'm not calibrated on how much of that is internal clearance vs. wear.

How much of a pain is it to get these bearings off the shaft? (I don't have a hydraulic press, to make things more complicated).

Interestingly, there were NO gaskets on either side of the flange/backing plate. The oil seal is inboard of the bearing and the bearing appears to be sealed itself.

SHOULD there be gaskets on the end flanges?

Also, the spot where the oil seal runs on the axle is a bit worn - I can feel a bit of a very subtle "groove" where the lip has been running. The "groove" area measures out at 1.503".

I'm rebuilding this due to a slow oil leak on one side - I want to get it back together the right way.

So,

1) gaskets? yes or no?
2) seal journal - is 1.503 within the service limit?
3) any advice on cleaning up the journal area without damaging it?
4) any recommendations on quality replacement parts? Currie? Mark Williams?

Bruce

 

To replace these bearings is the best option. The steel ring between the seal and the bearing has to come off first. Sometimes they come off with heat but I have had to cut some too. Dremel would do the trick for cutting now a days. Start with heat, propane torch should do it. A press is needed to pull the bearings but a dremel will cut them off. But it will take time. An old real gas station is machine shop can do the pressing for you.

Buy good bearings, Timken, SKF, ***, etc... cheap is bad and you will hate yourself in the morning ��

The seal area has a couple of ways to fix; seal sleeve, leave it, move seal position, remachine. In the the olden days we would install the seal deeper or less deep to find a new spot on the axle for it to ride on. We old clean the axle up with crocus cloth and figure out what to do. Today there are seal sleeves that can be slipped on to fully replace the spot on the axle.

No gaskets are needed as the bearing is a sealed unit that doesn’t use the axle oil for lube. The seal, seals it all in the rear end.

Check the vent to ale sure it’s open. As the rear heats up, with o vent it can heat up and pump oil past the seals. Make sure it’s clear and fill to the proper level.

Good luck!

 

If you cut or drill the retaining ring, you absolutely need to make sure you don't nick the axle! A lot of people drill or cut the ring halfway then use a chisel to crack it, it will slide off. (and if you use a chisel, wrap the axle with decently heavy sheet metal in case the chisel slips)

Since you need a press to install the new ring and bearing, it's easier to just take it to a shop or dealer to have it all done.

 

great info, thanks for clarifying the gasket situation - I expected to see gaskets when I took it apart, so was a bit confused for a minute.

I think I'm going to pull the other side and then find a decent shop to press them off and back on.

If anyone knows someone in the San Francisco Bay Area with a press and some talent, let me know!

 

Anyone know if a 12-ton press will do the job? How about a 20-ton?

Pondering just buying a POS from Horror Fright and doing it myself. You know, because, tools.

 

I put gaskets on mine but then it had some already in it. But really not needed. I had the shop put new bearings and retainer ring on ,worth the cost. Good Luck.Oh ! and I love the new gears no more 32 busting your ear drums.

 

Yes a 12-Ton will take them off and on. If you do it yourself be sure to put the mounting plate on before you press on the bearing and sleeve. Don’t ask

 

Cool! Thanks. Now if I only had floorspace for the press! I'm guessing it might end up out in the yard...

And thanks for the advice about the plate. I've worked with me before, so I might be familiar with mistakes like that...

 

Along with your Press, you'll also need a Bearing Splitter like this-

 

You need a press with a REALLY tall frame. Just take it to a shop, slap down the plastic and call it done!

 

Make sure to grease the seal and seal surface area of the axle upon reassembly to prevent premature seal failure. A little wobble is normal as they are a roller bearing.

If that was mine and is as described I would replace the seals and polish the mating area on the axles with 200-400 grit, grease the seals and axles seal area and reassemble. Making sure the vent is clear is great advice but based on the rust on the axle I would say that your vent is clear. You can always clean and paint the non bearing and seal area, it is considered overkill by many but it prevents rust like you see on yours, but then again you can always just put a light coat of grease on it to do the same thing.

 

I've used this guy...it was a few years ago, & he was pretty good: Victory Automotive Machine

I had him balance the rotating assembly for an engine that I was building. He did a great job. According to the website he is still there. That is in South San Jose, so it is a little drive for you from Menlo Park.

This shop might be a better bet: Home

He helped me out with my 9", and Santa Clara is a little closer for you. The odd thing was that he didn't even crack a smile when I suggested that his company name would lend itself to some great t-shirt designs.

Dan

 

Thanks for all the great advice guys - particularly the note about greasing things up during reassembly.

And Old_Dan, thanks for the local leads - that's awesome. Rearend Specialities seems like a place I should know about. And yes, they need a t-shirt in the gift shop...could probably make more money with that than with bearings and gears.

 

If you make a trip to the mountains I have a complete shop and could help you out on an afternoon. Just brings the parts and your favorite drink. I used to do diffs at a speed shop in San Jose back in the day

 

Any auto parts store w/a machine shop can do this.